I recently set about to do some maintenance on my GT and spent quite a long time searching for information. I figured I'd save someone in the future a few hours and compile everything I learned into one post. So, here we go:
Oil Change
This is fairly straightforward, but it's a bit different from other bikes.
1. To refill the oil, you must disconnect the clear tube at the top of the oil tank. It's the gauge for the oil level sensor. Squeeze the base of the connector and pull up.
2. Once the tube is disconnected, fill the tank until the level reaches the top of the filler hole.
3. Start the bike briefly, and it will go back down, allowing you to put in the rest of the oil.
The part number the dealership has on file is wrong. It's the part number for the K1300, which is too long. It fits, but it requires removal of the kickstand.
Coolant change
Changing the coolant requires a vacuum filling tool.
Spark Plugs
The official BMW plugs are $25+ each. The NGK DCPR9EIX Iridium replacements are $8 each:
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-DCPR9EIX-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000GZGV8E
Changing the spark plugs is not a job for the faint of heart because it requires draining and removal of the radiator, the coil packs are difficult to remove, and the spark plug wells are narrow.
The best technique I found for removing the coil packs was to grip them with a pair of pliers and then pry up on the pliers with a screwdriver while twisting the pack back and forth.
My usual 5/8 spark plug socket was too thick to reach the plug, but fortunately I had a deep well 16mm that just barely fit. This may be a good tool, but I can't verify from personal experience: Tusk Spark Plug Socket 5/8" (16mm) Hex
Use plenty of tape on your extension if you don't want to spend a lot of time cursing and trying to fish the socket out of the well.
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Stepper Motor / Throttle Stop
The bike has an electric motor that stops the throttle from opening quickly. Some users shim them for quicker opening, and others remove them entirely.
Airbox
Early 2007 models may suffer from a hanging idle due to problems with the airbox. You can check your VIN to see if you have the old airbox or the new. See this service bulletin for details: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9281
O2 Sensor
Problems with stumbling or surging may be remedied by replacing the oxygen sensor. A Bosch universal sensor is much cheaper than the BMW sensor. Part numbers 15718, 15727, and 15730 all work. I believe they're the same sensor with different length wires. The wire length isn't important for this application since you'll need to solder on the factory connector from the old sensor anyway.
TPS Reset
Resetting the throttle position sensor may also cure stumbling or surging issues.
Power Commander
The Power Commander PCIII USB for the K1200 R/S fits the K1200GT. It seems to be the only sure fire solution to the Bucking Bronco Syndrome. Installation is not difficult per se, but it is time consuming and can be frustrating. A set of push pin pliers will make it easier to get the special hose clamps on and off the airbox, but you can use needle nose pliers instead.
Cam Chain Tensioner
The original cam chain tensioner doesn't pressurize quickly enough and leads to a loud clattering noise on startup. BMW released an updated version with an oil reservior. Installation is easy.
Cam Chain Jump Guard
This update from BMW prevents the cam chain from jumping a tooth. Installation requires removal of the clutch cover. The gasket and screws should not be reused. The bike will not leak a significant amount of oil. This is a good opportunity to tighten the adjuster on the oil pump chain as well.
Brake Pad Warning Light
The pad sensor wires are known to break, causing the pad wear warning light to go on. The only solution is to find and fix the break in the wire. Only a dealer can clear the light.
ECU
The early 2007 GT computers are designated BMSK, and the later ones are BMSKP. Swapping to a BMSKP may clear up fueling issues such as a rough idle, but it's expensive compared to a PCIII.
Fuel Line Quick Disconnect
The factory plastic connector to the fuel pump often breaks, causing a gas leak. Replacing it with a metal one is good insurance. You may also replace the female half of the connector in the tank, but some have reported leaks after doing so.
When you put in your order with Omega, be sure to specify that you want an o-ring for gasoline applications.
Valve Check
As much trouble as the spark plug change was, I have no desire to go any deeper into the motor, and I will leave this one to the dealership. I couldn't find anyone whose valves were out of spec at 18k, so I'm not having mine checked until 36k.
Final Drive Fluid
The final drive is theoretically meant to stay sealed for the life of the bike, and there is no drain plug. Many believe this to be a mistake, however. Personally, I plan to change the final drive fluid when I change rear tires and have the wheel off anyway.
Transmission fluid
The transmission shares oil with the engine and has no separate fluid.
Ok, that's it! That's everything I know.
Feel free to chime in with stuff I've missed.
Oil Change
This is fairly straightforward, but it's a bit different from other bikes.
1. To refill the oil, you must disconnect the clear tube at the top of the oil tank. It's the gauge for the oil level sensor. Squeeze the base of the connector and pull up.
2. Once the tube is disconnected, fill the tank until the level reaches the top of the filler hole.
3. Start the bike briefly, and it will go back down, allowing you to put in the rest of the oil.
The part number the dealership has on file is wrong. It's the part number for the K1300, which is too long. It fits, but it requires removal of the kickstand.
