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Want your K1200 clutch to feel like the new K1300?

38K views 25 replies 21 participants last post by  cgrosu 
#1 ·
Thought that would grab your attention! Just had my bike back from my local BMW dealer (Vines, UK) for them to assess the judder in my clutch on my 08 K1200GT with 4000 miles. They agreed it shouldn't judder as much as it did and changed the clutch plates yesterday morning but ,importantly, they have also changed the spec of oil that the clutch is running in to 5W (as per the 1300) instead of the 10W that was previously spec-ed by BMW.

This upgrade was only announced yesterday by BMW in the UK so my bike would appear to be one of the first 1200's to have the change and the difference is like night and day......the clutch is now so, so smooth and progressive, with all hints of judder or sudden take-up eliminated.

Three techs from the dealership test-rode it yesterday and all said the bike felt as good as a 1300 clutch set-up.

Well worth doing. Of course I can't personally tell you how much of the change is down to the new clutch plates as opposed to the change in oil spec, but the techs were very keen to credit a lot of the improvement to the oil change.
 
#3 ·
Not sure what bearing in the foot controls has to do with the clutch lever, but BMW also increased the size of the clutch slave cylinder. That probably produced the biggest change in feel of the new K1300.

If you want one of these, Ken at Evoluzione sells a larger slave cylinder for our K1200's.
 
#4 ·
under warranty

Did they replace the clutch plates under warranty? I recently requested mine to be replaced due to 'rattle' when engine is idle but BMW said that that was normal - but did mention something about a lighter oil (my dealer 'Maddocks' in Dublin Ireland) said that they used the 'new' oil - but now am not sure.

Adrian
 
#5 ·
My 07 GT clutch started sqwauking (judder) on take off, vibration in neutral was minor.

The dealer replaced the clutch plates, along with the new super 'spensive recommended oil. Judder is gone for now, but the vibration in neutral (clutch lever out) is much worse.

All was done under warranty.... but it sure seems like I traded one problem for another...

The engine doesn't seem as smooth in cruise either, but it is difficult to tell if this is the clutch vibration or improper synchronization of the intake system. All this took place at the 24,000 mile service...


:boom:
 
#8 ·
I'm on my fourth clutch. Yes, the judder goes away for a while, but for me, it always came back. Sometimes in as little as 2,000 miles. :( So now I just keep riding the damn thing.

As for oil, the current BMW spec for engine oil is:
4L Motor Oil Power 1 Racing 4T 5W-40 BMW Part# 83 12 2 153 837

I don't have a current price from BMW, but I have gotten similar oil from Cycle Gear. Look for:
4L Repsol Moto Racing 4T 100% Synth SAE 10W-50 $56.99 (4 liter jug)

This meets BMW's JASO spec. Note that BMW used to recommend the 10W-50, but now recommends 5W-40. It looks like the Repsol 4T is also available in a 5W-40 weight.
 
#11 ·
I think the plates had way more to do with the repair than the oil did. Was castrol used in your GT its whole life or some other brand oil? I have personaly use valvoline cycle oil myself as I have had issues with castrol on previous motorcycles I have serviced,owned. Still haven't seen the jitter in 12,000 miles On my personal KS
 
G
#12 · (Edited)
I've only used 10w-40 since the 600mi service up to 5800mi in my K13S which was BMW's dino 10w-40 (who really knows what was put in at factory). Since that 2nd service to the current 14,000mi, only Amsoil synthetic 10w-40 MCF has been used. Bike has never experienced slightest hint of shudder. The key for proper wet clutch operation is having an MA spec oil, which is noted in the K manuals. Not all motorcycle oils have MA additive; must be shown somewhere on the bottle to be sure. MA spec oil can obviously be used even in dry clutch bikes. Amsoil meets the higher MA2 wet clutch spec.
 
#14 ·
oh goodie-oil thread :clap: WallyMart Shell Rotella Syn-10/40-no problems, no jutter, no slip and $26bucks for 5 qts. 30k miles- and it is WallyMart spec! :rotf: There you have it oil experts. :yeow:
 
#16 ·
Erik said:
JASO MA rated,
And that bears repeating. Shell representatives had previously said (on the Rotella forum on their website) that Rotella met JASO MA specs, but up until now it was not actually listed as such on the label. Now it is so that should ease anyone's qualms about using Rotella in motorcycle applications. The 5W-40 synthetic is good stuff, and now the JASO rating is the cherry on top.
 
#18 ·
rebeltown said:
But has anyone's clutch "screech" when starting out in 1st gear gone away after changing to one of these oils? Probably not... :(
I have seen a few reports of a change of oil formation temporarily curing the problem, but it often seems to come back. I don't have any personal experience because I've never had the problem occur so much as once on my 07' GT... go figure...
 
#19 ·
I've been running some Amsoil crap I got from an independent Harley mechanic and I haven't experienced any clutch issues. Same for the final drive which, surprisingly, got better on the second change of Amsoil gear oil than the first according to Blackstone Labs. Go figger. :confused:


Mack
 
#20 ·
I developed the screech on startouts in first around 4k miles and hasn't changed much over the last 12k or so. I've tried different oils and viscocities every time I changed oils for awhile and never saw any improvement. I've learned to live with it but still curse BMW for not doing anything about it... :wtf:
 
#21 ·
On my 08 I had the clutch squeel from day one and just kept docuementimng it everytime UI brought it in for service. When they chnged to the syn oil made a diffence for couple of hundred miles and came back. Finally at the 18,000 servive it was chattering pretty bad and the dealer replace. Have been very happy with everyone at Vventrua BMW.
 
#24 ·
Clutch Squawk & Shudder

I was recently told (by Joe at Big Sky BMW) that there is a service bulletin concerning the clutch squawk and shudder. The bulletin states that the clutch bolt needs to be retorqued (reduced) from the original factory spec. Haven't had it done yet.

Gerry
 
#26 ·
I suggest (if possible) to add a poll to this thread:

options:
1. I changed the clutch oil with a 'better' one, problem solved
2. I changed the clutch bolt, problem solved
3. I tried different solutions, the k12r clutch is garbage
4. other

I am curious if the problem was solved and what is the best solution ...if any.

Cristian
 
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