Accessory connector from Canbus system: which wire does what?

[Lucsch]

Hi folks,

I was into the dealership for my first 600 mile maintenance last Tuesday, and I ordered a specific accessory plug for feeding my Garmin 276C GPS. There are 2 accessory outlets on the Canbus system that allow one to drain power: 1 in the front, under the tank panel that hides the battery (it is zip tied to a framepart, and has a rubber cover on it), and 1 in the back under the seat (which I wasn't able to locate yet up until now).

There are 3 wires on the accessory outlet: 1 with a brown wire (must be ground), 1 with a red-and-white wire (should be +12V), and thirdly 1 with a I think blue-and-another-color wire. Does anybody know the function of this wire? The dealer tech couldn't answer very definitive, he thought it was a wire to power instrument lighting or the like, but he was not sure at all. He indicated however that the +12V would stay on for 15 to 30 seconds after the ignition was turned off.
As a complement let me tell you that the brown and red-and-white wire are positioned in the connector side by side, whereas the third wire is positioned on top of the connector between the 2 other wires, if that helps.

Rather than do the guessing, I would like to rely on the wisdom of this forum to find out the function of the third wire? Does anybody know?

I will receive my accessory connector tomorrow in the snailmail, so would appreciate knowing how to wire it to my Garmin 276C power cable.

Thx

Luc

[messenger13]

Surely a voltage meter would come in real handy for this, no? Perhaps one is a switched lead, and one is not.

[Lucsch]

Surely a voltage meter would come in real handy for this, no? Perhaps one is a switched lead, and one is not.
In the mean time I found out the third wire is blue-and-green. Yes I have a voltmeter, but I do not think one is permanent and the other one switched, but I will try for sure!

Will keep you guys posted!

Luc

[philspace]

Cool, keep us posted :thumb

I found it and it would be ideal for my tank bag as well. I will send a note to my dealer tomorrow and see if I can get any info on it.

Thanks,

Phil

[anod]

Brown = ground

Red white = +12 V (stay on for +20 seconds after ignition turned off)

Blue/green = 12 V (follow the ignition key immediately)

/Anders

GT owner in Stockholm Sweden.

PS wonderful bike!!!
:)

[philspace]

Brown = ground

Red white = +12 V (stay on for +20 seconds after ignition turned off)

Blue/green = 12 V (follow the ignition key immediately)

/Anders

GT owner in Stockholm Sweden.

PS wonderful bike!!!
:)

Thanks :thumb:

[BeniciaRT]

I'm a little slow, and a "picture is worth a thousand words!" Is it possible you could take a picture of the connnector. I'll dig around and see if I can find the connector, but that is exactly what I'm looking for. Especially up there where I put my autocom and want all my toher stuff to run off of a relay!

Thanks

[philspace]

I'm a little slow, and a "picture is worth a thousand words!" Is it possible you could take a picture of the connnector. I'll dig around and see if I can find the connector, but that is exactly what I'm looking for. Especially up there where I put my autocom and want all my toher stuff to run off of a relay!

Thanks

It will be a while before I take the covers off, but basically, if you take the battery cover off, you will see a metal cross member that is in front of the batter. If you run your fingers along the front edge of the cross member, will feel the cable and connector wire tied there. We believe it is used to power the BMW Navigator, but basically, it's a low current switched power circuit that you could use for your tank bag, GPS or whatever.

[BeniciaRT]

It will be a while before I take the covers off, but basically, if you take the battery cover off, you will see a metal cross member that is in front of the batter. If you run your fingers along the front edge of the cross member, will feel the cable and connector wire tied there. We believe it is used to power the BMW Navigator, but basically, it's a low current switched power circuit that you could use for your tank bag, GPS or whatever.
Perrrrfect!

Thanks Phil

[Lucsch]

Perrrrfect!

Thanks Phil
Hi guys,

Here we are with some pictures.

First of all the actual connector that you can order at your dealer. BMW Partnumber is 90 000 611 656

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector006.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector008.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector009.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector010.jpg

Then a few shots of the accessory outlet under the battery cover (rubber cover removed):

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector001.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector002.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector003.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector004.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/AccessoryConnector005.jpg

Anders indicated that the blue/green wire is +12V immediately after the ignition key is switched on and dies off when the ignition key is off. Well, yes and no: it is indeed switched directly with the ignition key, but has 11.2 V, which is 1.2 V less than the red/white wire, that gives 12.4 V, at least when the engine is not running! If the engine is running, the blue/green gives 13.2 V and the red/white gives 14.3 V, the brown wire being the ground wire. This difference could be important with some specific devices, so use in function of what you want to hook up.

For clarity sake: the terminals are numbered 1, 2 and 3 on both the connector and the accesory plug. 1 is the brown wire and is the ground, blue/green is terminal 2 (directly switched 12V on and off) and red/white is terminal 3 (directly switched 12V on and delayed by 1 minute 12 V switched off).

On the accessory plug the (yellow) wires are also numbered 1, 2 and 3 (see picture), in accordance with the terminal numbers, and are about 38 cm (15") long.

There is room enough between the battery and the frame to tuck away neatly the accessory connector together with the accessory socket. I read somewhere that the accessory socket allows to draw up to 7 amperes of current, sure enough for all the dashboard gizmos, like GPS, XM radio, radar detectors, walkmans, MP3 players and the like. But most likely not enough to add a heated vest over there.

I will now trim the yellow wires and solder them to my Garmin GPSMAP 276C power cable via terminals 1 and 3, because that will give me the time to push one of my 276C buttons, so that the GPS can stay on and continue on battery power, when I do a stop and want the GPS staying on, finishing the project off with some heat shrink tubing. The power cable will be fixed with some tie zips to the frame in order not to overstress the soldered cable.

Hope this helps out the guys that are interested and clarifies a bit.

Rgds

Luc

[philspace]

Luc, you da man! I'm on this one, thanks for the part number. If you are ever over here, I'm buying :bowdown :beer:

[Lucsch]

Luc, you da man! I'm on this one, thanks for the part number. If you are ever over here, I'm buying :bowdown :beer:
Hi Phil,

My pleasure to add something to the common wisdom.

And BTW, you could see me coming since we have an office in Reston, VA, that I visit normally once a year. So I will have to hold you to that beer...

Luc

[philspace]

Hi Phil,

My pleasure to add something to the common wisdom.

And BTW, you could see me coming since we have an office in Reston, VA, that I visit normally once a year. So I will have to hold you to that beer...

Luc

Cool :thumb:

[philspace]

Oh well, that part number doesn't exist in the BMWNA's version of ETK, but my parts guy said he will keep on looking. Thanks Luc.

[easyman05]

Luc,
Thanks a lot for your post & pics! They are of super value!
I ordered a mounting "small piece of plastic" for EUR 21,- today. That's fine. At least one thing is cheaper than in the US. :-))
But the connector is a nightmare! Two BMW dealers told me the same - there is NO part number 90 000 611 656 in the program. No for the cars neither for the bikes. The latest ETK version ends with group 71 - that's all. They promised me to enquire BMW Rusland Trading tomorrow. Hope it will help.

[peteo]

Our parts guy confirmed that the 9000 part number does not exist in the US. Makes me wonder what our plug looks like.

[Lucsch]

Our parts guy confirmed that the 9000 part number does not exist in the US. Makes me wonder what our plug looks like.
I know my dealer had to ask twice, since he got originally the wrong connector delivered!

And that one started with 71, but doesn't fit! He had in his parts manual a note besides the 71 partnumber, written by hand, with the earlier posted 90 number, it was also on the package I got, and to make everything watertight, here is a pic of the plastic envelope the connector was in, so you can show it to your dealer to prove it exists.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/K12GT013.jpg

'Originele onderdelen' is Dutch for Genuine parts....

Of course I anticipated on this and examined the connector before installing it: it proves to be a connector manufactured by AMP, and it carries the product code 2-967082-1. The connector was packaged in a seperate plastic zipbag and mentioned 'special tool BMW 61 1 656', coming from the German company Cartool out of Ingolstadt. But I reckon they source it from AMP. Interestingly the accessory outlet on the bike is manufactured by Tyco, a US company. Didn't note that product code down tough...

With all these info, how can BMW deny they have it? Beats me!

BTW: the project with the Garmin power cable, soldered to the connector worked out flawlessly: I strapped the connector to the ground cable of the battery, on the right side of the bike, where there is plenty of space to tuck it away. I routed the Garmin cable up under the wire clamp on the right side of the steering handle: looks like it is factory installed!

Rgds

Luc

[philspace]

I know my dealer had to ask twice, since he got originally the wrong connector delivered!

And that one started with 71, but doesn't fit! He had in his parts manual a note besides the 71 partnumber, written by hand, with the earlier posted 90 number, it was also on the package I got, and to make everything watertight, here is a pic of the plastic envelope the connector was in, so you can show it to your dealer to prove it exists.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a18/lucsch/K12GT013.jpg

'Originele onderdelen' is Dutch for Genuine parts....

Of course I anticipated on this and examined the connector before installing it: it proves to be a connector manufactured by AMP, and it carries the product code 2-967082-1. The connector was packaged in a seperate plastic zipbag and mentioned 'special tool BMW 61 1 656', coming from the German company Cartool out of Ingolstadt. But I reckon they source it from AMP. Interestingly the accessory outlet on the bike is manufactured by Tyco, a US company. Didn't note that product code down tough...

