Doug, I've got a 2008 model as well and the drain plug is about at the 5 o'clock mark when you're looking at the final drive straight on (left side of bike). In fact, to get at my drain plug I remove the rear caliper so I have plenty of room.

Conversely, the fill plug is on the right side of the GT and requires removal of the rear tire to get at. This fill plug is at the 1 o'clock position on mine.

When I first took delivery I couldn't find the drain plug and in a panic started a thread on this site only to look like a fool (search final drive and I'll bet you'll see it). Put your bike on the center stand and get down on the floor for a look.

I change my final drive fluid with every oil change and let it drain overnight. Also give the rear rotor a spin to get as much out as possible. The freshness of the gear oil won't affect a final drive failure but it imparts piece of mind. Plus, it does allow you to see if there are shavings in the oil which will point to future problems.

The correct amount is 180ml as well.

 

I'll add that I send my final drive oil to Blackstone Labs for piece of mind. If it comes back with any bearing metal levels increase, then I'll worry and watch it more. So far, I've been using Amsoil gear oil in the final drive (and their motorcycle engine oil too) and the reports have been good so far. They also store the reports online so you can access them anytime for comparisons, and in case some dealer gets huffy and a warranty issue arises about oil changes or whatever, and even if you have after-warranty insurance as some are want to do. Not bad piece of mind for about $23.

I do it on my BMW S1000RR bike too and I got a very clean report on it since some of those engines have been blowing up due to soft cams or some such nonsense in my bike's build era. No bearing or heavy metals yet and I hope it stays that way.

Oh, I'd also install the manual cam chain tensioner to and get rid of that BMW hydraulic and spring-loaded thing BMW put in the bike. Lose a bit of oil pressure in it, or if its check-valve faults, and you're bike is looking at a $3,000-$7,000 bill for a valve-to-piston strike. See the lengthy thread about the APE tensioner and draw you own conclusions.


Mack

 

Doug, I've got a 2008 model as well and the drain plug is about at the 5 o'clock mark when you're looking at the final drive straight on (left side of bike).

Correcting myself here: The drain plug on my 2008 model is at the 7 o'clock position. Apologies. Hopefully the pic will clear up any confusion.

Does your final drive look like this?

 

On the question of the oil volume, BMW revised the capacity for all years to 180cc. The reason being that the final drives are not vented, so as they get warm in use, particularly on long extended runs in hot temps, the pressure build up in the drive causes the seals to fail, this in turn leads to loss of oil and then failure of the bearings etc. By reducing the oil level, the air space is increased which helps to reduce the pressure build up. The slightly reduced oil level does not impair the lubrication of the unit. It is also important to use the correct grade of oil which is 75w-90. Heavier oil will get picked up by the gears more and not be able to flow back to the bearing sufficiently to keep it adequatly lubricated.

 

My final drive does NOT look like that! :yeow:

The final drive drain bolt is at 3:00 looking from the side. The build date is 09/07. Do I have a Frankenbike? :yeow: :yeow:

 

No, you just have an early-build 2008 bike. The 2006-2007 and some 2008 bikes had the "lifetime fill" final drives, with a factory fill plug at the 3 o'clock position and no drain plug.

BMW (and some frustrated riders) found that there was occasionally some contamination and manufacturing swarf (small metal bits leftover from machining) left in the drives by the subcontractor who built them, which could eventually cause the large main bearing and seals to fail.

BMW added a 600-mile FD fluid change to their maintenance schedule to help combat this problem, and eventually recommended regular fluid changes on the final drives. Many of us simply change the FD oil when we change the engine oil at 6,000 miles, and carefully inspect the magnetic drain/fill plug for any signs of metallic contamination.

To change the oil in these early final drives requires unhooking the drive from the Paralever upper torque arm and rotating it down 90° so it can drain. Then it is rotated back up and filled back through the same 3 o'clock hole.

In mid-2008, BMW changed to the "new" style drive, with the drain hole moved down to the 7 o'clock position.

