Skinny on the Cam chain guard - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
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Skinny on the Cam chain guard

Ok so the newer style tensioner is old news by now, so if ya haven't yet its time to get that done, both old and new are hydrolic but the new has holes in the mounting plate and the cap that bolts where the old plate did acts as a reservior. The deal with the "chaintooth jump guard", is pretty simple, remove clutch/crankend cover and it snaps into place over the existing guard casted into the case then held in place with the cover, adding additional protection to keep the chain from skipping a tooth should something cause it to. I should have done all of this myself, but the other day on the phone with the dealer this was new as of last month and the service bulletin was not all that clear as to what held the guard in place so I opted to pay and watch this time, education comes with a tuition price and this one was about two and a half hrs. shop time on the first go, but its only about an hour and a half job, this guy is a clean freak, after finishing he was back there with a can of cleaner in one hand and a fresh micro-fiber cloth in the other removeing any trace he'd been there. They did it on saturday, a good job while I waited so I paid cash and thanked them. The parts, gastet, tensioner kit, guard and one time screws etc. run about two bills plus labor, 400 dallars for the peace of mind that I've done all that can be to this point to prevent cam chain/related failures.
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post #2 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 9:44 pm
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Was this on a 1200 or a 1300? Are either of these upgrades already done on the 13s, or ?

Thanks,

GTRider
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post #3 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 10:15 pm
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It's the same part for both 12 and 13's, and no it's not on the 13's either as far as I know. It MAY BE on the newest 13's sitting around but I don't think so. It's for all the K44 engines.

While this is a good addition to one of the issues affecting these engine designs, it doesn't provide a guaranteed solution to the top end flying apart. That would require a complete redesign of the flange / cam sprocket. But it's a $25 dollar part and well worth installing. You will need to remove the clutch and replace the bolts and oil so figure on $100 -150 bucks or so to do it yourself.

There's good info here: New timing chain piece?

Part # is 11318526932



It's # 17 in that view.

There was some talk of the part not being released in the US so this is great verification that it has been. Thanks Krunch!

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post #4 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 10:30 pm
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Sure, now you post all this, including pics and part numbers, when I needed this info this morning.

Just picked up a K13GT with an 02/09 build date, so this part will go on at the next oil change.

Thanks for the info.

Ken
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post #5 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 10:31 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krunch
....The parts, gasket, tensioner kit, guard and one time screws etc. run about two bills plus labor, 400 dollars for the peace of mind that I've done all that can be to this point to prevent cam chain/related failures.
So I gather if you do it yourself and have the newest oil tensioner already installed, then all you need are the case cover screws (I wonder about that too?), the case cover gasket, and the cam chain gizmo?

Any reason to pull the valve cover itself or is all this stuff done from the right side?

__________________________________________________ _
added:
So this is what I come up with if you DIY.

11147727974 GASKET 1 @ $25.43 (per Krunch cost)
11137676132 ISA SCREW - M6X25 17 @ $1.80 ea. ($30.60)
11147678478 ISA SCREW - M6X20 3 @ $2.00 ea. ($6.00)
11318526932 Chain tooth jump guard 1 @ $26.33

Total Parts $88.36 (in USA)


Mack

Last edited by GMack; Mar 5th, 2011 at 10:53 pm.
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post #6 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 11:52 pm
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Mack, I read a couple of threads on this over at the i-bmw forum. No valve cover removal needed. But what I'm not clear on is how the damn thing actually attaches. Assuming it must bolt on some how. The dealers are just getting this info. As usual we tend to notify our dealers and techs of anything new.

And yes, next oil change too.

Here's a good thread: http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?...oth+jump+guard

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post #7 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 12:43 am
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Timing Chain Guard

Krunch,

What dealer did the job for you?

Thanks, Rodney

1983 HONDA CX650 TURBO
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post #8 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 4:39 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_W
It's the same part for both 12 and 13's, and no it's not on the 13's either as far as I know. It MAY BE on the newest 13's sitting around but I don't think so. It's for all the K44 engines.

While this is a good addition to one of the issues affecting these engine designs, it doesn't provide a guaranteed solution to the top end flying apart. That would require a complete redesign of the flange / cam sprocket. But it's a $25 dollar part and well worth installing. You will need to remove the clutch and replace the bolts and oil so figure on $100 -150 bucks or so to do it yourself.

There's good info here: New timing chain piece?

Part # is 11318526932



It's # 17 in that view.

There was some talk of the part not being released in the US so this is great verification that it has been. Thanks Krunch!
Be carefull with your words Robert, removal of the clutch is not necessary, just the cover, and there wasen't enough oil lost to need to add any let alone a complete change. Keep in mind that I stood there and watched a qualified tech so I'am passing on the for real deal.
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post #9 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 4:49 am Thread Starter
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Dealer

Quote:
Originally Posted by RODCAYLOR
Krunch,

What dealer did the job for you?

Thanks, Rodney
Performance Plus, memphis TN. Marvin is the service writer/qualified tech, Tracy Williams is the go to man in the shop. 06' GT 48,000 As a welder in a machine shop I also work with tools for a liveing and could see that he treats each machine like its his as I do.
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post #10 of 240 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 5:02 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMack
So I gather if you do it yourself and have the newest oil tensioner already installed, then all you need are the case cover screws (I wonder about that too?), the case cover gasket, and the cam chain gizmo?

Any reason to pull the valve cover itself or is all this stuff done from the right side?

__________________________________________________ _
added:
So this is what I come up with if you DIY.

11147727974 GASKET 1 @ $25.43 (per Krunch cost)
11137676132 ISA SCREW - M6X25 17 @ $1.80 ea. ($30.60)
11147678478 ISA SCREW - M6X20 3 @ $2.00 ea. ($6.00)
11318526932 Chain tooth jump guard 1 @ $26.33

Total Parts $88.36 (in USA)


Mack
The case cover screws are an aluminum alloy and only able to be torqued one time, so they say, don't forget the gasket, and especially check the oilpump chain slack, if your bike has never been opened up before, there will be too much slack in this chain but adjusting the guide takes care of that.This was done when I had the clutch basket spwapped under warranty, and found to be still good this time around. I ordered the chain to have on hand this time just in case but it was not necessary. They were nice enough to restock it for me so I did not have to pay the 40 dallars extra.According to my reciept the above looks right. All that has to come off are the fairing panel the insulation piece and the clutch cover, or thats what I saw anyway, I stuck my head back there every thirty minutes or so and was fortunate that this guy likes the customer involvment and we had a good conversation afterwards. He stated that so far those oilpump chains only need the slack adjustment once, fo far anyway and he'd been into about a dozen of these for clutch work.

Last edited by Krunch; Mar 6th, 2011 at 5:22 am.
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