With all these info, how can BMW deny they have it? Beats me!

BTW: the project with the Garmin power cable, soldered to the connector worked out flawlessly: I strapped the connector to the ground cable of the battery, on the right side of the bike, where there is plenty of space to tuck it away. I routed the Garmin cable up under the wire clamp on the right side of the steering handle: looks like it is factory installed!

Rgds

Luc

Thanks Luc, I will try to crossref the part number and see if it's available directly. Tyco bought out AMP and is now the parent company.

Phil

[randy]

I'll see if I can shed a little light on the connector. The connector number is X9349, for optional accessories. The connector has three wires:

(1) Brown = ground
(2) Blue/Green = Speed Pulse
(3) Red/White = 12V

The Blue/Green is a pulse derived from the speedometer pulse and very likely will measure around 12V when the bike is stationary. When the bike is moving this lead will have a pulse whose rate will reflect the speed of the motorcycle (each pulse a specific distance and the pulse rate relative to speed). This connector was first introduced on the 2005 K1200LT. This connector is also on the R1200RT, The K1200S and the K1200R. It is the connector used for the BMW Navigator GPS kit. I suspect the speed pulse is for future use with GPS units that employ dead reckoning like the Garmin 2650.

The Red/White lead is ignition switched 12V with a retained power feature. The duration of the retained power seems to vary with the amount of time the ignition is on. Since this supply is straight from the ZFE (central chassis electronics module) it will be current limited. I have no direct information as to what the designed current is, but I am operating an XM radio and a GPS off of it on my K1200S without any problems. I will also soon be adding an autocom to this circuit and will be duplicating this setup on my GT. If you exceed the current capacity of the ZFE on this lead you could always use this output to drive a relay supplied by a fused connection directly to the battery.


Hope this helps.

[easyman05]

The connector number is X9349, for optional accessories.

Is it the number shown on electric schematic? And how to order the plug for this socket? My dealer does not have a ref number no price for this item.

[Lucsch]

I'll see if I can shed a little light on the connector. The connector number is X9349, for optional accessories. The connector has three wires:

(1) Brown = ground
(2) Blue/Green = Speed Pulse
(3) Red/White = 12V

The Blue/Green is a pulse derived from the speedometer pulse and very likely will measure around 12V when the bike is stationary. When the bike is moving this lead will have a pulse whose rate will reflect the speed of the motorcycle (each pulse a specific distance and the pulse rate relative to speed). This connector was first introduced on the 2005 K1200LT. This connector is also on the R1200RT, The K1200S and the K1200R. It is the connector used for the BMW Navigator GPS kit. I suspect the speed pulse is for future use with GPS units that employ dead reckoning like the Garmin 2650.

The Red/White lead is ignition switched 12V with a retained power feature. The duration of the retained power seems to vary with the amount of time the ignition is on. Since this supply is straight from the ZFE (central chassis electronics module) it will be current limited. I have no direct information as to what the designed current is, but I am operating an XM radio and a GPS off of it on my K1200S without any problems. I will also soon be adding an autocom to this circuit and will be duplicating this setup on my GT. If you exceed the current capacity of the ZFE on this lead you could always use this output to drive a relay supplied by a fused connection directly to the battery.


Hope this helps.


Hi Randy,

At last the correct info! Thx a lot for this clarification.

The rated output seems to be 7A for the accessory outlet...

Luc

[philspace]

Hi Randy,

At last the correct info! Thx a lot for this clarification.

The rated output seems to be 7A for the accessory outlet...

Luc


+1 Thanks Randy!

Now for the next, I tried cross ref'ing the connector at Digikey, Newark and Tyco, I will keep on searching.

[randy]

Is it the number shown on electric schematic? And how to order the plug for this socket? My dealer does not have a ref number no price for this item.That is the connector callout on the electrical schematic. I am not sure how to order a connector yet. I am hoping the efforts from others in this thread will bear fruit. For my S I used a connector I found in a pile of old motorcycle wiring I had.

http://randy.bmwlt.net/accyplug.JPG

It is the white connector in the above image. I will need another for my GT.

[easyman05]

My dealer informed me that he had got a written reply from BMW Rusland today - there was NO such part number available for sale in Russia. BMW does not sell parts of the accessory kits.
Well I knew that there was a difference between our countries but did not imagine that there were different BMWs.

[Lucsch]

+1 Thanks Randy!

Now for the next, I tried cross ref'ing the connector at Digikey, Newark and Tyco, I will keep on searching.
Phil,

Reviewing my pictures at the start of this thread, I noticed you can read the Tyco accessory outlet plug partnumber on the picture: it is 2-1452050-1. Maybe this helps too in the crossreferencing: you need the other connector that fits this one....

Luc

[Ruben]

My local dealer (Fort Myers, Florida, USA) says the BMW part number is 83300413585
(For easier reading 83 300 413 585 )

I've ordered one, we'll see what I get :confused:

I have no idea why the number would change, but ....... (possibly an automobile part?) :confused:

I'll follow up as soon as I receive whatever that item is (hope its correct)

[philspace]

Phil,

Reviewing my pictures at the start of this thread, I noticed you can read the Tyco accessory outlet plug partnumber on the picture: it is 2-1452050-1. Maybe this helps too in the crossreferencing: you need the other connector that fits this one....

Luc

Big help Luc, that number does exist, there are 3400 of them to be had, but only from distributors and wholesalers in bulk. I used my company and put in an RFQ for 50 of them to see if that comes close to a minimum order, but I think this might needs to be a Pirate's Lair vendor kind of thing since that doesn't include the crimper, pin tool etc. It's definitely not an over the counter item from my local parts distributor.

I will let you know what they come back with and also pass Ruben's number to my dealer.

Phil

[philspace]

My local dealer (Fort Myers, Florida, USA) says the BMW part number is 83300413585
(For easier reading 83 300 413 585 )

I've ordered one, we'll see what I get :confused:

I have no idea why the number would change, but ....... (possibly an automobile part?) :confused:

I'll follow up as soon as I receive whatever that item is (hope its correct)

Bingo, give that man a cupy doll, mine are on order :thumb:

[messenger13]

You boys get all this stuff ironed-out and working before my GT gets here! OK?! :D

[Ruben]

You boys get all this stuff ironed-out and working before my GT gets here! OK?! :DWe're working on it! :D :tim :D

[philspace]

This is from the first electronics distributor I asked for an RFQ from. Sure sounds like this was a special run for one manufacturer, they all show 3400 available until you try to buy them.

Sorry, these parts are no longer available from us. Thanks.

Targetronix
6551 Cochran Rd.
Solon, OH 44139

[easyman05]

My local dealer (Fort Myers, Florida, USA) says the BMW part number is 83300413585
(For easier reading 83 300 413 585 )
)

Looks like I live on a different planet:-((
The same story with the specified above number - not available in ETK. WE can't help you, sorry.
Among the accessories for Navigator they found a cable with connectors on both ends - one fits the installed one. But the price is EUR 80,-.
It seems much simpler just to cut off the piece and to solder the wires. What do you think, guys?

[philspace]

Looks like I live on a different planet:-((
The same story with the specified above number - not available in ETK. WE can't help you, sorry.
Among the accessories for Navigator they found a cable with connectors on both ends - one fits the installed one. But the price is EUR 80,-.
It seems much simpler just to cut off the piece and to solder the wires. What do you think, guys?

For Eur 80 I wouldn't do it either, but I also wouldn't cut it off. I would recommend you use some "Tap-in Squeeze" Connectors. Most auto places and Radio Shack's sell them, the BMW wire goes straight through, you slip your wire into it, and then squeeze it together with a set of pliers, instant splice, without removing the original connector. This is what they look like:

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2266845w345.jpg

[easyman05]

For Eur 80 I wouldn't do it either, but I also wouldn't cut it off. I would recommend you use some "Tap-in Squeeze" Connectors. Most auto places and Radio Shack's sell them, the BMW wire goes straight through, you slip your wire into it, and then squeeze it together with a set of pliers, instant splice, without removing the original connector. This is what they look like:

Thank you, Phil!
I was too upset to think about it.

[Ruben]

Looks like I live on a different planet:-((
The same story with the specified above number - not available in ETK. WE can't help you, sorry.
Among the accessories for Navigator they found a cable with connectors on both ends - one fits the installed one. But the price is EUR 80,-.
It seems much simpler just to cut off the piece and to solder the wires. What do you think, guys?If you don't mind the delay, and probably some import tarrif, you could order online from here:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp
Less than $25.00 US
I "assume" that they ship overseas, although I don't know that. I'd presume that there are probably places in Europe that sell direct online too?

Just a thought.

[sportrider]

I just cut mine off and used it to wire my radar detector...no biggie.

[randy]

You boys get all this stuff ironed-out and working before my GT gets here! OK?! :DIt'll be our pleasure Joe ;)

[randy]

My local dealer (Fort Myers, Florida, USA) says the BMW part number is 83300413585
(For easier reading 83 300 413 585 )

Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner! I ordered and received an 83 30 0 413 585 connector and received it today. It is the correct 3-pin connector with 15" yellow pigtails. This will work on the K1200R, K1200S and K1200GT for connection to the auxiliary equipment connector taped up just in front of the battery.

