Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA, USA
For the track you'll want less sag, set it at 1.25" then follow the settings for adjusting the rebound. Yes you will lose some time on your first session tweaking the settings but then you'll have another 5 or 6 sessions of riding with it working as best as the stock suspension can. You may end up doing some fine tuning between sessions also.
Bring a notepad and keep track of your settings so you can see what changes you've made and how it affected the ride. This will also help you get back to that point on your next track day. I like to keep notes on my tire pressure and tire wear in addition to the suspension settings. With a little experience, you'll start to see the wear pattern on your tires change as you make suspension changes.
I would be interested to hear how the geometry on the K13S handles the track. The stock K12R geometry is aweful for the track. With the suspension plates and my Wilbers shocks I was able to get it dialed in nicely. Two clicks of compression would make the difference between holding a line and drifting wide on the exits. I got it to the point that I could almost use cruise control while dragging a knee in medium sweeping corners then I got a track bike. lol
’06 K1200R Corbin w/ smuggler, Wilbers shocks, PCIII, Factory Pro Dyno tuned, CC Suspension plates, Vario levers, Dual Evo filters, Leo Vince SBK, V1, Zumo 550
’02 WR250F Stock
’99 SV650 GSX-R front end, Aftershocks suspension, Penske shock, 41mm FCR flat slides, Bridgestone slicks, M4 exhaust, Vortex clipons, Woodcraft rearsets, Hot Bodies race bodywork, Factory Pro clutch cover, Total Loss ignition, BRG relocated battery, APE Adjustable Cam sprockets, JE 13:1 pistons, mild porting, balanced crank, Sunoco 110 race fuel
’98 KLX331 Race Tech suspension, 331 Stroker big bore kit, 33mm pumper, Tag bars, Stroker exhaust, IMS desert tank, tall seat foam w/ Stroker cover, Open air box, KX clutch