Originally Posted by KR-Rider
I noticed that there web site has one listed for the 1000rr. Is it the same for the k1200 series?
They are different.
The one they showed me for the S1000RR is a screw-in thing like some oil sender unit. The K-44 engined (1200/1300cc) bikes use a flat flange-mount with two really odd external Torx screws (where my 1/4" 6-point socket on a 1/4" swivel worked really well) to hold the assembly down. I was very surprised they had one for the S1000RR as I never heard of a cam chain jump on that engine on any of the S-forum boards since I also own one. Guess some racers are "old school" still and they prefer manual adjusters, or maybe they just don't want any excess friction caused by a hydraulic tensioner? The APE sales guy said they were contacted by some S1000RR race group so they made them for that bike. They are blister-pack wrapped (on a hanging cardboard thing) so they can be sold at dealers I guess.
No telling if they (i.e. APE Racing in Rosamond, CA) will make them for sale for the K-44 series. That's their decision, but calling them and asking them for the unit couldn't hurt. I've just packaged up all the sketches and photos and will send it off Monday to them.
All I can say is it really fires up quietly now and without the inconstant clattering it had before. I don't know how much pressure remains on that plunger affair that BMW currently uses, but I could see it loosening or maybe getting kicked back which allows the jump and sundry expenses to occur. I'm still not 100% convinced that plastic guard will keep the chain on the crank sprocket. Just seems too flimsy to me and steel chain on plastic with no backing (ergo, flimsy) cannot be good. Least I've maybe covered two bases now with both
the BMW chain guard addition and the APE tensioner too. There's no way that guard could get kicked back and allow for excess slack in the chain now as there is no spring nor hydraulics behind it.
My only wish is to maybe have a bit more adjustment length, maybe 1/4" more would be sufficient as it's almost 2" extended now from tip to bottom of the base plate. It isn't at full length yet, but maybe one or two turns more and I'd be out of adjustment room. Much longer and it would be hard to angle it int there due to the frame though. Their CNC machinist I spoke to would like more thread meat on the flange plate - and they could do that too as there is room in the engine cavity stepped bore. For now, I'll leave it on and see how it goes.
Too bad I can't post the photos due to the 5MB photo limits imposed on this site as you could see what it looks like and how much further I have to go. Guess in nearly 2,500 posts, I ate up my 5MB bandwidth somehow.
Anyway, here's to hoping I won't have to mess with it again . . . I hope.