[philspace]

Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner! I ordered and received an 83 30 0 413 585 connector and received it today. It is the correct 3-pin connector with 15" yellow pigtails. This will work on the K1200R, K1200S and K1200GT for connection to the auxiliary equipment connector taped up just in front of the battery.

Yup, I picked up mine on Thursday. I haven't used it yet, the outlet is still running off the battery, so I think I'm going to put two there, one for the tank bag off the connector and the other outlet as it is for the charger and other goodies.

[easyman05]

I got it finally!
BMW part number is 61 138 366 277.
Costs EUR 6,- but needs wires.

[philspace]

I got it finally!
BMW part number is 61 138 366 277.
Costs EUR 6,- but needs wires.

If it needs wires, you will probably also need the AMP/TYCO crimping and insertion tools for the pins.

[easyman05]

My dealer gave three wires with pins fixed today.
So I am ready. Just waiting for the bracket to come and 276C.

[MassGT]

Can I or should I connect the other end of BMW part number is 61 138 366 277 to a
Centech AP-1 Auxilliary Power Fuse Panel ? I want to be able to run gps,autocom, ect.

[messenger13]

Can I or should I connect the other end of BMW part number is 61 138 366 277 to a
Centech AP-1 Auxilliary Power Fuse Panel ? I want to be able to run gps,autocom, ect.I would highly recommend using that connector only as a lead to trip a relay. I would power the Centech straight off the battery with a 30-amp inline fuse before the 30-amp relay. Make sense?

PM me if you need more assistance. :)

[philspace]

I would highly recommend using that connector only as a lead to trip a relay. I would power the Centech straight off the battery with a 30-amp inline fuse before the 30-amp relay. Make sense?

PM me if you need more assistance. :)

You can do that, but my dealer frowned on it. They don't like relays for some reason on CANBus monitored circuits. They told me to use one of the parking light wires up front if I wanted to drive a relay since they weren't monitored. I find this strange, since they had no problem with me powering my tank bag electronics directly from the monitored circuit in front of the battery.

That said, I'm still using a direct feed from the battery for the time being so the GPS doesn't go off while starting the engine. When the bike sheds load and engages the stater solenoid that momentary interruption breaks up the tracklog on the GPS, which is a PIA if you use them. You can sew it back together with Mapsource, but why bother.

[randy]

You can do that, but my dealer frowned on it. They don't like relays for some reason on CANBus monitored circuits. They are not speaking from knowledge, they are parroting something they may have heard. There is a function of any coil where a reverse EMF is generated when the field collapses, but the amount of current is very small. Any driver circuit such as the ZFE uses for switched outputs would be able to handle this reverse EMF without problem. If you wanted to provide additional protection, some spike suppression could be added to the relay coil but I feel that would be completely unnecessary.

[philspace]

They are not speaking from knowledge, they are parroting something they may have heard. There is a function of any coil where a reverse EMF is generated when the field collapses, but the amount of current is very small. Any driver circuit such as the ZFE uses for switched outputs would be able to handle this reverse EMF without problem. If you wanted to provide additional protection, some spike suppression could be added to the relay coil but I feel that would be completely unnecessary.

Understand, heck I'm a EE, makes no sense to me either.

My only issue is one of good will and keeping my service mgr happy. These are the same guys that represent me on warranty issues and have done a good job for me on service. If doing something small like this their way means they will defend me all the way and work for me with BMWNA, I'll put up with alot.

I have run my intercom, two way, GPS etc. once barefoot on the GPS accessory connector via my Blue Seas fuse block with no problem at all, short of the load shedding feature.

I also have helped them in the past fixing problems with the BMW and J&M audio systems and radios etc. Even with that, they seem to parrot whatever they are told from the BMW regional service guru.

[MassGT]

Joe I will PM you the first part on next week after I get back from Cape Cod with the family. With all my bike riding and trips I have to send some time this weekend off the bike.

[radiowazee]

I have run my intercom, two way, GPS etc. once barefoot on the GPS accessory connector via my Blue Seas fuse block with no problem at all, short of the load shedding feature.



I'm tracking down the BMW plug/wire thingy and all I need to wire up is my Autocom.

Couple questions ...

Do I need to worry about running a fuse between the BMW accessory power and the Autocom? If so, is there a simple "in wire" fuse solution that would work or do I need to get a fuse box?

It seems that a fuse box would come in handy when wiring in future devices for no other reason than having nice terminals to connect your bare wires to! (I already have my 376c GPS wired into the Parking Light)

Right now, I'll either tap into the GPS accessory plug using some of those cool "squeeze" splicers mentioned earlier in this thread -- or, I'll be able to get my hands on the BMW accessory plug to wires thingy.

Howard

PS. If I do get a fuse box ... is this the kind of thing I want?

30 bucks from Blue Seas Marine -- 6 circuit with ground -- takes ATO/ATC blade fuses 30 Amp per circuit, 100 Amp per block -- max 32VDC, which I assume would work in a car and on my K1200RS!:

http://www.seattlemarine.net/productcart/pc/catalog/abc/bls5025_1223_general.jpg

http://www.seattlemarine.net/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=2039

[messenger13]

Yes...many riders use the Blue Sea fuse panels.

[philspace]

I'm tracking down the BMW plug/wire thingy and all I need to wire up is my Autocom.

Couple questions ...

Do I need to worry about running a fuse between the BMW accessory power and the Autocom? If so, is there a simple "in wire" fuse solution that would work or do I need to get a fuse box?

It seems that a fuse box would come in handy when wiring in future devices for no other reason than having nice terminals to connect your bare wires to! (I already have my 376c GPS wired into the Parking Light)

Right now, I'll either tap into the GPS accessory plug using some of those cool "squeeze" splicers mentioned earlier in this thread -- or, I'll be able to get my hands on the BMW accessory plug to wires thingy.

Howard


If all you are powering is an intercom, I would use the wirign setup that came with the intercom, which is generally a 1A AGC inline fuse, that's good enough.

You can use anything kind of fuse block you want. I prefer the other Blue Sea which uses AGC fuses, because most of the electronics farkle is on 1A or 2A fast blow fuses, which is almost unobtanium in the ATC or ATM format. Generally, the smallest ATC/ATM fuse you will find if you are stuck on the road is a 3A, which is a little much for a GPS, or Autocom.

[1downfourup]

Hey Guys...
I think you may be putting me onto something here... a least I hope so. I am about to connect my Centech accessory fuse block and relay. To do this, I need a low amp wire that is switched with the key. I would prefer that things switch on and off immediately with the key. Can I use one of these wires for the low amp connection for the Centech relay? If so, which wire? Also, I am wondering if anyone has a good kind of connector to use for this... my experience with tap type connectors leads me to want something else! Thanks for any help...
1downfourup

[philspace]

That acc ckt in front of the battery is ZFE controlled and I don't think it turns off immediately, but follows they same rules as the ACC socket on the side and shuts off automatically some time later. If you want it to immediately follow the key, then use the parking lights.

[randy]

Hey Guys...
I think you may be putting me onto something here... a least I hope so. I am about to connect my Centech accessory fuse block and relay. To do this, I need a low amp wire that is switched with the key. I would prefer that things switch on and off immediately with the key. Can I use one of these wires for the low amp connection for the Centech relay? If so, which wire? Also, I am wondering if anyone has a good kind of connector to use for this... my experience with tap type connectors leads me to want something else! Thanks for any help...
1downfourupIf you want it to go on and off immediately with the key, I would tap into the running lights circuit. The wire color will be gray/blue. It used to be that you could use the taillight wiring to trigger a relay, but now they modulate the brightness of the taillight through the ZFE rather than the dual filament bulb - therefore the taillight has a reduced voltage while used as a taillight, the full 12v when used as a brakelight.

[randy]

That acc ckt in front of the battery is ZFE controlled and I don't think it turns off immediately, but follows they same rules as the ACC socket on the side and shuts off automatically some time later. If you want it to immediately follow the key, then use the parking lights.You call them parking lights, I call them running lights and BMW calls them "side lights". Notice that they no longer offer a "parking" position on the key switch.

[SKIZIKS]

You call them parking lights, I call them running lights and BMW calls them "side lights". Notice that they no longer offer a "parking" position on the key switch.

The parking (side lights) lights are activated by depressing the left turn signal lever after turning the ignition off. They must be activated within 10 or 15 seconds. I can't remember. They stay on until you switch the key on and off again.

Thank you Randy for all your excellent advice on the electrics. Hope you have a great trip to Canada! East? or West?

cheers,

[1downfourup]

Randy...
Thanks for the further thoughts. I'm thinking the red/white connector wire would be easiest to get to and less problematic than the running light wire... and would work fine for my purposes. Can you think of any downside to power continuing for a few seconds after the key is switched off? I plan to power XM, Garmin. Starcom, heated vest, etc off the Centech. Also... would appreciate knowing any improved connectors over the tap type... I heard there is some kind of gel connector for this type of t-connection? I know a solder would work best but was just hoping there was a quick type thing to use.
Regards,
1downfourup

[randy]

The parking (side lights) lights are activated by depressing the left turn signal lever after turning the ignition off. They must be activated within 10 or 15 seconds. I can't remember. They stay on until you switch the key on and off again.

