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2003 K1200rs Test Ride Questions

5K views 21 replies 5 participants last post by  helmetride 
#1 ·
I'm looking for a 2000ish K1200rs I'm hooked after test riding one this week. The Brick engine is just fantastic, turbine like power, but is it really necessary for all those gears, it seems first, second and third are redundant. The owner was very generous, letting me ride it on California Hwy 1 up around Moro Bay, he said take it up to Big Sur, I did go further than I intended, what a difference from my current Buell XB9s. A couple of things bothered me about this bike was that I could feel a knock in the rear suspension when riding slowly on the patched up city streets, I mentioned it to the owner (2nd owner) he knew of it but said it's always been that way and normal, would anyone have experience with that? Also when first starting the bike the red ABS light continued to flash and the owner said, "once I start riding it would go off, (which it did) and that was normal, they all do that", is that true? The bike had 19,600 miles on it and he said the valve adjustment interval was 30,000 miles but what I've seen on this forum is that it's 20,000 miles, can someone confirm that and what is the cost for the valve adjustment. Cosmetically the bike looked pretty good some minor scratches on one side where it must have tipped over looks like it could be touched up but I've never done much of that. I think the bike has been a bit neglected maintenance wise as far as flushing brake fluids and such. I've ordered the Clymer Manual to learn more about the bike but are there any other recommended books, I'm an engineer and love to get into the technical details of the engine and drivetrain. I'll still be looking for a cleaner example and know of some of the typical things to look for, leaks from the cam chain cover and driveshaft, really hard to inspect though with the cowling on and any leaks in general. I know a new clutch is expensive $2,000 and replacing shocks are expensive. Also look for plastic fuel line quick disconnect. Has someone put together a simple checklist that would be handy to inspect future bikes? I want to avoid purchasing a bucket of expensive problems.
Thank you in advance for your help
Dave.
 
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#4 ·
My 2002 K1200RS has the exact same feeling in the rear suspension at low speed when I first start riding it. More noticeable on rougher/grooved surfaces. Really interesting feeling when you tap the brakes at those speeds. This is my first mono swing arm rear suspension.
The ABS Light is normal. So far I seem to be getting 43 miles per gallon. Little less when I am getting on it on back roads :rotf:
Oh, if you buy the beast check for the oil leak right hand side where the transmission mates to the engine. Other than that I don't regret buying mine 4 months and 965 miles ago.
 
#5 ·
Um... Try starting off from a light in second or third. Not really redundant, are they? Once you get to know the bike, you'll understand the differences.

If the stock suspension bothers you, Öhlin shocks are your friend. Properly set up, the difference is like night and day. Improperly set up... don't do it.

Clymer does a good job. IF you can get the BMW manual, you'll find they don't always overlap. Past that (the owner's manuals), use common sense.

BTW, put away your engineer's hat when riding. Overthinking will get you into trouble in a New York minute.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Bought a 2001 K1200RS Silver/Blue

Thank you everyone for the advice it gave me the confidence to buy a 2001 Silver/Blue K1200RS (20K miles/$4,600). The bike is completely stock, couldn't find any leaks anywhere, the only flaw is a tear in the seat. Purchased the bike from the Nichols Sport Bikes shop owner, Jon Nichols, he doesn't really sell motorcycles he inherited it from a family member. He specializes in Ducati's but works on all motorcycles, he's a fantastic guy and I would recommend his shop if you get stuck in San Jose. He also machines parts for aerospace companies. He put on brand new Dunlop tires, new battery and changed all the fluids.

So, since I flew up to look at the bike with a one way ticket my only option was to ride the bike home which was outrageous going down Hwy 1 to Calabasas (Malibu area), 390 miles and 7.5 hours in the saddle, which did get a bit painful after a couple hundred miles. In San Luis Obispo started getting cold and dark so put on a one piece riding suit which added just enough extra cushion to make the seat tolerable. Needless to say I've ordered a new Sargent seat. The heated grips are really nice!

What a machine! The engine is like a jet engine, I think the vibration is very similar. Passing strings of cars behind slow RV's was effortless, it didn't seem to care whether it was in 5th or 6th. Cornering on Hwy-1 also reminded me of flying an airplane just rolling into the turn, once you have enough bank release the pressure, need a little more add a little pressure, just a smooth even roll rate. The bike is so stable in the turns and at high speed, you feel secure and confident. I’m so glad I bought it! Thank you guys for all your advice!
 

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#8 ·
Congrats on the new bike! Too bad about the Sargent, though. Better to spend the money on having the stock seat refurbished (new cover and foam). The Sargent makes it harder to shift your weight around in tighter turns (cupped seat surface) and forces your legs apart at stops (wider than stock towards the front or tank end) - not a lot of fun. Depending on your inseam, maybe making it hard to flat-foot while stopped. Plan B is to chase down a heated GT seat (100% plug and play for the mount - need to be creative about the power to the seat.).

Stick with firm foam. It won't seem all that great at first, but will slowly mold itself to your shape. Weight shift and flat-footing is much easier.
 
#11 ·
Here's some pics of one of the fuel line disconnects, looks like half is metal and half plastic. I guess it needs to be replaced? Do you only need to remove the right fairing to get to both quick disconnects. Any threads on removing the fairings?

Thanks in advance
Dutchy
Change the QD's!!! They're not an "if they fail" but "when they fail" item. Failure can be ugly - spilled gas, hot pipes... you get the idea. Pirate's Lair is a good QD source.

Threads? As in screws holding the tupperware? Yew betcha, and you'll need a 25 Torx driver to spin them. Be very careful about noting which screws came from where. Take a large hunk of cardboard, make a very rough sketch of each part of tupperware, and stuff each screw into the diagram, so you know what goes where.
 
#14 ·
K&N Air Filter?

Since I'll be taking off all the fairings to change out the quick disconnects I'm thinking of changing out the air filter and fuel filter. Seems like the K&N filter is not much more than the stock paper filter is that worth doing? Does the K&N cause any problems with the mass air sensor or anything with the fuel injection system as it's saturated in oil?
Thanks,
Dutchy
 
#15 ·
Save your money. Unless you're racing, and willing to pay for frequent filter changes, the OEM filter is just fine. KISS applies to filters as well as most of life. :)
 
#19 ·
Yes, you can charge the battery using the accessory outlet. I have the battery "pig tail" lead that fits the BMW socket and attaches to a standard trickle charger. I've always charged the battery that way. Easy-peasy as they say. Also, bikes like ours with the servo assist brake can be hard on the battery, so it needs to be kept in good condition. Enjoy the ride.
 
#21 ·
??? Sure, the servo has a motor, but "hard on the battery"? I've never seen the bike show any signs of an unhappy battery thanks to braking. Even while using my heated liner.
 
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