Draining these FD's is much easier as the FD stays in place, although some find it easier to remove the rear brake caliper to get it out of the way. These FD's are filled through the wheel speed sensor hole, located on the back side (wheel side) of the FD at the 3 o'clock position.

On the 2009-2010 K13 bikes, there was an upper fill hole added, which is located on the back side of the FD at the 12 o'clock position. There were also changes made to the input shaft bearing to minimize those types of failures.

Another issue that we (and BMW) have discovered is that because these drives were originally designed to be "sealed for life", there was no vent designed into them. So it is possible to build up some pressure inside the FD, causing the smaller outer seal to leak. This is seen as some weeping of fluid on the outside of the FD near the outer seal cover (black plastic ring). If this is caught early, then the seal can be replaced quite easily. If it goes too long and the fluid gets too low, then bearing damage may occur.

BMW's response to this was to reduce the final drive fill amount from 230mL to 180mL to help reduce the pressure build up. This change applies to all of these type of final drives, regardless of year built.

So my recommendation is to do the initial 600-mile FD fluid change (also at 100 miles if you're paranoid ) and then change it every 6,000 miles, inspecting the drain plug each time, and also making sure that the small outer seal is clean and dry.

Then just ride it, and have fun. :tim

Hope that helps clear things up.

 

Got it -- thanks.

 

Wonder why BMW left the vent off the GT's? My 1996' RTL had one and it never caused me any grief in almost 100K miles. Some saw oil stains around it so it had to be venting something. Then they leave it off and blow seals in later models?

They probably bring it back as they did the float instead of the fuel strip in the S1000RR and K1600GT.


Mack

 

The newer final drives were sealed due to BMW's grand vision of a lifetime fill (given that the oil would be in there a long time they probably didn't want any external contaminants such as dust or moisture to get in.) Of course now that they've gone to conventional oil replacement intervals one does wonder why they didn't add a vent in the later models when they also added the bottom drain hole.

 

one does wonder why they didn't add a vent in the later models when they also added the bottom drain hole.

Because at the time, they were more worried about failing bearings, and hadn't yet realized that they needed the vent to avoid seal leakages . . .

 

Meese and everyone else has done a great job summarizing the main points.

My 2007 K1200GT, built in April 2007, has the 3 o'clock drain plug. For my bike, the 2009 BMW repair manual DVD (RepRom) says that I should disengage the final drive and hinge it so the plug faces down for draining, then refill it through the speed sensor hole on the wheel side.

Nobody has commented yet that:

* The RepRom says that you should lube the driveshaft splines when you change the final drive oil.

* It is a good idea to have a set of o-rings on hand for the final drive drain plug and the speed sensor. They cost only a couple dollars each from the dealer. Some of my friends don't bother to replace them unless there is visible damage. Others replace them every time. Be sure you have the correct o-rings for your particular final drive type - they differ in size and color.

* Be very careful about how the speed sensor and brake wear sensor wires are routed. Take notes or photos before you remove them. They can be easily damaged, or even cut if you improperly route them when you put them back.

* A large 60 ml syringe and matching plastic tube makes the fill job much easier. Three syringes yields the correct 180 ml of final drive oil. Be sure you take the oil in the plastic tube into account as you measure. (I measure with oil in the tube, and then make sure that same amount is still in the tube after "injecting" the 60 ml of oil from the syringe.)

 

I've heard that the latest version now includes a vent, but have not looked at them to confirm if they do.

 

Just to resurrect an old thread...

I've change the final drive oil in my bike today (a 2008 K1200GT) while doing the engine oil and filter. The final drive has the drain plug at the bottom. (Makes me wonder whether I should drop the unit and grease the shaft splines as a job in its own right.)