Thank you Randy for all your excellent advice on the electrics. Hope you have a great trip to Canada! East? or West?

cheers,Thank you.

Mostly Alberta - Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper. Possibly over to Glacier and Revelstoke in Eastern B. C.

[randy]

Randy...
Thanks for the further thoughts. I'm thinking the red/white connector wire would be easiest to get to and less problematic than the running light wire... and would work fine for my purposes. Can you think of any downside to power continuing for a few seconds after the key is switched off? I plan to power XM, Garmin. Starcom, heated vest, etc off the Centech. Also... would appreciate knowing any improved connectors over the tap type... I heard there is some kind of gel connector for this type of t-connection? I know a solder would work best but was just hoping there was a quick type thing to use.
Regards,
1downfourupI always use solder and heat shrink tubing. The retained power aspect of the accessory connector wouldn't be a problem for small loads, but on my GT it seems to remain on for several minutes. If you want to control a relay supplying the Centech fuse panel for heated vests and other high current items, it might be better to tie into the low beam wiring so that it is part of the "load shed" group. As I said above I powered my XM, GPS and Autocom directly from the auxiliary equipment connector - then tapped the low beam wiring to control a relay for aux lighting.

[smccallion]

Has anyone been able to buy the BMW GPS power connector since June? (part no 83300413585). I can't get it at all in the UK (part not recognised by the delaers system), and asked a friend of mine who is living in the USA at the moment to try. The delaer near him said that BMW Germany have said that the part is no longer manufactured! If anyone in the USA knows where I can get one, would you mind letting me know so that I can get my friend to get ot for me? Thanks very much. If anyone in the UK has succeeded, it'd be good to know that too.

In the UK, the only thing I've found so far is the cable with the correct connector on, but with a Garmin connector on the other end (I won't be using a Garmin). Although I could cut the Garmin connector off, the cable costs about £54 (about $100) so I'd rather go for a cheaper option first if possible.

[ffearless]

Could someone tell me how I mihgt be able to get a signal from the clutch switch to kill cancel the the cruise control I am installing?

[messenger13]

Could someone tell me how I mihgt be able to get a signal from the clutch switch to kill cancel the the cruise control I am installing?Short of installing a micro-switch, I don't know...

[philspace]

Could someone tell me how I mihgt be able to get a signal from the clutch switch to kill cancel the the cruise control I am installing?

Installing a cruse control on a GT? I didn't think you could get one without it :wtf

[messenger13]

Installing a cruse control on a GT? I didn't think you could get one without it :wtfI'm assuming he's talking about his '02 RS.

[pauljones]

There is a Centech AP1 for sale on Ebay.co.uk £15!

[diggitydogg]

Just got one today from chicagobmw

Has anyone been able to buy the BMW GPS power connector since June? (part no 83300413585). I can't get it at all in the UK (part not recognised by the delaers system), and asked a friend of mine who is living in the USA at the moment to try. The delaer near him said that BMW Germany have said that the part is no longer manufactured! If anyone in the USA knows where I can get one, would you mind letting me know so that I can get my friend to get ot for me? Thanks very much. If anyone in the UK has succeeded, it'd be good to know that too.

In the UK, the only thing I've found so far is the cable with the correct connector on, but with a Garmin connector on the other end (I won't be using a Garmin). Although I could cut the Garmin connector off, the cable costs about £54 (about $100) so I'd rather go for a cheaper option first if possible.

[larrykay]

I got mine from Max's BMW. I am going to use it to hook up mu GPS and/or Autocom.

[Elefant]

Hi folks,
There are 2 accessory outlets on the Canbus system that allow one to drain power...
Luc

You can have a third one once you've bypassed the accesories outlet with a powerlet harness.... :ricky

[mmflytie]

That part # that you give for the cable( with photo). Can you tell me if that is European specific. I have quoted that to my local dealer in US and he says it makes no sense.. Can you get me in touch with whoever you got yours from ..my email address is as follows

mmflytie@charter.net.

Thanks
so much

Marc Morgan,, S.C. USA

[mmflytie]

That part # that you give for the cable( with photo). Can you tell me if that is European specific. I have quoted that to my local dealer in US and he says it makes no sense.. Can you get me in touch with whoever you got yours from ..my email address is as follows

mmflytie@charter.net.

Thanks
so much

Marc Morgan,, S.C. USA

[hazard]

Did you read through page 3 or so of the post.

The number is:

83 300 413 585

If you go to maxbmwmotorcycles.com and enter it into the parts fiche web tool it comes back with:

Part Number Description Each
83300413585 REPAIR CONNECTOR-3 P $24.30

This is what I paid at my local dealer.

[mikec]

Hi, Luc,

I tried to order the part from my dealer and he got an "invalid" reply. He called BMW and said they got a little crazy and told me to buy the docking kit. No way. Please check the part number and see if it's correct.

Thank you,

Mike

[Lucsch]

Hi, Luc,

I tried to order the part from my dealer and he got an "invalid" reply. He called BMW and said they got a little crazy and told me to buy the docking kit. No way. Please check the part number and see if it's correct.

Thank you,

Mike

Hi Mike,

Have a look at hazard's reply 1 post up: that is the part# to use in the US of A!

This should be the part needed!

Success!

Rgds

Luc

[larrykay]

same # on my connector purchased from Max
#83 30 0 413 585

[easyman05]

I would highly recommend using that connector only as a lead to trip a relay. I would power the Centech straight off the battery with a 30-amp inline fuse before the 30-amp relay. Make sense?

PM me if you need more assistance. :)

Joe,

Why 30-amp fuse? Centech says the panel could bear 60 amp so a 50-amp fuse is enough? No?
TIA

[grifscoots]

Joe,

Why 30-amp fuse? Centech says the panel could bear 60 amp so a 50-amp fuse is enough? No?
TIA

I usually use a 50amp. I also use the circuit breaker type, like you'd find on a harley.

[easyman05]

I usually use a 50amp. I also use the circuit breaker type, like you'd find on a harley.

Grif,

Could you post a pic fo the breaker, please? I've never paid attention to harley things :-))

I put 50-amp fuse before Centech but without breaker. I know, that's not the best idea - in case of current leakage it could be impossible to start the bike in nowhere. Will do my best to correct it . Just need to know what to look for.

TIA

[grifscoots]

Grif,

Could you post a pic fo the breaker, please? I've never paid attention to harley things :-))

I put 50-amp fuse before Centech but without breaker. I know, that's not the best idea - in case of current leakage it could be impossible to start the bike in nowhere. Will do my best to correct it . Just need to know what to look for.

TIAFrom the Napa website: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7823001&Description=Circuit+Breaker

The copper lug comes straight from the battery, go to your relay with the silver.

[easyman05]

The copper lug comes straight from the battery, go to your relay with the silver.

From Positive or Negative?

[grifscoots]

From Positive or Negative?I don't see a smiley, so I'm not sure if you're kidding, so I'll give you a correct answer: from the positive. The circuit breaker acts just like a fuse, but will reset itself if popped.

[easyman05]

I don't see a smiley, so I'm not sure if you're kidding, so I'll give you a correct answer: from the positive. The circuit breaker acts just like a fuse, but will reset itself if popped.

Thank you, Grif!

I was not kidding - just did not know. There had been negative breaker long time ago - was called "mass switch", "mass" meant "ground" at that time.
Thanks again!

[billde]

Luc;
Appreciate your post regarding the fuse box install.

Towards the end of the post you mentioned about stripping the yellow wire
so that you might have enough time to push one of the buttons on the Garmin so it will stay active after the ignition is shut off???

I would like to add a Centech fuse box so that the GPS ( Garmin Zumo ) would stay on after the ignition was turned off.
I don't have any electrical savy and don't understand how the GPS would remain on after power to the fuse box is shut off with the ignition.

Can you help the electrically handicapped.

Thanks
Bill

[Meese]

There's a slight delay when the key is turned off but before the factory GPS plug powers down. This can be a couple of minutes in some cases.

If you want the GPS to be powered regardless of the key position, then you have to rn its power cord directly to the battery. Just don't forget to turn it off if you're leaving the bike for a while (like overnight).

I'd like to have my GPS key-powered most of the time (for normal local rides), with the option of direct power sometimes (for LD rides where I'm tracing average speeds/time stopped). Maybe I just need two power cords, one with a diode in line to prevent everything else from staying powered on all the time.

[Lucsch]

Luc;
Appreciate your post regarding the fuse box install.

Towards the end of the post you mentioned about stripping the yellow wire
so that you might have enough time to push one of the buttons on the Garmin so it will stay active after the ignition is shut off???

...

Can you help the electrically handicapped.

Thanks
Bill
Hi Bill,

I think there is a small misunderstanding here: the stripping of the yellow wires has nothing to do with keeping the Garmin on.

I have a GPSMAP 276C, and one of the GPS menu settings is to push a button on the 276C to keep it on, otherwise it shuts off when external power is removed. But that is of course because the 276C has a built in battery. I have BTW changed that setting and now the 276C stays on when I shut off the K12GT power. So as Meese says, the K12GT power stays on for 30 to 90 seconds after switching off the contact key.

The Zumo has a battery built in that should last for 4 hours: however don't know how it behaves when you shut off the outside power. Can't you configure it so that it stays on?

