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Skinny on the Cam chain guard

114K views 247 replies 57 participants last post by  DougM 
#1 ·
Ok so the newer style tensioner is old news by now, so if ya haven't yet its time to get that done, both old and new are hydrolic but the new has holes in the mounting plate and the cap that bolts where the old plate did acts as a reservior. The deal with the "chaintooth jump guard", is pretty simple, remove clutch/crankend cover and it snaps into place over the existing guard casted into the case then held in place with the cover, adding additional protection to keep the chain from skipping a tooth should something cause it to. I should have done all of this myself, but the other day on the phone with the dealer this was new as of last month and the service bulletin was not all that clear as to what held the guard in place so I opted to pay and watch this time, education comes with a tuition price and this one was about two and a half hrs. shop time on the first go, but its only about an hour and a half job, this guy is a clean freak, after finishing he was back there with a can of cleaner in one hand and a fresh micro-fiber cloth in the other removeing any trace he'd been there. They did it on saturday, a good job while I waited so I paid cash and thanked them. The parts, gastet, tensioner kit, guard and one time screws etc. run about two bills plus labor, 400 dallars for the peace of mind that I've done all that can be to this point to prevent cam chain/related failures.
 
#127 ·
BMWON Article

The wrenching article in the most recent edition of the Owners News is all about the hydraulic cam chain tensioners, failure on one F650 was at 3,000 miles (caught before major damage, as the owner was taking it out to help a guy with another 650 that had a problem). So two F650s with the issue. I'm no wrench, I can remove fairing panels and snake wires. Not confident I can tackle this job. Wait until 18K miles or get'er done now? :dunno:
 
#128 ·
If you have even minor mechanical ability then you can do the jump guard and the tensioner if it hasn't been done yet.....your self...easy. Even a complete novice should be able to knock out both jobs in under 2 hours. They really are simple procedures. The hardest part is removing and replacing the tupperware!
 
#129 ·
Robert, thanks. Something I am thinking about, there's that apprehension of cracking open the engine. Tupperware is not a problem. I wouldn't know the first thing about verifying the functionality of the new tensioner, I'm only 4K from the 12K service and what are the odds I have a GT with a failed tensioner, but in the same respect what are the odds of me pulling into an intersection when someone fails to obey a traffic device? Don't need these hassles on top of other issues you already have to face when you decide to ride. I enjoy the bike so much. :deadhorse
 
#130 ·
Seamuis said:
The wrenching article in the most recent edition of the Owners News is all about the hydraulic cam chain tensioners, failure on one F650 was at 3,000 miles (caught before major damage, as the owner was taking it out to help a guy with another 650 that had a problem). So two F650s with the issue. I'm no wrench, I can remove fairing panels and snake wires. Not confident I can tackle this job. Wait until 18K miles or get'er done now? :dunno:
One thing to consider for a DIY job like this is down line fights with the dealer or BMW if something goes wrong.

I'm sure I could do this job, but if it does go kaboom at some point I don't any fingers poining at me. For this reason and this reason alone I let MY dealer do all the work on my BMW's.
 
#131 ·
There are countless threads here where people have had no one but BMW-approved shops work on their bikes and still had to fight with the dealer or BMW when something went wrong. That factor alone doesn't seem like much reason to pay someone a small fortune to do work that you can easily do yourself, but as always it's an individual decision.
 
#132 ·
smiller said:
There are countless threads here where people have had no one but BMW-approved shops work on their bikes and still had to fight with the dealer or BMW when something went wrong. That factor alone doesn't seem like much reason to pay someone a small fortune to do work that you can easily do yourself, but as always it's an individual decision.
From personal experience, input from the dealer carries some weight with BMWNA if/when there is a problem. Not a lot of weight, but some. Building a relationship with the dealer may be of some advantage when the problem(s) arise. Of course it depends on the dealer as some are so clueless that they are worse than useless in this regard. So you pays your money and you takes your chances. :)
 
#133 ·
I was asking my dealer (via email) about this chain guard, he replaied by saying he is ordering a tensioner? I thought the tensioner would have been done before I even took delivery (they said they had done all the updates prior to delivery, although they did have to do the antenna ring surrounding the ignition lock afterwards).
I have to bring it in for the brake hose and rear suspension link thingie on recalls, so they'll do it at that time.
Gilly
 
#134 ·
GillyWI said:
I was asking my dealer (via email) about this chain guard, he replied by saying he is ordering a tensioner? I thought the tensioner would have been done before I even took delivery (they said they had done all the updates prior to delivery, although they did have to do the antenna ring surrounding the ignition lock afterwards).
I have to bring it in for the brake hose and rear suspension link thingie on recalls, so they'll do it at that time.
Gilly
Gilly, what year again is your GT?
 
#135 ·
2007 (I bought it new Aug 08, was what you would call a "leftover" bike so got a good deal on it, so they would have had ample opportunity to do updates on it as they became available. IDK if the airbox was ever done either, but it has been running just fine for me.)
 
