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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 2006, 1:05 pm Thread Starter
 
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Clutch Bleed

I'm installing the Evoluzione clutch slave on my K12S. Last step is to bleed the clutch. Has anyone that's done this offer step by step guidance?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 2006, 3:51 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mogan
I'm installing the Evoluzione clutch slave on my K12S. Last step is to bleed the clutch. Has anyone that's done this offer step by step guidance?
Pretty darn simple. Open bleed screw and pull in the clutch lever. While the lever is still pulled in, close the bleed screw. Then release the clutch lever.

Repeat the process until all the air is out of the system.

Remember to fit a piece of clear vinyl tubing onto the bleed screw, and let the end sit in a container to catch the fluid. Air expelled is visible through the tubing.

Also remember to periodically keep the resevoir topped up to pervent air entering there.

Simple. Usually one person can reach both the bleed screw and the clutch lever. Takes all of 5 minutes.

Bob.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 2006, 4:05 pm
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that reminds me....in the k1200gt owners manual it says that as clutch wears that the fluid level rises...maybe a miss print?....but also i think it says the same thing for the brake juice.......anyone know whats up with that?....
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 2006, 5:07 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 2006, 11:28 pm
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that reminds me....in the k1200gt owners manual it says that as clutch wears that the fluid level rises...maybe a miss print?....but also i think it says the same thing for the brake juice.......anyone know whats up with that?....
That is correct.

If you look at the details of how a clutch and it associated linkage works, it becomes clear.

When the clutch plate wears in a car, the pedal will engage at a higher and higher point. Similarly in a bike, it will engage with less and less pull on the lever. This makes perfect sense, since when you pull in the clutch lever, the pressure plate moves AWAY from the disk (otherwise, how would the clutch release??).

So when the disk wears thinner, the pressure plate will naturally have to move "closer" to apply pressure disk, since it is not as thick as it once was. So if pulling the lever closer to the bars causes the pressure plate to move away from the disk, then obviously, a thinner disk will result in the point where the clutch starts to release, to occur with the lever further "out".

Now, if you have a cable actuated clutch, you will find that as the disk wears, the cable slack DECREASES for reasons given above. You have to adjust the clutch to add more slack.

In the case of a hydraulically actuated clutch, the result is that the slave cylinder's piston is pushed further back into the slave cylinder as the disk wears. In other words, the little piston doesn't have to travel as far to release a worn disk. The result is that fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir.... just as the manual said.

If this is confusing (and it probably is), I can draw a simple diagram.

Bob.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 2006, 5:18 pm
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Originally Posted by RFWILSON
That is correct.

If you look at the details of how a clutch and it associated linkage works, it becomes clear.

When the clutch plate wears in a car, the pedal will engage at a higher and higher point. Similarly in a bike, it will engage with less and less pull on the lever. This makes perfect sense, since when you pull in the clutch lever, the pressure plate moves AWAY from the disk (otherwise, how would the clutch release??).

So when the disk wears thinner, the pressure plate will naturally have to move "closer" to apply pressure disk, since it is not as thick as it once was. So if pulling the lever closer to the bars causes the pressure plate to move away from the disk, then obviously, a thinner disk will result in the point where the clutch starts to release, to occur with the lever further "out".

Now, if you have a cable actuated clutch, you will find that as the disk wears, the cable slack DECREASES for reasons given above. You have to adjust the clutch to add more slackIn the case of a hydraulically actuated clutch, the result is that the slave cylinder's piston is pushed further back into the slave cylinder as the disk wears. In other words, the little piston doesn't have to travel as far to release a worn disk. The result is that fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir.... just as the manual said.

If this is confusing (and it probably is), I can draw a simple diagram.

Bob.
....i know im getting old and im not as sharp as i once was ....but while reading the owners man i saw that it said that the clutch fluid will fill the res. as the disc wears....and i have done so many clutches and cyl and masters i cant count......is this a bmw thing?....and the only thing i can think that would be made that works in the way is says in the man...would have to be either a pull type clutch or linkage over hydraulic...but still to me it dosnt make any sense to build something like that...and why would you?...have never run across this type before...i guess bmw must have some reason for it....i ll have to dig deeper and get to know it better....but the other thing it said is that its the same for the brake res???..fills as the brakes wear?....this is a head scratcher...but thanks for your time.and happy riding.....snowing here....bak04gt
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 2006, 5:20 pm
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the other thing as you get old....you cant spell or see where spell check is
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 2006, 5:27 pm
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If you are asking whether the rising fluid thing only pertains to BMW, then the answer is no. ALL clutches either push back fluid into the master cylinder as the clutch wears (or if they are cable actuated, the cable free play is reduced). This is a fundamental thing with any clutch linkage.

Bob.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 2006, 6:01 pm Thread Starter
 
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RFWilson-

The stupid first time clutch bleeder has a follow-up question.

I take it the bleed screw you're referring to (in the case of the evoluzione upgrade kit) is the bleeder bolt that pokes out of the slave cylinder at about 1 o'clock. Loosening and tightening that bleeder bolt open and closes the bleeder opening?

It looks like it's working but want to make sure.

When done the bleeder bolt stays in but tight?

Sorry for such basic questions.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 2006, 6:42 pm
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that is all correct.

regards,

ken zeller
evoluzione cyclesports
www.evoluzione.net
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