Hope this clarifies,

Luc

[billde]

Hi Luc;
Thanks for the reply.
I think I understand how you get yours to stay on after the key is off, internal battery.
That is probably the smart way to do it.

What I would like to do is add a Centech fuse box under the seat and
have it controlled by a relay with it being controlled by the ignition key.

Maybe I can have one of the circuits on the relay powered all the time?

Thanks again, I will let you know if it works out.
Bill

[JamesM]

If you go with the Centech and a relay, then the circuits will be controlled by the ignition.
On my bike, I am going with two centech boxes, one mounted on top of the battery that will be hot all the time, and one mounted under the seat that will be controlled by a relay that is triggered by the lowbeam headlight.
Another option would be to go with a Painless fuse block. The painless has a relay built in and half of it's circuits are controlled by the relay/ignition and the other half are always hot. The downside to the painless, IMHO, is that it is to large to mount under that seat or on top of the battery. About the only place that you can mount it is under one of the panels, and that means if you happen to blow a fuse, you would have to remove a panel to replace it. That is why I decided to go with the 2 Centec units and one relay.

[JCW]

I don't know if it was mentioned in this thread earlier, but certain circuits may not be able to tolerate the high voltage spikes that may occur with switching a relay. There are relays that use diodes to prevent some of this. Just a little FYI.

[grifscoots]

Another option would be to go with a Painless fuse block. The painless has a relay built in and half of it's circuits are controlled by the relay/ignition and the other half are always hot. The downside to the painless, IMHO, is that it is to large to mount under that seat or on top of the battery. About the only place that you can mount it is under one of the panels, and that means if you happen to blow a fuse, you would have to remove a panel to replace it. That is why I decided to go with the 2 Centec units and one relay.I was given mucho grief years ago for mounting my Painless under the trunk of the LT, no easy access. I mounted the Painless under the left panel, next to the ABS unit on the GT. Now, it isn't instant access, but I can get to it in less than five minutes at home with my DeWalt cordless screwdriver, and less than 10 if on the road.

The thing is, I don't blow fuses. I solder my joints, heat shrink, tape and then put the wires in a plastic loom. Then the loom is carefully routed and secured, keeping in mind pinch and fray points. The only way I'm going to blow a fuse is if the (insert type of electrical goody here) malfunctions internally and shorts.

I love it when folks give me shit for burying my fuse box and then they go and bury a relay! BTW, there is a new, solid state relay out with no moving parts. I bought a couple, they aren't cheap, $18 each. Haven't tried them, yet. Someday, the fuse boxes will be like our ZFE. No fuses, just a brain.

[JamesM]

Grif,
I don't know if you read my other post or not, but I had a get off yesterday and since it looks like I'm not gonna be farkling next week, I may rethink the two Centechs and go with the Painless. The painless certainly would save space. I was gonna sign up for CCR this morning, but that is on hold for now until I find out about the bike. Once I get the bike back, I still want to add all my farkles before I go on a long trip. Maybe I can beg :dunno: you for a tech session. It would prolly take a week if I try to do it by myself.

[Meese]

I love it when folks give me shit for burying my fuse box and then they go and bury a relay! BTW, there is a new, solid state relay out with no moving parts.Nah, we just give you shit because you're grif. :D

Details on the solid state relay, please. Part numbers, where to buy, etc.?

[billde]

Hi;
I stopped by the BMW dealer and talked about the addition
of the fuse box.
1- I was told that some circuits are monitored by the Canbus
and others aren't. Some try to hook up the relay to the tail light
power but there are two different voltages suppling the tail light,
one for running lights and another voltage for the brake light.

The service guy thought the relay should get power from the front low beams.
He was not sure at the time if it was monitored and said he would look it up and let me know.

2- Asked about hooking up the Zumo to the plug up front.
answer- you would have to adapt a BMW plug with the Zumo
plug and if connections were soldered the additional resistance
of the solder could cause the Canbus to shut down
that part of the system.
It was recommened to wire in the TT-15 or Centech fuse block and
hook additional accessories up through the fuse block.

Hooking up additional equipment through the fuse block simplifies the diagnostic problem if one occurs, just disconnect the fuse block.

Bill

[philspace]

It's been posted before, but the parking lights in the front are not CANBUS monitored and are good for controlling a relay. It is also very easy to get to the wire by removing the turning signal.

The GPS Connector works like a champ also, I power my intercom, radio and other electronics with it.

[billde]

Philspace;
Thanks for the info. There is nothing like first hand knowledge
for a perceived problem.

Regards,

Bill

[the_Beaver]

Hi;

The service guy thought the relay should get power from the front low beams.
He was not sure at the time if it was monitored and said he would look it up and let me know.


Bill

That tech is a real brain. That would mean your fusebox would only work when the LO beam is on. Not exactly what you want.

The parking lights as mentioned is perfect for a relay switching feed.

As well, you can steal a bit of power from a factory socket. I believe it will be powered for 30 seconds after shutting the bike off, but this should be a problem.

I advise you to shut off as much as possible even if it's on a switched fusebox so that it's not powered at startup.

[grifscoots]

That tech is a real brain. That would mean your fusebox would only work when the LO beam is on. Not exactly what you want.
Funny, I have my Painless Fuse box fired by the low beam and have never had a problem

I advise you to shut off as much as possible even if it's on a switched fusebox so that it's not powered at startup. It doesn't matter if anything is on or off when connected to the low beam as the load shed shuts off the lights on start up.

[philspace]

Funny, I have my Painless Fuse box fired by the low beam and have never had a problem
It doesn't matter if anything is on or off when connected to the low beam as the load shed shuts off the lights on start up.

Load shed is the main reason I don't use it. If you have a battery augmented GPS, like a Quest or zumo, that's OK, but when I was running with a 2820 and trying to save continuous track logs it was a real PIA, which is why I went with the GPS connector for the zumo and directly to the battery for the older GPS's. I also hated the audio drop from the intercom when starting after a fillup.

That said, lowbeam is the only way to go for driving lights and other big loads, like heated clothing, I still use it to control a relay for those things, just to try to save the battery on those cold morning starts.

[JamesM]

My bike is in the shop, so I can't go check, but me thinks that the parking lights are on with the ignition, and the low beam doesn't come on until the engine is running. I am gonna use the low-beam to fire the relay, even though the draw is insubstantial. The accessories that I don't want to shut of with the key, will be connected to the second, directly connected Centech.

[philspace]

My bike is in the shop, so I can't go check, but me thinks that the parking lights are on with the ignition, and the low beam doesn't come on until the engine is running. I am gonna use the low-beam to fire the relay, even though the draw is insubstantial. The accessories that I don't want to shut of with the key, will be connected to the second, directly connected Centech.

They will both shut off with the key, the only difference is the parking lights stay on at engine start and can also be left on intentionally with the key out.

[JamesM]

They will both shut off with the key, the only difference is the parking lights stay on at engine start and can also be left on intentionally with the key out.

Phil, you are correct! I hadn't thought about being able to leave the parking lights on with the key in the off position, but now that you mention it, I do remember reading that in the book. HMMMMM. Maybe I'm gonna rethink my second Centech..LOL. The only thing that I am really concerned with having power all the time is the Garmin (I use the trip computer) and one relay fired centech might very well work. I am just wondering if the draw from the parking lights would run the battery down if left on for say an hour or two while stopped for lunch or a long break.

[philspace]

Phil, you are correct! I hadn't thought about being able to leave the parking lights on with the key in the off position, but now that you mention it, I do remember reading that in the book. HMMMMM. Maybe I'm gonna rethink my second Centech..LOL. The only thing that I am really concerned with having power all the time is the Garmin (I use the trip computer) and one relay fired centech might very well work. I am just wondering if the draw from the parking lights would run the battery down if left on for say an hour or two while stopped for lunch or a long break.

I have everything running switched, with the exception of my GPS, which is wired directly to the battery, for just that reason. With my zumo, it's easy to spot when it is on, I've never left it running. I also remove it generally at night and always when I'm on the road, so there is no risk of killing the battery.

[grifscoots]

I have everything running switched, with the exception of my GPS, which is wired directly to the battery, for just that reason. With my zumo, it's easy to spot when it is on, I've never left it running. I also remove it generally at night and always when I'm on the road, so there is no risk of killing the battery.MY GPS is on an always hot on the Painless Fuse Block. I originally had it on the Canbus plug, but the load shed caused the GPS to cycle everytime and it would shut off while on a trip, so skrag it, always hot.

[philspace]

MY GPS is on an always hot on the Painless Fuse Block. I originally had it on the Canbus plug, but the load shed caused the GPS to cycle everytime and it would shut off while on a trip, so skrag it, always hot.

Hmmm. Interesting, my intercom system never looses a beat and it's on the CANBUS GPS connector.

That's why my GPS is on the battery as well, but not from load shed, but those longer stops when the CANBUS shuts the interface down and my track log has yet one more hole :argarg

[JamesM]

I have a friend with a new RT that has his 2610 connected to the Canbus connector, and the GPS reboots everytime he cranks his bike.

[RustyJC]

Yep, since the accessory connector is disabled about 5-10 seconds after shutdown (at the key position where the forks aren't locked) as well as during startup, this will happen. If one wants the GPS hot all the time, it will have to be wired through a fused connection directly off the battery.