#136 ·
Miles?

GillyWI said:
2007 (I bought it new Aug 08, was what you would call a "leftover" bike so got a good deal on it, so they would have had ample opportunity to do updates on it as they became available. IDK if the airbox was ever done either, but it has been running just fine for me.)
How many miles do you have on your bike? Tick,Tick, Tick... :boom:
 
#139 ·
GillyWI said:
2007 (I bought it new Aug 08, was what you would call a "leftover" bike so got a good deal on it, so they would have had ample opportunity to do updates on it as they became available. IDK if the airbox was ever done either, but it has been running just fine for me.)
Are you aware of the updated service bulletin that stated if the bike has more than 12k miles DON'T do just the tensioner update? I think, but don't know, that after 12k, the tensioner along with the cam chain and gears need to be replaced.



 
#140 ·
Cam chain, gears, tensioner and guard? Sounds like one way to make the "do it yourself job" a little more questionable and more of an opportunity for the dealer to generate revenue. :spank1:
 
#141 ·
Ok, I don't know, then. Maybe the tensioner and the guard is all that is needed if it's more than 12k. BMW isn't going to be to forthcoming about what's really going on. I did read that the gears, chain, and tensioner were replaced in one upgrade process, but that may have been before the guard came out.



 
#142 ·
Dealer said he had no record of the tensioner (or airbox) being done. His opinion and mine is that if the airbox hasn't been a problem that we should leave it alone; I have a good one.
He's going to update the tensioner though, I am just over 10,000mi.
Said the chain guard requires removing both side covers and won't do it.
I said my battery seems less than peppy lately and said he will warranty that as the bike sat a year before being sold, so that's nice of him :clap:

Gilly
 
#143 ·
GillyWI said:
.....
(Dealer) Said the chain guard requires removing both side covers and won't do it.
It does not require removal of both sides to replace. Scary if a dealer said that. Means they haven't done one yet too.

I did it myself in about an hour and you just take off the right fairing and the clutch cover. Seems you don't even need to do the gasket, just maybe the 18 bolts that they recommend to replace (one-time use, or in my case, galled and maybe pulled threads from the factory.) and those are the costly part of the job.

Personally, I'd do the guard over the adjuster since the new tensioners don't always hold pressure if your read some of the 650 tensioner issues in the last BMW Owners magazine. Tensioner is easier to do though once you find the external Torx socket to fit it (or 1/4" box ignition wrench with a 12 point side to it).


Mack
 
#144 ·
GillyWI said:
Dealer said he had no record of the tensioner (or airbox) being done. His opinion and mine is that if the airbox hasn't been a problem that we should leave it alone; I have a good one.
He's going to update the tensioner though, I am just over 10,000mi.
Said the chain guard requires removing both side covers and won't do it.
I said my battery seems less than peppy lately and said he will warranty that as the bike sat a year before being sold, so that's nice of him :clap:

Gilly
Gilly ....agreed on the air box. If you have no BBS or crappy throttle don't touch it.

But the not doing the jump guard....and the reason being that both sides nee to be removed is BS. :manure: Do both the tensioner AND the jump guard.

It really is a very simple procedure. Either have a little heart to heart with the guy, find another dealer, or do it yourself. So far....definitely worth doing. Cheap easy insurance.
 
#147 ·
Gilly, they would already have to have the side panel off to replace the tensioner...which in and of itself is a stupidly easy 10 or 15 minute job. But any tech / shop worth their salt should literally be able to replace the guard in another 30 minutes MAX while they are at it. 15 to 20 if they put their mind to it and weren't flapping their jaws or distracted. Don't let them tell you otherwise.
 
#149 ·
GillyWI said:
Is this really a "replacement" or is it installing something that isn't currently there?
The cam chain guard is a new part entirely, which costs less than $7 and simply presses into place. The only real expense is the non-reusseable bolts, but even so, all the parts cost under $40, or under $65 if you also replace the gasket (which isn't strictly necessary).

So the dealer's hesitation most likely stems from the fact that they simply haven't done one yet.

If it was me, I'd either push to have them do it when they do the tensioner, or simply do it myself.

It's just that important.

See details and pics in this post from earlier in this same thread.
 
#151 ·
Thanks Meese for posting the page with all the parts, I was just about to re-read the thread to get the various part numbers for both updates. I plan to do this one myself on an '07, (had since new). It just came back from the dealer for the 12,000 mile annual service and the three latest recalls; antenna, brake and suspension link. First time I started it up this spring I heard a brief bit of the rocky sounds you all have described. Don't think I've heard that before but it may be that I'm sensitized to that after reading about it here.

I gotta say that I am very appreciative of the info, comments and venting that gets shared here. I've had similar issues with other pieces of machinery in the past and had to go it alone, which ain't much fun. Its never fun dealing with these issues especially if you're on the road but this place helps make it a bit more manageable. My hats off to all of you!
 
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