However, I didn't fill the final drive through the speed sensor hole. With the rear wheel removed, and looking at the final drive unit from the right hand side (i.e. where the wheel would have been had I not removed it) there is what seems to be purpose designed filler plug at the top of the unit. Saves removing the speed sensor, which always makes me feel a tiny bit nervous in case it upsets the sensor. The fill plug has a replaceable crush washer fitted, suggesting that's what it is for, perhaps.

I put 220 cl of oil in (which is what Reprom told me to do), meticulously measured out with a syringe. I wish I'd have read this first, though I haven't experienced any problems with using the larger volume.

(It goes without saying that after three washes with Swarfega and soap, and a soak in the bath, my hands still stink of gear oil!)

 

BMW reduced the fill requirements to 180 ml (see post #7) from 220 ml
ml = milliliters, cl = centiliters
You need to double check what you put in, your post says 220 cl which is 10 times the old amount required 220 ml it should have been 22 cl

 

BMW reduced the fill requirements to 180 ml (see post #7) from 220 ml
ml = milliliters, cl = centiliters
You need to double check what you put in, your post says 220 cl which is 10 times the old amount required 220 ml it should have been 22 cl

Robin,

Don't worry, you'll never be able to get 10 times the old amount into that FD. You probably meant cc (cubic centimetres) with 1 cc being equal in volume to 1 ml. But the correct volume is actually 180 ml, so you'll have to draw out 40ml.

 

Robin,

Don't worry, you'll never be able to get 10 times the old amount into that FD. You probably meant cc (cubic centimetres) with 1 cc being equal in volume to 1 ml. But the correct volume is actually 180 ml, so you'll have to draw out 40ml.

Question...

Are you absolutely sure that it's 180ml for the newer version FD? As Robin mentions, he has the 6 o'clock drain plug and 12 o'clock filler plug. This is the latest version FD part (# 33118529907) not the " 3 o'clock" FD.

I just had the latest version installed a month or so ago and when I drained it into a measuring jar about 210ml came out, which is exactly how much I returned to the FD.

I'm not trying to be difficult, but I think before volumes are discussed, it should be understood which FD version we're looking at. While I too have seen the 180ml tech note, I am going with what was in the brand new unit. Anyone think that's a bad idea?

Cheers

 

180ml is correct for all the K12/13GT final drives, as per BMW Service Bulletin.

They added a drain plug, but didn't change the internal volume of the final drive.

Note that some dealer techs still just put in the old volume of fluid . . .

 

Hi all, I have a 2007 K1200GT. Trying to change the final drive oil myself and the drive won’t swing down the full 90 degrees.

There are plenty of videos of bimmers with drives in the right side showing that the splines disconnect from the universal joint to allow for this, but mine don’t do that. I’ve lubed the splines and still no disconnect.

Am I doing something wrong?

 

You're not being forceful enough. You need to hold the shaft while pulling the right angle gearbox down in a quick snap.
There is a sweet spot where it easily separates.
rotate the shaft with the disc as well

 

they do stick on the splines....

there was also a discussion on a circlip to stop it falling out the gearbox end - seems some think they should have it both ends - and whilst there's a groove all the experts said its not meant to have it - to get the gearbox end to release you have to pop it off with a screw driver, to get the circlip to fold in so the shaft slips passed

bikes with seized splines seem to fail the drive shaft and the bevel early - thinking the other day I think coz the float allowing the shaft to expand and contract with heat and move with the suspension doesn't happen, and then it loads things up in ways its not meant to...

re-assembly is meant to be with a specific grease - and as of 2022 and a new one this year 2024 BWM have introduced a service check for worn driveshafts as people's legs keep falling off - you are in luck I started pulling a list of fun just last night see red text below