Rusty

[billde]

Hi;
Need an opinion regarding the ELF highway pegs.
I have an 06 R1200RT and need some advice.
1--can the pegs stand any weight put on them.
What would happen if the grand kids stepped on them etc.
or will they only stand the weight of a boot.
2-- do they have a tendancy to vibrate loose, I think they are
held in place with a couple of set screws.

If those that have them would they do it again.

Thanks,
Bill

[grifscoots]

Hi;
Need an opinion regarding the ELF highway pegs.
I have an 06 R1200RT and need some advice.
1--can the pegs stand any weight put on them.
What would happen if the grand kids stepped on them etc.
or will they only stand the weight of a boot.
2-- do they have a tendancy to vibrate loose, I think they are
held in place with a couple of set screws.

If those that have them would they do it again.

Thanks,
BillI see no way to put the Elf pegs on the GT. But, if you think you've found it, please share!

[billde]

Grif;
Thanks for the reply.
I think you wanted to address someone else
as I have the RT.

Thanks,
Bill

[philspace]

Grif;
Thanks for the reply.
I think you wanted to address someone else
as I have the RT.

Thanks,
Bill

Methinks Bill doesn't realize he's in the GT forum :abduct:

[grifscoots]

Methinks Bill doesn't realize he's in the GT forum :abduct:I was sure hoping he'd found a way to do it, though. A leetle stretch into your third tank of gas would be nice, if you know what I mean.

[philspace]

I was sure hoping he'd found a way to do it, though. A leetle stretch into your third tank of gas would be nice, if you know what I mean.

Me too. I had them on my RT and really miss them. We were riding back from NY and I looked through the mirror and saw spacewife with her feet up on hers at about 400 miles into the ride, it brought back fond memories. I need my old man smiley.

[grifscoots]

Me too. I had them on my RT and really miss them. We were riding back from NY and I looked through the mirror and saw spacewife with her feet up on hers at about 400 miles into the ride, it brought back fond memories. I need my old man smiley.Running with a leg straight out in the wind with nada to hang it on just doesn't quite do it, eh?

[Meese]

Running with a leg straight out in the wind with nada to hang it on just doesn't quite do it, eh?Now Grif, are you sure you're posting in the right forum? :D

Actually, the GT has built-in highway pegs. On long, boring slab runs I can get my calf up on top of the flat part of the fairing, just below the grip. After a few minutes, I switch legs. Gets some funny looks from other drivers, but it really stretches out those hamstrings. If I had a backrest, I'm sure I could get both legs up there at the same time. :eek:

[AndrewE]

I have just read this long thread and now I'm confused considering the different ways of installing accessories on my bike given the Canbus. Could anyone please help me with what I'm planning to do will not void the manufacturers warranty or cause any damage to my K2006 GT? My dealer does not know.........
I was planning to draw the current from the GPS plug( I already have the connector) in front of the battery to energize the Baehr Ultima XL(it will go under the passanger seat where I already cleared the space with my dremmel and it is a perfect fit), GPS(276C) and Radar escort 9500i. It does not bother me that it remains on for few seconds before they turn off.
I would like to avoid soldering the cables (something I did with my RT) so the Centech box looks interesting not only because it is a fuse box but that it will help to keep the wiring installation clean.
Can anyone please clarify:
Do I need to install a relay?
Centech box vs blue sea or ?(The smaller the better)
Power req. for the accessories should not be over 3 Amp so if what I read in another thread the plug can handle up to 7 amps, is this correct?
Any other ideas more than welcome..........
Again, thanks for any help

[grifscoots]

I have just read this long thread and now I'm confused considering the different ways of installing accessories on my bike given the Canbus. Could anyone please help me with what I'm planning to do will not void the manufacturers warranty or cause any damage to my K2006 GT? My dealer does not know.........
I was planning to draw the current from the GPS plug( I already have the connector) in front of the battery to energize the Baehr Ultima XL(it will go under the passanger seat where I already cleared the space with my dremmel and it is a perfect fit), GPS(276C) and Radar escort 9500i. It does not bother me that it remains on for few seconds before they turn off.
I would like to avoid soldering the cables (something I did with my RT) so the Centech box looks interesting not only because it is a fuse box but that it will help to keep the wiring installation clean.
Can anyone please clarify:
Do I need to install a relay?
Centech box vs blue sea or ?(The smaller the better)
Power req. for the accessories should not be over 3 Amp so if what I read in another thread the plug can handle up to 7 amps, is this correct?
Any other ideas more than welcome..........
Again, thanks for any helpThe plug can handle 7amps. It's always a good idea to relay AND fuse your fuse box.

[hazard]

Checkout tourtech canbus helper, similar to centech. Built in relay and sealed in epoxy. If you current needs are not that much, its an alternative. Only a singe fuse 15 amp fuse.
I trigger mine off the GPS adapter. You have to set it up on the vertical to let any moisture runoff. If you suspect you may have higher power needs, centech, or painless. However if you do have large needs, then triggering off the delay circuit may not be the best.

My .02

I have just read this long thread and now I'm confused considering the different ways of installing accessories on my bike given the Canbus. Could anyone please help me with what I'm planning to do will not void the manufacturers warranty or cause any damage to my K2006 GT? My dealer does not know.........
I was planning to draw the current from the GPS plug( I already have the connector) in front of the battery to energize the Baehr Ultima XL(it will go under the passanger seat where I already cleared the space with my dremmel and it is a perfect fit), GPS(276C) and Radar escort 9500i. It does not bother me that it remains on for few seconds before they turn off.
I would like to avoid soldering the cables (something I did with my RT) so the Centech box looks interesting not only because it is a fuse box but that it will help to keep the wiring installation clean.
Can anyone please clarify:
Do I need to install a relay?
Centech box vs blue sea or ?(The smaller the better)
Power req. for the accessories should not be over 3 Amp so if what I read in another thread the plug can handle up to 7 amps, is this correct?
Any other ideas more than welcome..........
Again, thanks for any help

[AndrewE]

Thanks!!!! :teeth

[stevedo]

Just trying to distill down the posts on the last 12 pages. I want to hook up a Zumo 550 and Autocom avi pro. I do not plan to hook up anything else to the bike e.g. heated clothing.

From what I've read I think the following would make sense.
1. Connect Zumo directly to the battery, the lead supplied has a built-in fuse. Connecting this way will ensure that the unit does not restart every time I start the bike?
2. Install Autocom under the seat and power from the accessory socket under the battery cover using the BMW connector lead. I don't have the Autocom unit yet but as far as I know it has an internal fuse?

Does this proposal make sense or introduce any possible issues? I had considered a device such as the Cenntech but do not really see the reason for it given that I only want to connect the Zumo and Autocom. Is this right?

Many Thanks
Steve

[Meese]

That should work fine, Steve. The Autocom should have a fuse in its power cord.

The only issue is that you'll have to remember to shut off the Zumo manually when you're done riding for the day.

[grifscoots]

And be sure to ground the Autocom directly to the battery.

[stevedo]

Thanks Ken and grif. I feel an exciting weekend coming on :teeth

[BCDon]

Man this post just won't die. I'm in the process (finally) of hooking up my electronics. I'm using the plug in front of the battery and the nefarious plug in module with wires "1", "2" and "3". I'm using that to power a relay which in turn will power my Centech unit. The Centech unit will be doublesidedstickytaped to the top of the battery. I won't mind replacing that every few years. The relay is up on the left hand side of the bike.

I will powering the following from the AP-1:
1) Zumo.
2) Bell Radar Detector.
3) Mixit2 to get the sound all together.
4) I'll plug my heated vest into that as well (if I need to use it).
5) In the future I'll likely run some additional driving lights.

I didn't want to cut into any wiring looms or use the "clip on" connectors to get power (or solder into existing wiring). The above setup only requires that I run one additional wire to the battery positive and one to the battery negative. I will solder all connections (wire to round bracket). And, I'll solder wire #3 from the plug to the relay to power it.

I should have this all set up tomorrow morning so I can try it out and make sure all grounds are OK, the units work OK and I don't get any extra noise introduced.

Seeing as I leave Sunday morning bright and early I don't have a lot of time to get this all perfected (and mount my stuff).

[grifscoots]

Balls of steel, Don. I like to run stuff in and my rule of thumb is to give a new addition about a thousand miles before a long trip and don't do anything to the bike before.

[kbikeinbc]

Hi folks,

I was into the dealership for my first 600 mile maintenance last Tuesday, and I ordered a specific accessory plug for feeding my Garmin 276C GPS. There are 2 accessory outlets on the Canbus system that allow one to drain power: 1 in the front, under the tank panel that hides the battery (it is zip tied to a framepart, and has a rubber cover on it), and 1 in the back under the seat (which I wasn't able to locate yet up until now).

There are 3 wires on the accessory outlet: 1 with a brown wire (must be ground), 1 with a red-and-white wire (should be +12V), and thirdly 1 with a I think blue-and-another-color wire. Does anybody know the function of this wire? The dealer tech couldn't answer very definitive, he thought it was a wire to power instrument lighting or the like, but he was not sure at all. He indicated however that the +12V would stay on for 15 to 30 seconds after the ignition was turned off.
As a complement let me tell you that the brown and red-and-white wire are positioned in the connector side by side, whereas the third wire is positioned on top of the connector between the 2 other wires, if that helps.

