ESA stuck/refuses to go in to spring tension mode - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2012, 4:53 pm Thread Starter
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ESA stuck/refuses to go in to spring tension mode

Hi all. I don't know if there is some prerequisite to adjust spring tension on ESA? I have tried a few different things, runnng and not running, sidestand up and down, on the centerstand and off, nothing helps. It displays one helmet, never flashes the helmet. I usually leave it in solo, been a while since I've even attempted to change it. Damping adjustment works fine. Maybe I am doing it wrong.

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2012, 6:48 pm Thread Starter
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Boy I am screwed it looks like. I tried it again, no go. New shock, HUH, $2K??? Used ones $600+??
Only thought now is that I could dink around with it this winter, wonder how tough it is to remove? Is the shiny cylinder that sticks out on top the motor? The one with the rubber cap that warns about high pressure?

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2012, 8:26 pm Thread Starter
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SO I was looking it over. What is the large cylinder on the top, the one with the rubber cap on the end? There is what looks like a small motor between this cylinder and the shock body. I am guessing this is damping? It makes a noise a few seconds after the ignition is switched on. There is the connector on the bottom, is that for spring pretension? Confused on how the spring pretension works.

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2012, 11:23 pm
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I have no answer for you, I just don't want to see you talking to yourself....just to make sure - to adjust spring preload you need engine on. stands up, no touching of brake/clutch levers or no go - if you are doing that and not getting preload change you may be hosed.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2012, 11:31 pm
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Sometimes, the ESA preload motor drives all the way past one end of its useable range, and then gets stuck up against a hard stop.

The trick is to put 12V directly to the preload motor and see if it moves. If not, reverse polarity and try it again.

Once you get it to move, it should return to normal operation.

This is a fairly rare thing, but it has happened to a couple of bikes that I know of.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2012, 11:52 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks to both of you. I guess talking to myself is better than talking to no one, right?
Hey Ken, can you direct me to where the connector is? I am still confused on what connection does what, but assume the one on top is the damper and the lower one is for the spring. Where would i disconnect to jump power to the adjuster?
Gilly

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2012, 12:48 am
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I didn't do the actual procedure, just talked to my dealer who has done a couple.

Ken
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'12 Mineral Silver Metallic K16GTLD, 60K miles and gone
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'07 Dark Graphite Metallic K12GT, 138,220 miles and dead
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2012, 7:39 am Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will figure it out.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2012, 8:21 am Thread Starter
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Few quick things; I have the next couple days off so wanted to work on it, but no real reason I have to get it fixed. I can ride it, and have been riding it, like this for awhile.

Is this the same rear shock as a 1300GT or not? Kind of confused on if this is ESA or ESA II. or are the 1200 and 1300 both ESA II but they are still not the same shock?

What I think I have determined is at the bottom of the shock, the electrical connector is an adjuster for rebound, I don't know if this work in harmony with the spring pretension adjuster?

The rebound adjuster is the one by the small tank that stick out that I mentioned.

The spring pretension adjuster I think is just opposite of that tank and I think is going to be hard to see, I think I need to look on the right side of the bike and haven't looked around there yet.

The connectors will probably be under the seat, I will just need to sort through things.

The one for the spring pretension I am thinking is a connector with quite a few wires, 7 or 8 it looks like (by studying pics of some 2007 shocks for sale on ebay). Would anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for the rear shock ESA stuff? And where the connectors are located when the shock is installed?

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2012, 9:23 am
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You mentioned that you have not did the adjustment for a while and were not sure if you were doing it correctly. On my k1300s the adjustment can be made with engine running, kickstand can be up or down, a short push on the esa switch toggles between comf, normal, sport settings on the damping. Push and HOLD down the esa button longer and then the preload changes from one helmet, helemet plus luggage and then two helmets (have to release and rehold each time to move to the next preload setting). Hopefully this is the issue and not a mechanical one.
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