BMW Motorcycle	SIB 12 01 22	CE 04 READINESS TO DRIVE CANNOT BE ESTABLISHED
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 17 01 22	SERVICE ACTION: INSPECT AND MODIFY OPTIONAL ACCESSORY COOLER GUARD	S1000 option cooler guard rubs on the cooler and wrecks it - nice design !
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 21 01 22	CLUTCH NOISES WHEN DRIVING OFF FROM A STANDSTILL
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 31 01 22	UPDATE: Recall 17V-438: Fixed Fork Tube	GS1200 14 to 17, forks still falling off - mk4 joke stanchions now out
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 01 22	RECALL 22V-023: REPLACE REAR LINK STRUT
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 46 01 22	TURN INDICATOR HOLDER LOOSE
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 62 01 22	FAULT "TOTAL DISTANCE IS DIFFERENT" STORED	I-Level K001-21-07-510 or newer, fault Resolution will be released with I-Level K001-22-07-500,
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 63 01 22	Info - K5X Led Headlight	budget trash got glow worm lights during covid - hard luck no free OEM LEDs
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 71 01 22	SERVICE ACTION: REPLACE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION LABEL
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 00 02 22	Aftermarket Product Warning
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 71 02 22	SERVICE ACTION: REPLACE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION LABEL (K34)
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 11 02 22	RECALL 22V-752: REPLACE CLUTCH COVER SCREWS
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 51 02 22	SERVICE ACTION: OPTIONAL ACCESSORY MIRRORS
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 02 22	Swingarm Drain Retrofit and Drive Shaft Check	Rust and filth stop the driveshaft moving on its splines causing it to wear (see further update SIB 16 03 23)
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 11 03 22	Replace Intake Camshaft	S1000 had forgotten how to make good camshafts - have a new one and hope
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 03 22	RE-LUBRICATE THE DRIVESHAFT TAPER SPLINE
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 03 22	SERVICE ACTION: CHECK WIRING HARNESS CONNECTORS	MY 21 22 GS1250 loom faulty on DME plugs
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 05 22	STOP SALE - SOFTWARE UPDATE - ANGULAR RATE SENSOR	Most affected, buggy software various safety features don't work, update software I-Level K001-22-07-506 or newer
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 06 22	RECALL 22V-672: REPLACE HORN MOUNTING SCREW
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 23 01 23	RECALL: REPROGRAM R 1250 GS, GS ADVENTURE, AND RTP MODELS	GS1250 aggressive riding can break input shaft on the gearbox, nannies updated from I level K001-22-11-501 or newer
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 31 01 23	Apparent Leak Front Fork Cap	S1000 forks caps leak - wipe it off
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 32 01 23	Milled Handbrake Lever Pivot	S1000 idiots with crappy option levers, can find they snap off
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 34 01 23	Front Wheel Lift-Off Detection	S1000 buggy software anti wheelie forgets to work now and then, update I-Level
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 46 01 23	Check Swingarm Torque	R1250 models - we forgot to do up the right hand swinging arm bearing
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 01 23	Starter Motor Does Not Turn, R 1250 Models	R1250 models - Nasty exide batteries that didn't work - fit a new one
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 62 01 23	TFT Software Update	R1250 "224 Drive modes Pro" left off build - update to I-level K001-23-07-500
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 16 02 23	Service Solution Fuel Reserve Indicator Light Permanently Illuminated	fuel reserve indicator is permanently illuminated and will not go out due to a wrong calculation in the Basic Module Control Unit - perform battery reset (15 mins)
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 02 23	K 1600 ESA Software Update	K1600 cluster shows wrong Amber "carry on" colour on cluster when the rear shock is falling off - update to I level K001-23-07-500 or higher
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 34 02 23	Wheel Speed Sensor Fault Indicators	S1000 rattly engine causes ABS sensors to fake errors, bodge up software to hide it with I-level 20-03-500
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 02 23	Service Solution: C-Evolution will not start	Dead battery
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 13 03 23	DISA Errors 0x3A14C2 and 0x3A14C5	fake errors - Any model with DISA servomotor - update I-Level K001 22-07-511 and newer
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 16 03 23	Service Solution: Fuel Pump Faults	GS1250 fake fuel pump errors and limp mode, update I-Level NOTE: fault can still be registered after I-Level K001-19-07-510, but measures were incorporated in I-Level to prevent the bike from entering emergency operation mode or illuminate in the instrument cluster
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 03 23	S 1000 XR Software Update	S1000 dynamic mode left off build even though it looks like you selected it- update to I level K001-23-11-510 or newer
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 04 23	K5X Driveshaft Maintenance Schedule Change	all R series bikes 2004 to 2019 - the drive shaft will eventually break and may cut off your leg - new pretend serving checks added
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 13 04 23	DISA Error 0x3A14C1	broken drive arm for the DISA actuator unit that causes fault entry 0x3A14C1
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 13 01 24	Fuel Line Hose Clamp	MY 23 quick connect fuel pipe made wrongly
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 01 24	Chassis Calibration Failure	DSA suspension calibration process fails
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 61 01 24	Intermittent Fault With Intelligent Service Call	Microphone short circuit, tolerance changes with I-Level 24-07-500
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 03 24	Recall 24V-165 Check Front Suspension Strut	MY 23 front shock proportioning valve falls off - no damping
BMW Motorcycle	SIB 33 04 24	Check Suspension Strut	MY 23 & 24 may have faulty front and rear shocks

 

Yup, hold the shaft or try to push the shaft towards the front of the bike as you pull the final drive unit out. Not one single joke.

 

Thanks all for the advice!
I gave it a go but it kept getting stuck. On further inspection, the spline slides in the joint just fine and there’s like a flange at the end of the spline, all the groves are blocked, so I don’t see how it would even slide out. I took a pic of the spline slid into the joint. It isn’t quite in focus, but you can see what I mean. Maybe it wasn’t meant to come out.
I did manage to get 150ml of oil out, barely got 150ml back in before it started to leak out. Next time I’ll hoist the front end up to help all the oil drain out.
I’ve read how some people manage to put the syringe tube all the way to the bottom of the drive, not sure how that’s done as there’s very little room to spare inside the drain hole.

 

Thanks all for the advice!
I gave it a go but it kept getting stuck. On further inspection, the spline slides in the joint just fine and there’s like a flange at the end of the spline, all the groves are blocked, so I don’t see how it would even slide out. I took a pic of the spline slid into the joint. It isn’t quite in focus, but you can see what I mean. Maybe it wasn’t meant to come out.
I did manage to get 150ml of oil out, barely got 150ml back in before it started to leak out. Next time I’ll hoist the front end up to help all the oil drain out.
I’ve read how some people manage to put the syringe tube all the way to the bottom of the drive, not sure how that’s done as there’s very little room to spare inside the drain hole.
View attachment 36739

Are you not dropping the final drive down? It looks like you still have it secured to the torque arm?
I know your not wanting to remove the shaft but this may illustrate where you need to be.

 

Hey Malcolm, that shaft will slide out just fine. There is a dampening washer on the end of the shaft but that slides off. Lift the drive so it is almost at a normal angle, shove the shaft forward then lower the drive, you may have to play with it by raising and lowering the FD a little.

 

Don't set the dampening washer off to the side , and then forget to put it back on.... Just relaying that info "from a friend".

 

"I did manage to get 150ml of oil out, barely got 150ml back in before it started to leak out. Next time I’ll hoist the front end up to help all the oil drain out."
On the 2008 K's you shouldn't drain and fill the oil with the rear drive in a lowered position. It should be drained and filled when it is still in the "normal" or running position. That could be why it started to leak out, because the fill hole was lower than it should be.
At least that's my interpretation of your post.

The older bevels were lowered for oil draining, but not the 2008 ones.

 

My miscommunication. After draining the oil, I reconnected the rear drive, then refilled it through the drain hole.

 

the expert on these - reccos dropping every one every time - in his view it gets you inspecting the UJ and lubing those splines....

two service bulletins for drive shafts failing on old bikes and even replacement procedures in service schedules on the R1250 and the R1300 bikes