Rather than do the guessing, I would like to rely on the wisdom of this forum to find out the function of the third wire? Does anybody know?

I will receive my accessory connector tomorrow in the snailmail, so would appreciate knowing how to wire it to my Garmin 276C power cable.

Thx

Luc


So my question is, does anyone know exactley where the accessory outlet is under the rear seat area of a 07 k1200 gt?? The post above seems to indicate there is one thats the same as the one up front near the battery.
Anyone know where it is? seems like a lot easier to mount an AutoCom at the rear if the power is the same as the front connector. A lot less running of wires and removal of plastic. Any ideas anyone??
thanks...kbikeinbc
07 k1200 gt

[kbikeinbc]

So my question is, does anyone know exactley where the accessory outlet is under the rear seat area of a 07 k1200 gt?? The post above seems to indicate there is one thats the same as the one up front near the battery.
Anyone know where it is? seems like a lot easier to mount an AutoCom at the rear if the power is the same as the front connector. A lot less running of wires and removal of plastic. Any ideas anyone??
thanks...kbikeinbc
07 k1200 gt

[grifscoots]

So my question is, does anyone know exactley where the accessory outlet is under the rear seat area of a 07 k1200 gt?? The post above seems to indicate there is one thats the same as the one up front near the battery.
Anyone know where it is? seems like a lot easier to mount an AutoCom at the rear if the power is the same as the front connector. A lot less running of wires and removal of plastic. Any ideas anyone??
thanks...kbikeinbc
07 k1200 gtThere isn't one.

[kbikeinbc]

yup..your right....looked throught the last couple a hundred posts...looks like the autocom is getting power from the from gps connector,,,,,,,,

thanks!

[silvervifer]

Have I missed something in the last 13 pages... where the hell can a person in the UK buy part number 83 300 413 585 ??? MaxBMW only ship to the USA and Canada?

Thanks

[grifscoots]

Have I missed something in the last 13 pages... where the hell can a person in the UK buy part number 83 300 413 585 ??? MaxBMW only ship to the USA and Canada?

ThanksIf I had it to do over again, I'd just whack the end of plug off and go directly wire to wire. I promise you, you won't be plugging and unplugging it on a daily basis, if ever.

[silvervifer]

Yes - that does seem the best and easiest plan. Thanks Grif

I feel a weekend of playing coming on!!

[harbor]

i actually have an 03 k12rs and i have been searching for the 3wire accessory connector. since my bike is alittle bit older, i can seem to find the same description of where it is. I would really appreciate it if someone can help me locate the same wire for my 03 bike. thanks.

[Meese]

i actually have an 03 k12rs and i have been searching for the 3wire accessory connector. since my bike is alittle bit older, i can seem to find the same description of where it is. I would really appreciate it if someone can help me locate the same wire for my 03 bike. thanks.This wire is part of the newer Can-Bus system, so there is no similar wire on the older RS bikes. Sorry.

[cuongnet]

oh, good job ! hot

[dibbley]

The P/N is the UK starts with 80 not 90, I have just ordered it.

Many thanks to all, I was wondering how to connect an Autocom.

Cheers,

Dwain.

[kbikeinbc]

Well I thought I had this beat. The auto com is wired and in the first attempt I already have a problem. ...i think...I am trying to draw power from the gps acc plug, sending 12 volts to a relay to send power to the autocom. It appears that the gps plug on my 07 gt only has switched power on lead #3 with ground being #1. #2 has no power flowing when the ignition is switched on.
From the earlier posts i thought both leads on the bmw acc lead were hot immediatley when the ignition was switched on. One is speed pulse, one being 12 volts that remains on for some time after the ignition is swithed off. Any suggestions anyone? Any help is great!
thanks in advance..
kbikeinbc
'07 gt :bmw:

[JamesM]

If you are gonna use the acc. plug in front of the battery, you need to use the red/white. The blue/green is a pulse that follows the speed of the bike, used for some GPS units.
Also, I would take my ground directly from the battery and not from the brown lead in that connector. You don't say, but I assume that you are using that connector for a relay trigger only and you are getting your power from the battery.

If you aren't connecting a fuse box, then why are you connecting a relay to that connector? Why not just power the Autocom directly from that connector (red/white) without a relay. The Autocom draws less than an amp, and that accessory connector would have no problem with that. You really only need a relay if you are installing a fuse box or some other accessory (lights) that would draw more than the output of the connector.

[TexasMule]

I haven't started wiring MuleWife's GT yet, (start this evening) but why couldn't you just tap the heated seat wiring in the back for power to the autocomm (or Baehr in my case)?

Why wouldn't this also work for the P3 lights, surely the heated seat switches are "switched" and only hot when the bike's on.

Tell me what I'm missing.

edit: unless the heated seats draw too many amps. I'll let Philbert correct me... :teeth

[Kdub]

I haven't started wiring MuleWife's GT yet, (start this evening) but why couldn't you just tap the heated seat wiring in the back for power to the autocomm (or Baehr in my case)?

Why wouldn't this also work for the P3 lights, surely the heated seat switches are "switched" and only hot when the bike's on.

Tell me what I'm missing.

edit: unless the heated seats draw too many amps. I'll let Philbert correct me... :teeth

There is only power to the heated seat leads when the heat switch is turned on. You would want to use a different power source for your intercom and/or lights.

Ken

[TexasMule]

There is only power to the heated seat leads when the heat switch is turned on. You would want to use a different power source for your intercom and/or lights.

Ken

So the wiring up to the switch is not hot. It only is hot when the switch is turned on?

How does that work? I thought most wiring would be hot before the switch, and the switch determines whether the wires are hot after the switch.

As if you couldn't tell, I'm not an EE, but a CPA.

[Kdub]

My bad I jumped to a conclusion that you were refering to the wiring under the seat.:confused: Yes of course your right on the incoming power to the switch, if in fact it is switched positive and not switched ground.

When I connected the Autocom to my GT, I used the Touratech Can Bus Helper and went direct to the battery with the power leads and connected the yellow trigger wire coming out of the Touratech to the red/white wire on the GPS plug located just in front of the battery. No issues, and it allowed me to connect other items to the fused panel.

Ken

[stubble]

It's probably been confirmed elsewhere, but I thought I'd post a quick "thanks" to those who figured this out, and an "it works" on my 06 K1200S. There's enough clearance under the front of the battery cover to install a powerlet socket on it, which when wired to the adapter mentioned here, powers my GPS just fine. So thanks!

[Lucsch]

It's probably been confirmed elsewhere, but I thought I'd post a quick "thanks" to those who figured this out, and an "it works" on my 06 K1200S. There's enough clearance under the front of the battery cover to install a powerlet socket on it, which when wired to the adapter mentioned here, powers my GPS just fine. So thanks!
You're welcome!

Rgds

Luc

[battleborn]

Where was the accessory plug in the rear under the seat located?
...thanks for the intel on this!


1 in the front, under the tank panel that hides the battery (it is zip tied to a framepart, and has a rubber cover on it), and 1 in the back under the seat (which I wasn't able to locate yet up until now).

[Meese]

. . . and 1 in the back under the seat (which I wasn't able to locate yet up until now).Yes, but exactly where under the seat?

[Lucsch]

Yes, but exactly where under the seat?

Sorry to say, there is none under the seat! I said I couldn't locate it, since there is no other accessory socket available, besides the one in the battery compartment...

Rgds

Luc

[GHP542]

Just got the GT and have read with interest all the ways to hook up electrical farkels to the Canbus system. I am thinking I want to use the GPS plug just for that. I don't know what kind of headlight the GT has but this item here would be wonderful little thing if the sockets are a match. I would like to use something like this so I don't have to break any wires.

http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/02350.htm

Can anybody confirm is this would work on a 07 GT?

Thanks

George in TN

[larrykay]

Sounds good. The part you referenced is not for the gps plug under the seat but to connect to the city marker light socket. I see a spade connector on one end of the gizmo. I don't know what is on the other end ( a socket?) and I assume the wire with no connector goes to the relay.

Where does the spade connector go? etc?

Puzzled

[GHP542]

Sounds good. The part you referenced is not for the gps plug under the seat but to connect to the city marker light socket. I see a spade connector on one end of the gizmo. I don't know what is on the other end ( a socket?) and I assume the wire with no connector goes to the relay.

Where does the spade connector go? etc?

Puzzled

Well, from what I read, it looks like it plugs into a light socket and the single wire coming out is what you use to trigger your relay. My question is does this match any of the sockets on the lights up front?

George in TN

[Meese]

It should match one of the Parking Lights, which are the two small bulbs at the top corners of the headlamp assy. These lights get switched on and off with the key and stay on when starting the bike.

The wire coming out of it supplies a low-current 12V signal to trip a relay attached to your fuse block. Some guys just trigger off the low beam feed wire, which doesn't come on until after the bike is started. This way the extra items attached to the fuse block don't add to the overall load while starting the bike.

[kbikeinbc]

This looks like a similar product that I had seen from another supplier. (the name escapes me) This is a very good way to power up a Centech or other type device. IF...the K 1200GT city light is compatible with the connector that is supplied in this kit. What I mean is that the bulb is in a rubberized holder that attaches to the back of the Tupperware. The new kit MUST have the same size and type of holder to replace the original. It acts as a splice, without actually splicing into the parking light circuit, to get the switched power. So my concern is, if the rubber holder that accepts the bulb wont fit into the same hole as the original came out of, its not 'gonna work.
anybody have any more info on this product?
Kbike in bc
'07 K1200GT
Crystal Grey Met :bmw:

[GHP542]

Well, I decided just to go ahead and order one, just to see what it looks like.

