Damaged screw mount for front turn signal/mirror stalk. - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2018, 2:33 pm Thread Starter
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Damaged screw mount for front turn signal/mirror stalk.

I removed the fairings on my 2006 K12S for a paint job, and one of the two screws would not screw out of the brass female connector, and simply removed the brass part with it. For those who have never had theirs off, a brass female part, maybe technically a type of nut, into which the attaching screws go into, operates like a plastic picture hanger that you fit into a hole in the drywall, and spreads into the plastic hole on the stalk as you screw in the screw, to firm up the connection. That female part/nut has pulled out of one of the two holes on my left mirror stalk.

Question: Do any of you fine, creative-minded fix-it persons out there have a better idea than mine, which is to put JB Weld Plastic, or something similar, in a very small amount down in the empty hole in the plastic at the end of the stalk, and then insert the whole screw/nut assembly back in it. The other screw still works as intended, and thankfully, it’s the top connection that still works. I don’t think the plastic would stand for a bigger sized screw without cracking and/or breaking.

As per usual, BMW’s price for a new stalk is borderline insane, and I’d hate to pay them for a brand new one just for that, but on the other, I’d also hate to be out doing triple-digit MPH, and then just have it go flying off, too.

Thanks in advance for any help, thoughts, or ideas.

Mods, if you think this goes better in the technical forum than bike-specific, please move, and apologies.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old May 11th, 2018, 4:46 pm
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Screw repair

If you are talking about re-cementing the brass female "nut" back into the plastic your idea sounds good. If you are going to replace the brass with the jb weld, note that it will also cement to the screw. If that's the way you're going, try putting a really thin layer of oil on the screw so it won't be cemented. Kind of like the heli-coil thread repair (which would be a possibility) that uses a release compound on the threads so they don't get permanently cemented.

Jim
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2018, 2:21 am
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Have you got the screw and nut apart? otherwise that is step 1, hold with pliers or whatever and get them apart. Then put the nut back in the stalk with som JB, let it cure and then you are good to go.
Not done this on this exact part but on other plastic parts. It works and usually gets stronger than it originally was if one cleans off any oil residue before gluing.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2018, 12:23 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattias_r View Post
Have you got the screw and nut apart? otherwise that is step 1, hold with pliers or whatever and get them apart. Then put the nut back in the stalk with som JB, let it cure and then you are good to go.
Not done this on this exact part but on other plastic parts. It works and usually gets stronger than it originally was if one cleans off any oil residue before gluing.
I was indeed going to do what jpel suggested in the first of his post, and have the JB Weld for plastic to metal ready to go, BUT your step 1 would be my fear, as the nut appears to be soft brass, and without really firing down on that sucker with the pliers (which could destroy the little fins designed to keep the nut from backing out of the plastic), it doesn't want to let go, and my fear is damaging that brass nut, which is NOT sold by BMW as a separate part.

However, it does appear that the original screws have a groove machined from top to bottom, perpindicular to the threads, into which they placed some sort of glue during assembly, so perhaps that's the problem on this one screw, and I can get the fastener to turn loose by soaking in WD-40 or equivalent, before then of course removing all the WD-40 prior to trying to JB Weld in the nut.

Thanks, guys!
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2018, 10:07 am
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Those type of screws dont hold any glue, it's plastic and designed to be a little bigger and unthreaded, that way it swells against the nut and works as a reusable threadlock in absence of a better word.

If the fins get marred up, can't you make some grooves with a small file for the JB to grab on/in to ? don't need to be big or deep, just make sure to pre-press them with JB before inserting into the hole, that way there is no air in them and it will hold.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2018, 3:13 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattias_r View Post
Those type of screws dont hold any glue, it's plastic and designed to be a little bigger and unthreaded, that way it swells against the nut and works as a reusable threadlock in absence of a better word.

If the fins get marred up, can't you make some grooves with a small file for the JB to grab on/in to ? don't need to be big or deep, just make sure to pre-press them with JB before inserting into the hole, that way there is no air in them and it will hold.
No need, as it turns out. I soaked the screw/nut which were stuck in spray lithium Liquid Wrench for about 30 min., and what wouldn't budge before hand was only slighter than finger tight before, all my brass nut fins are pristine!

And if it even matters, the plastic in the groove on the screw is still there, even after soaking in alcohol to get off the Liquid Wrench. My plan for the screw/nut connection is simply some blue loctite.

I haven't attempted re-assembly yet, as I painted the mirror stalks myself, and I'm giving them a good 48 hours to cure, and with all this rain we're having, I'm sure not riding anywhere.

I've been learning that all these glue formulas have been greatly improved in the last 20 years, and now really are often a permanent fix, as opposed to a temporary patch at best, when mixed and used exactly as directed.

Ya'll have been kind enough to help, so I'll definitely let you know how it turned out. Thanks again!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2018, 9:57 am Thread Starter
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Success! At least so far. Plastic to metal JB Weld for the brass nut, and the hold was solid as a flexible, polymer rock after I took a ride over a bumpy mountain road, country twisties, and some longer, straighter stretches devoid of the local constabulary during which speeds unintentionally, and totally accidentally, reached well into the triple digit mph. A couple of you offered things I hadn't considered, and also some encouragement I was on the right track.

Thanks!
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