If so, is there a way to prevent the problem, is there a way to know if the final drive is about to fail? Thanks
Techincally, you still torque the RCR bushings but I dont think its very critical. Although you still need a torque wrench for the lock nut. When you get the bushings, the ID is machined slight undersize by a few .001" or so. You need to sand the ID down until you get the right fit. The serviceablilty on a roadside repair comes into place where the OEM bearings fall out in pieces. Its been common for the OEM bearings to be nothing more than a handfull of rollers once worn, and common after sever re-torquings. Once the bearing comes out in pieces, if you have take the rear end off on the side of the road, it aint going anywhere unless you have a new set. The bushing will always be one piece. one of the few instances a bushing is better than a bearing. I have personally considered making my own set. The RCR are nothing more than a simple machined cone of oilite SAE 660 bearing bronze and I work in a machine shop.h96669 said:I'm curious here ,have not ordered any OEM yet....! Do you need a torque wrench to install the Rubberchicken product? From their website they mention easy roadside repairs.For the OEM you need a torque wrench that gives accurate reading for low Nm. I do not have one yet.....but need it for my front swingarm pivot bearings. I could easily borrow one for that, and that is not a job you have to redo/recheck often.
The rear drive pivots however should be checked regularly if they are OEM so that is why I was thinking of buying the torque wrench. If I do not need it for the aftermarket bushings, then I won't buy one and put the $$$ somewhere else, like Ohlins, Gas and Ice Cream....! I already own 3 Torque Wrenches.....none suitable for "That" job! :teeth
Thanks! :thumb:
Did research all that after my last post, same conclusions, but I lost my machinist to alcohol abuse....! Looks like they are using something pretty standard for the bearing race, and I know how much cheaper those can be if you go to a bearing supplier, cuts the price by 60% on some steering head bearings vs OEM. :teethcali_beemer said:Techincally, you still torque the RCR bushings but I dont think its very critical. Although you still need a torque wrench for the lock nut. When you get the bushings, the ID is machined slight undersize by a few .001" or so. You need to sand the ID down until you get the right fit. The serviceablilty on a roadside repair comes into place where the OEM bearings fall out in pieces. Its been common for the OEM bearings to be nothing more than a handfull of rollers once worn, and common after sever re-torquings. Once the bearing comes out in pieces, if you have take the rear end off on the side of the road, it aint going anywhere unless you have a new set. The bushing will always be one piece. one of the few instances a bushing is better than a bearing. I have personally considered making my own set. The RCR are nothing more than a simple machined cone of oilite SAE 660 bearing bronze and I work in a machine shop.
Do tell! Really? :rotf: Never happens to me...... :teethh96669 said:But I'll go check with them funny guys on ADVriders....only problem is that I get lost for hours into some of the threads out there.....! :bmw:
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GriderPirate said:Do tell! Really? :rotf: Never happens to me...... :teeth
-CRASH- said:If they don't fail ...
No need to adjust
Consistent wheel base/geometry
Less likely to to take a rock or incur damage (I had a rock go right through a belt once)
I dunno, there are more advantages (and disadvantages too) but differentials have been pretty effective on cars and trucks for years and I do know belts and chains were tried on those and found to have significant drawbacks.
The $64,000 question ... why were the drive units notoriously so bullet proof until the past decade or so and why do the Japanese drive shaft units hold up better? I put 185,000 on a 1984 Yamaha Venture Royal and did nothing more than change the oil in the drive train every 25,000 miles.