I will report on later.

[kbikeinbc]

keep me posted...im curious if it will work..

kbikeinbc
07 K1200GT
Crystal Grey Met :bmw:

[rcwagner55]

The part number you list is not identified by a BMW dealer in California. Is this the correct part number? Is it a BMW part number? If you can help, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

[kbikeinbc]

heres the link for the supplier...still not sure if it is compatible with the new style k bike however.

anyone tried this out yet?

http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/02350.htm

kbikeinbc

07 K 1200 GT
Crystal Gray Metallic

:bmw:

[JWPAGE]

Here's an update to the correct USA part number it is 83 300 413 585, & is called a "REPAIR CONNECTOR-3 POLE" The other part listed is either european or an outdated number.

:clap:

:boom:

[DAK]

Hi folks,
I've read the entire site on this topic and learned almost everything I need to wire my Garmin Nuvi 760 direct to BMW part 83300413585 (which was easily obtained in British Columbia).

Question: Garmin Nuvi 760 powers by a proprietary plug that goes into the mount and to cigaret lighter receiver power source. I cut off the cigaret lighter end intending to solder two wires to brown and red/white of BMW plug connector that plugs into the BMW monitored connector in front of battery.

BUT, Garmin wire has 10 wires inside!
1 x unshielded silver
1 x black
1 x yellow
1 x purple
1 x green
1 x blue
2 x brown
2 x red

What goes where? What about the other wires in the Nuvi to cigaret lighter cord?

Thanks in advance for any guidance. Cheers

[grifscoots]

What goes where? What about the other wires in the Nuvi to cigaret lighter cord?

Thanks in advance for any guidance. CheersI did the exact same thing to my wife's Nuvi while hardwiring it into her Z4. That plug is the FM transmitter that allows it to play thru the stereo and receive traffic alerts.

Go to the Garmin site here:
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1371
and buy the regular old power plug.

PS: I ended up soldering all them small, steenkeen wires back together, hardwired a female plug under her dash and plugged it in.

[DAK]

Damn! Yet again affirmation of the advice, "measure twice, cut once.'
When you say "PS: I ended up soldering all them small, steenkeen wires back together, hardwired a female plug under her dash and plugged it in." are you referring to re-using the cut cord for another application? If so, I could solder them all back to the original cigaret lighter plug. Right?

Does the basic power cord have just 2 wires to go to BMW #1 and #3? Thanks Cheers

[grifscoots]

Damn! Yet again affirmation of the advice, "measure twice, cut once.'The story of my life, flat learning curve.

When you say "PS: I ended up soldering all them small, steenkeen wires back together, hardwired a female plug under her dash and plugged it in." are you referring to re-using the cut cord for another application? I was installing the NUVI 770 in her car (a two seater roadster) and her grammaw mobile (a minivan), so I bought an extra cord like I linked to you. I started with that cord, and since it didn't have any dropdown voltage, wired direct. You can imagine my suprise when I cut the second one and saw all them steenkeen leetle wires. So, the cord wasn't used for another application, but for what it was intended. Fact is, I'm going to have to buy the expensive one and install it in her van simply because she likes the features.... if she ever gets her van back. Daughter is driving it after being rear ended in her VW.

If so, I could solder them all back to the original cigaret lighter plug. Right?Right. I did it, but what a pain.

Does the basic power cord have just 2 wires to go to BMW #1 and #3? Thanks CheersYes it does!

[Erik]

Not sure if this helps anyone but I just finished doing a GPS , Autocom and V1 on my 08 GT. I used the factory GPS power source up front with oem connector by the battery for my Zumo. For the Autocom and V1 I tapped into the factory accessory power outlet. Since I'd already wired in a Powerlet outlet and I won't ever use the factory outlet it was quite easy to make a little wire harness and solder it on to the now unused power outlets wires. Since it can supply at least 5 amps the miliamps the Autocom and V1 use are no issue. It all works fine ( on and off with the ignition) and there is zero noise etc. I imagine that one could also use this power source to switch on and off a Centech panel.

[DAK]

Thanks folks. :) My small contribution to this intellectual property bank (IPB). Final result of my desire to keep things simple and inexpensive and use one GPS in car and on bike (electrical tape over SDIO, etc. slots while on bike to keep out light moisture and dust): bought BMW plug for connector in front of battery. While purchasing another Nuvi 760 connector and power cord and suction cup the audio installer at Best Buy recommended against cutting off the cigaret lighter plug and soldering direct to BMW plug because it has some kind of voltage regulator in it and doing so could fry the GPS. I think the BMW line is protected in some way but since I could find room to connect cigaret lighter plug to female cigaret lighter receiver with simple power and ground wires I soldered them to #1 and #3 on BMW plug. Seems to work well. Ignition key off gives plenty of time to select GPS "off" or "run on battery power" for example when fueling. Ignition key turned off causes GPS to warn that "external power is lost" so I don't think leaving the GPS unit on the bike will drain the battery. Additionally, I soldered a second female cigaret lighter receiver to the BMW plug #1 and #3 in case I want to power a phone or such in the future. Both are tucked under the battery cover. I hope this helps someone. Cheers. Thanks for all the help.

[KLAPTRAPPER]

I had an 06 and now have an 08. With both bikes, the blue green wire was useless to power anything. Even a relay would provide sufficient low resistace for it to not pick, Even a 20 meg ohm per volt meter drains it down to about 9 volts. I find I have to use the red white wire to power anythng at all.

Rusty



Brown = ground

Red white = +12 V (stay on for +20 seconds after ignition turned off)

Blue/green = 12 V (follow the ignition key immediately)

/Anders

GT owner in Stockholm Sweden.

PS wonderful bike!!!
:)

[Wayfarer]

Great timing! I had been following this thread because I too am trying to obtain the connector for this plug to wire my GPS using the number provided. My local BMW dealer says that this is not a number they can identify. Any suggestions on how or where to get this part?

Gary

[Meese]

The blue/green wire is not a power wire. It gives a speed pulse, which is a signal that increases based on how fast the bike is traveling. This is used on some GPS systems to maintain speed and position calculations when the satellite signal is lost (tunnels, forests, tall buildings, etc.). Most plug-in gps units don't use this feature, but some of the factory integrated units do (like on a Gold Wind or a passenger car).

So for our purposes ignore the blue/green wire, and use the red/white wire as +12V power and the brown wire as ground.

[Meese]

My local BMW dealer says that this is not a number they can identify. Any suggestions on how or where to get this part?I think the original part number changed over time. Further down in the thread are several references to the new part#:

83 300 413 585 ... REPAIR CONNECTOR-3 P S ... $21.11

A good way to check part numbers and current prices is to look at the Chicago BMW (http://www.chicagobmwmotorcycle.com/store/) website. In the upper left corner is an Item Search box, Just plug in the part number there and see what you get. :)

[jumper]

You guys are correct, I am having that problem right now. The install was very simple, but not complete. The bulb when attached to the new end is WAY to short and fat to fit back into the light socket.

Hopefully, there is someone out there smarter than me. The part it self works fine and simple design, just the fitting issue.

Dave -Albany :(

[RoadKing299]

I had ordered one of these from MAX BMW, and it was shipped promptly. The big day finally came, and I spent the morning/afternoon stripping the tupperware in preparation for wiring.
When I was finally able to access the left side parking lamp, I found that the bulb is mounted on a two-inch (or so) tube, so that it can reach into the headlamp assembly. I also seem to recall that the bulb has two pins on it, and no flat spade-like connector like the adaptor.
Somewhere in my travels online I thought I saw that there is a different adaptor that will accomodate this bulb-mounting tube, but I have been unable to relocate the post.
Months later (a week ago) when I had my bike at MAX's for service, I asked them if they carried a different adaptor, and the Parts woman insisted that I had the right one, and they've never had a problem with it.
So I said, ok, you install it, which they did.
The caveat, as explained by the installing tech, is that the parking light bulb they plugged it into no longer reaches as far into the headlamp as it used to, giving it the appearance of being dimmer than it's mate on the other side of the headlight.
I'm going to live with it, but I'm not terribly pleased. The issue is that cold weather is coming back, and I had disconnected my Gerber's plug that was directly wired to the battery. So I might as well install the fuse block and relay that I had purchased back in MAY 09 so that I can have my heated gloves and jacket back, and maybe even stop using 9-volt batteries to power my AutoCom.
What I think I've picked up here is that I should ground my AutoCom directly to the battery in order to avoid engine noise, correct?
And I'm leaving the BMW accessory plug alone, as I plan on installing the Zumo at a later date.
The main advantage that I can gather from using this adaptor is that it has a diode wired into it, preventing any voltage spikes from going back into the bike's tender system from the accessories.
If anyone has seen the GT adaptor, please let me know so.

[abercrombie_pafoofnick]

Check out the Fuzeblock too. I've got one dual locked to the top of my Odyssey battery and it works great! Can wire items switched or hot all the time. www.fuzeblocks.com