Replace Coolant K1300S/2013 - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 5th, 2018, 7:02 am Thread Starter
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Replace Coolant K1300S/2013

Hi Guys . I need your help please.

I want replace the coolant to my bike . And I have not VACUMM . Anyone replace the liquid ?? How do you did it ??

Please if anyone have video would amazing ĦĦ

Thanks ĦĦ
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 2018, 6:57 am
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You can get one on amazon for $119.95. It's best to buy the vacuum unit to do the job right. It's not that expensive, and you can use it on your car when you finish - Uview 550000.

2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone

Last edited by TF1200RT; Aug 6th, 2018 at 7:13 am.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2018, 6:33 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TF1200RT View Post
You can get one on amazon for $119.95. It's best to buy the vacuum unit to do the job right. It's not that expensive, and you can use it on your car when you finish - Uview 550000.YouTube video
Thanks for you answer ĦĦ ..

I send email to the Company .

I ´m in Spain ( Europe ) and the item from Amazon are differents here .
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 2018, 7:20 pm
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It's nice to have a vacuum unit but if you can't get one, the job is still doable. I have had my radiator off and or changed my coolant 4 or 5 times with no difficulty. You just have to follow the correct sequence for bleeding the system.

After replacing what ever you took apart on the cooling system and got it all back together or if just refilling the radiator, fill the radiator to the ring just below the level of the cap. Put the cap on. If necessary add a little coolant to the burp tank to the max line.

Start the bike and let it warm up to the point that the thermostat has opened and the coolant is circulating.

Remove the cap from the bleeder on the right side of the motor which is just below and forward of your chain tensioner. You may attach a length of clear hose to the nipple beforehand to control the spray and watch for the bubbles to clear. Open the nipple with a wrench letting it squirt hot coolant and watch for the bubbles to clear then close it back tight. This will all happen in just a second or two.

Go to the other side (Left) and do the same thing at the bleed cap (Black Plastic) on top of the hose between the radiator and the water pump. There will be no way to apply a hose to this fitting so don't take it all the way off; just loosen it and let it seep coolant until you see no bubbling; also just a few seconds.

Do the same procedure to the bleeder just to the rear of the pervious bleeder which is on the water pump itself. You can get a hose on this bleeder nipple.

Let the bike cool down and check your coolant level in both the radiator and the burp tank. There is much less volume to a motorcycle cooling system then you are used to in an automobile so what you lost burping it, may be an appreciable amount so don't omit this step.

If, after a check ride, the temp gauge is showing anywhere above mid point, repeat the procedure until the temp gauge shows at mid pointy or hopefully below. That should do it.

All this in the factory repair manual which there is no excuse for not getting. They are available on CD from many sources.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2018, 10:31 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SpaceViking View Post
It's nice to have a vacuum unit but if you can't get one, the job is still doable. I have had my radiator off and or changed my coolant 4 or 5 times with no difficulty. You just have to follow the correct sequence for bleeding the system.

After replacing what ever you took apart on the cooling system and got it all back together or if just refilling the radiator, fill the radiator to the ring just below the level of the cap. Put the cap on. If necessary add a little coolant to the burp tank to the max line.

Start the bike and let it warm up to the point that the thermostat has opened and the coolant is circulating.

Remove the cap from the bleeder on the right side of the motor which is just below and forward of your chain tensioner. You may attach a length of clear hose to the nipple beforehand to control the spray and watch for the bubbles to clear. Open the nipple with a wrench letting it squirt hot coolant and watch for the bubbles to clear then close it back tight. This will all happen in just a second or two.

Go to the other side (Left) and do the same thing at the bleed cap (Black Plastic) on top of the hose between the radiator and the water pump. There will be no way to apply a hose to this fitting so don't take it all the way off; just loosen it and let it seep coolant until you see no bubbling; also just a few seconds.

Do the same procedure to the bleeder just to the rear of the pervious bleeder which is on the water pump itself. You can get a hose on this bleeder nipple.

Let the bike cool down and check your coolant level in both the radiator and the burp tank. There is much less volume to a motorcycle cooling system then you are used to in an automobile so what you lost burping it, may be an appreciable amount so don't omit this step.

If, after a check ride, the temp gauge is showing anywhere above mid point, repeat the procedure until the temp gauge shows at mid pointy or hopefully below. That should do it.

All this in the factory repair manual which there is no excuse for not getting. They are available on CD from many sources.
Ok Thanks you ĦĦĦ
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2019, 5:27 am
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Nice way of causing harm to the bike. The reason you need to vacuum this motor is that it gets airpockets that CAN NOT get out with normal procedures no matter how you try, when running the bike these airpockets will overheat the metal warping the head or possibly causing small cracks.

It is highly recommended that you do not start the engine until you filled the system completely, this big engine only has 2,5L total volume of coolingsystem and is prone to airpockets, thus bmw reprom specificly states vacumbleed must be done to not damage engine and even making sure it holds 2bar pressure for at least 5 minutes unchanged before filling. The system is very small and this make the engine sensitive to damage.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2019, 3:03 am
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Also note that when you are changing the coolant you want the bike to be on the side stand and not the centre stand. Because it's meaning it means the high point of the radiatior is at the filling cap. If you use the centre stand there is a chance that you will get an air pocket on the opposite side of the filler cap that is awkward to get rid of.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old May 3rd, 2019, 12:29 pm
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Use vacuum method and it doesent matter how the bike leans.
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