Front tire removal tool - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 2010, 10:07 pm Thread Starter
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Front tire removal tool

I was just reading a thread from 05 about front tire removal and the 22mm hex tool needed to remove the front bolt. What I did was went to hardware store and bought a bolt and 2 nuts that fit in the hex bolt of the bike. I welded the nuts to the bolt one at the end and the other to slip into the bike bolt.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 2010, 4:28 pm
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Or you can use a 13/16" spark plug socket turned around backwards. perfect fit and probably in your tool box

07 BMW K1200 S (cosmic blue/titan silver)
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 2010, 1:05 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allikanbe1
Or you can use a 13/16" spark plug socket turned around backwards. perfect fit and probably in your tool box
++ Probable too late for you but for those who are about to remove ft wheel-I recently took off both wheels and brought them to dealer for tire change-saved myself $150. Rear is simple, up on CS-remove 2 nuts suspending can and just loosen big clamp behind O2 sensor. Swing can down and remove wheel--Don't forget to loosen wheel bolts B4 raising bike. I did one wheel at a time-just to b safe. Took rear into dealer for change-remounted back and then front. A spark plug socket (Craftsman)-removed inner rubber ment to hold onto SP-other end is perfect fit with extension (in the spark plug side) and breaker bar-presto! Just loosened-no need to remove the right (sitting on bike) pinch bolt. Wheel bearing were fine. On reinstall ft just a little axle grease-not for bearings as they are sealed-just to prevent rust. Raising front, with back tire reinstalled and still on CS, just used a bottle jack and slim wooden shim under header-no ned to remove any tupperware-it is pretty strong and all you are really doing is tilting her back 1/2 inch to slide wheel out with fender removed. Torque up bolts when she is back on the ground. No need like older designs to compress suspension b4 torquing pinch bolt to align. Just b Really careful when rolling out ft wheel not to bend or damage ABS ring (on left side). Also put some masking tape on rim of wheel where calipers are going to b removed so as not to scratch rim-left caliper is tighter fit than rt side and will hit the rim to remove it. On the subject of caliper-Never touch brake lever with caliper removed--bad things will happen. Before remounting caliper use a big screw driver to push (not sharp end)-just slid in btwn the pucks and move side to side to push them back out for remounting. When u are ready to ride B carefull. Will take a couple of squeezes on brake to get the pads back to where they should b. Probable too long a post--got carried away

Marin Phil
2013 K13S-Anniv ED
'06 K12GT Blue of course!_Sold-too many problems
'05 Ducati 999-My Italian Mistress_sold and missed
2004 K12 GT-Orient Blue-the new me.-Sold
about 30 before that but too old to remember them all..
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2010, 3:47 pm
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So glad this thread is here....I'm into the cord of my rear and ready to mount new tires tomorrow and was searching the bike's 'tool box' for the necessary tools to remove the rear and front wheel. Remembered this thread, did a search and viola...ready to pull those suckers and get going. Thanks!

PR2 (ct) going on tomorrow, will advise how they feel now that they are available in the 190/55 for the K1300S.

Jim Douglas
'00 K1200RS >135,000 mi, '09 K1300S sold @ 22,232 mi
'93 K1100RS traded up @ 78,000 mi, '85 K100RS sold @44,000 mi, Kawi 650 track bike - sold
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2010, 5:37 pm
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I must be a masochist, but I take some sort of glee smashing my fingers, cussing, throwing stuff, and drinking beer while fighting with primitive tools called "tire irons." For 40 years I keep telling myself "I'll take 'em to the dealer next time!" Never seems to work out that way though.

Not really that hard to do if you got the right irons, rim savers, some bead breaker of some sort (I like a good 10 pound dead blow hammer with that Aerostitch bead-popper chisel to work off pent up steam), some Yamaha Tire Mounting Lube, and a Marc Paynes balancer thing (I can balance them down to a penny with it.) suspended between two cheapo Harbor Freight car jacks (preferably their aluminum ones that don't weigh much), and a big old blanket to throw down on the back yard lawn to get it done.


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 2010, 8:02 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allikanbe1
Or you can use a 13/16" spark plug socket turned around backwards. perfect fit and probably in your tool box
It seems in the took kit from a K100RS it has a spark plug socket that fits perfectly. I may be mistaken.

Also, here's a easy and cheap way to break the bead.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/bead-...ad-breaker.htm
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 3rd, 2010, 5:18 pm
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Well, I did not think of the spark plug wrench from the K bikes, but remembering the size of them and seeing the size of the 13/16" wrench END, I don't think it would work. Actually what I ended up with was a bit more involved. I knew I had at least one if not two 13/16th sockets somewhere but have moved too many times to know which box, And my T50 torxe socket is in the same box, not on the rail....so I got a new T50 - but of course in our small town is only available in a kit - and the three larger sizes require a 1/2" drive, so that required a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter (cause mine was where the T50 and sockets are....) So, I get home with the new stuff....Both old 13/16 sockets are in my box: 1st the hex end is TOO large and the second is round to the top. Fortunately the brand new one fits the axle BUT - the drive slot goes round so I can't stick my new extension in backwards. BUT - my old metric sparkplug socket is a hex head and it fit into the 13/16 well enough to do the trick.....what an improvised too. But it worked really well. Got the tires off (the harder part) and new ones on past the pressure guage. Looking forward to the first ride soon. For a more permanent tool I will do the spot weld of a nut onto the appropriate (22mm) bolt.

Jim Douglas
'00 K1200RS >135,000 mi, '09 K1300S sold @ 22,232 mi
'93 K1100RS traded up @ 78,000 mi, '85 K100RS sold @44,000 mi, Kawi 650 track bike - sold
http://www.seagullbb.com/
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