- BMW oil filter part numbers - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=178466&postcount=6
- Aftermarket oil filters - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=70617&postcount=5
Coolant change
Changing the coolant requires a vacuum filling tool.
- Instructions - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=105361&postcount=16
- AirLift II Cooling System Refiller - http://www.amazon.com/550500-AirLift-Economy-Cooling-Refiller/dp/B000IHK1VI/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
Spark Plugs
The official BMW plugs are $25+ each. The NGK DCPR9EIX Iridium replacements are $8 each:
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-DCPR9EIX-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000GZGV8E
Changing the spark plugs is not a job for the faint of heart because it requires draining and removal of the radiator, the coil packs are difficult to remove, and the spark plug wells are narrow.
The best technique I found for removing the coil packs was to grip them with a pair of pliers and then pry up on the pliers with a screwdriver while twisting the pack back and forth.
My usual 5/8 spark plug socket was too thick to reach the plug, but fortunately I had a deep well 16mm that just barely fit. This may be a good tool, but I can't verify from personal experience: Tusk Spark Plug Socket 5/8" (16mm) Hex
Use plenty of tape on your extension if you don't want to spend a lot of time cursing and trying to fish the socket out of the well.
Stepper Motor / Throttle Stop
The bike has an electric motor that stops the throttle from opening quickly. Some users shim them for quicker opening, and others remove them entirely.
- Background Information - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15835
- Instructions - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=121020&postcount=22
Airbox
Early 2007 models may suffer from a hanging idle due to problems with the airbox. You can check your VIN to see if you have the old airbox or the new. See this service bulletin for details: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9281
O2 Sensor
Problems with stumbling or surging may be remedied by replacing the oxygen sensor. A Bosch universal sensor is much cheaper than the BMW sensor. Part numbers 15718, 15727, and 15730 all work. I believe they're the same sensor with different length wires. The wire length isn't important for this application since you'll need to solder on the factory connector from the old sensor anyway.
- Instructions - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=121750&postcount=5
- Bosch 15727 Sensor - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-15730-O...sal-Fitment/dp/B000BZL08A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1336669152&sr=1-1
TPS Reset
Resetting the throttle position sensor may also cure stumbling or surging issues.
Power Commander
The Power Commander PCIII USB for the K1200 R/S fits the K1200GT. It seems to be the only sure fire solution to the Bucking Bronco Syndrome. Installation is not difficult per se, but it is time consuming and can be frustrating. A set of push pin pliers will make it easier to get the special hose clamps on and off the airbox, but you can use needle nose pliers instead.
- Pictures of the hose clamps - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=140165&postcount=5
Cam Chain Tensioner
The original cam chain tensioner doesn't pressurize quickly enough and leads to a loud clattering noise on startup. BMW released an updated version with an oil reservior. Installation is easy.
- Pics and a part number: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=118242&postcount=5
- The BMW advisory with installation instructions: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=142908&postcount=8
- And a YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaC4ORN4FJs
- There is also a manual CCT availabe from APE - http://aperaceparts.com/bmwtensioner.html
Cam Chain Jump Guard
This update from BMW prevents the cam chain from jumping a tooth. Installation requires removal of the clutch cover. The gasket and screws should not be reused. The bike will not leak a significant amount of oil. This is a good opportunity to tighten the adjuster on the oil pump chain as well.
- Part number and diagram - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=174009&postcount=3
- More install details - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=174020&postcount=10
Brake Pad Warning Light
The pad sensor wires are known to break, causing the pad wear warning light to go on. The only solution is to find and fix the break in the wire. Only a dealer can clear the light.
ECU
The early 2007 GT computers are designated BMSK, and the later ones are BMSKP. Swapping to a BMSKP may clear up fueling issues such as a rough idle, but it's expensive compared to a PCIII.
Fuel Line Quick Disconnect
The factory plastic connector to the fuel pump often breaks, causing a gas leak. Replacing it with a metal one is good insurance. You may also replace the female half of the connector in the tank, but some have reported leaks after doing so.
- Pictures and part numbers - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=112726&postcount=1
When you put in your order with Omega, be sure to specify that you want an o-ring for gasoline applications.
Valve Check
As much trouble as the spark plug change was, I have no desire to go any deeper into the motor, and I will leave this one to the dealership. I couldn't find anyone whose valves were out of spec at 18k, so I'm not having mine checked until 36k.
Final Drive Fluid
The final drive is theoretically meant to stay sealed for the life of the bike, and there is no drain plug. Many believe this to be a mistake, however. Personally, I plan to change the final drive fluid when I change rear tires and have the wheel off anyway.
- Instructions - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=183173&postcount=4
- More instructions / alternate method - http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=183176&postcount=6
Transmission fluid
The transmission shares oil with the engine and has no separate fluid.
Ok, that's it! That's everything I know.
Feel free to chime in with stuff I've missed.
