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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 2006, 7:24 pm Thread Starter
 
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Paint for Fairings

I have managed to put together a second set of fairings for my K12S. I like the original blue/white color scheme just fine; I want to have a second set (in black, or BMW metallic green, or other - haven't decided).

My question: What type of paint does one use on the plastic? I used to do a lot of sheetmetal repair and painting, but have no experience whetever on plastic.

Any help greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 2006, 7:25 pm Thread Starter
 
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I just saw the other thread recommending Glasurit. Wondering, though, about bonding to the plastic.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 2006, 9:45 pm
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Bonding is what the primer is for.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 2006, 10:22 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik
Bonding is what the primer is for.
Not really. Primer is "primarily" (sorry about that!) used to fill imperfections and (once sanded) result in a glass-smooth surface ready for painting. Autobody primer doesn;t really stick to a substrate any better than catalysed color coat does, providing the substrate os properly prepared in either case.

Bob.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 2006, 3:04 am
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i would use a bonding primer with a flex additive......see your local dupont dealer...he ll take care of you...the right primer and flex is the key
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 2006, 7:06 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks! Will check with DuPont.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 2006, 8:15 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAK04GT
i would use a bonding primer with a flex additive......see your local dupont dealer...he ll take care of you...the right primer and flex is the key
There is nothing special needed here. Any brand-name automotive catalysed (and it MUST be catalysed) primer will be fine. A flexurizer is not needed. What IS needed is immaculate preparation to ensude proper bonding.

I just painted the fairing on my K100RT a few months ago. I used PPG "Prima K36" primer, "K201" catalyst and the appropriate reducer. The stuff is beautiful to work with... hardens in a half hour and sands like a dream. Doesn't even clog 600-grit paper.

After that I used Glasurit "55-line" color coat and their clearcoat. Other brands of paint are OK too, but the good thing about Glasurit is that they are BMW's OEM suplier, and THEY invented the color formula. All the others may be close, however.

By the way, here's a tip. The primer MUST be final-sanded with 600 paper until it is a smooth as a baby's ...well you know. The problems tend to be the edges where it is hard to get a smooth radius around the edge. The trick is to use green ScotchBrite. This results in a beautifully smooth edge and takes out sanding imperfections.

Remember... the final color coat hides NOTHING! IT actually EMPHASIZES the flaws you can hardly see in the primer!

One more thing. Never use lacquer-based (non-catalysed) glazing putty to eliminate small imperfections before priming. Use ONLY catalysed glazing putty.

Bob.

Last edited by RFWILSON; Apr 15th, 2006 at 10:39 pm.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 2006, 9:06 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thumbs up

Excellent! The Glasurit system sounds like another good alternative. However, it does appear that the body prep work required will be far beyond my own meager talents. It looks like a trip to the body shop is in my future.

Glad I asked the folks on this board - otherwise, I might have tried Krylon.

All of your help is greatly appreciated.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 2006, 12:44 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepper
Excellent! The Glasurit system sounds like another good alternative. However, it does appear that the body prep work required will be far beyond my own meager talents. It looks like a trip to the body shop is in my future.

Glad I asked the folks on this board - otherwise, I might have tried Krylon.

All of your help is greatly appreciated.
Actually, Glasurit is not an "alternative"; it is the original paint! Everthing else is an alternative.

As for the talent thing, it mainly takes a lot of effort, and attention to detail, but really little "talent".

Bob.
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