K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion - View Single Post - New Member from Akron, Ohio
View Single Post
post #9 of (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 2019, 3:50 am
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 135
When you get into that Clutch; See what you have in there before buying anything and what ever you do, it's not necessary to buy new factory stuff. The entire package from Beemer is right around $2000 if I recall correctly. First see if the Basket is bare Alum. or Black. If it's Black, you already have a 1300 Clutch and there will be no gain in buying another one unless the inside rails where the Fiber Plates run are worn and burred up badly. The Black color is Hard Anodizing and was done at the beginning of the 1300 series run to keep these areas from wearing as badly as the bare Alum. Baskets of the 1200s. Hard Anodizing is many times harder then bare Alum. and will last much longer. They also made other improvements like increased oiling and a redone Plate Stack to help release issues.

If you are still suffering with a 1200 Clutch (bare Alum.), go with the 1300 unit COMPLETE. You will need the entire assembly: Basket, Hub, Plate Stack, Oil Pump Sprocket (at rear), and the Throw-out Bearing Rod with the 2 oil grooves. You should be able to find all this for less then $800. If you'd like a new plate stack, a set of Barnetts are less then $150. The guy at Rubbersideup in Texas will know everything you need. I don't known them personally but have bought a bunch of parts from them and haven't been screwed around yet. There are no doubt many other online parts places that may have 1300 Clutches as well. Just shop thoroughly, take your time, and be sure it is complete.

The most important thing at this point is; Does the Clutch Chatter presently? If not, it likely has already been worked on and may have a 1300 unit installed. If it does chatter presently, Do all the above. Don't put it off because the chatter is hammering away at your entire Dive-Line and isn't doing your Transmission any good at all. I have seen that Trans replacement is pretty common with 2nd Gen K-Bikes and I'd say it's overwhelmingly attributable to the Clutch issues.

I also changed out the Drive Shaft to a 1300 version because they added a set of Rubber Cushions in the barrel to help absorb the "Shift Clunk" that still generates from the Clutch Plate's poor release characteristics. You can find 1300 Drive Shafts for under $100. You differentiate 1300 Shafts by the series of oval shaped welds visible on the Main Barrel that locate the tabs holding the rubber cushons inside. A 1200 Shaft is just smooth all over.
SpaceViking is offline  
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome