Hi!
My bike sometimes make the ususal horrible noise on start up and for 2sec until the camchain tensioer is pressurized.
Ok, so im landed on not to change the cam or the oilpump chain, or adjust the oilpumpchain, but change my camchain tensioer with a "third part" and manualy one!
Bike: K1300S HP 72500km
Anyone who have tried one and can give my "go" for that one?
Being a HP model I'll assume you have the newer hydraulic tensioner. Seems to me all the K13's do. Anyway all it really needs is this O-ring kit:
11 31 7 705 460 SET: O-RING SET 1 $13.98
And then you will be good for another three years. You will need a box end Torx for the bolts and it is a bit fiddly to get out and back in but remember to tighten the bolts down evenly so nothing binds.
Hi!
My bike sometimes make the ususal horrible noise on start up and for 2sec until the camchain tensioer is pressurized.
Ok, so im landed on not to change the cam or the oilpump chain, or adjust the oilpumpchain, but change my camchain tensioer with a "third part" and manualy one!
Bike: K1300S HP 72500km
Anyone who have tried one and can give my "go" for that one?
I installed the APE tensioner on my 2008 K1200S and it's worked out great. My only recommendation would be to replace the standard hardware APE ships with for stainless hardware. The standard APE hardware will rust the first time it hits water.
This is for the APE tensioner which seems to e the most popular. K13 and k13 will be the same. If you put the o ring kit into the BMW tensioner heed Beech’s carefully. Not only do the bolts securing the tensioner to the block need to be equally tightened but they must also not be over tightened or the tensioner will bind and horrible noises made. If this happens slacken off the bolts a little bit and restart the engine. I know ‘cos I experienced it. This is also the recommended procedure in the bmw service cd
My bike has also done 100000km and I will be replacing the cam chain, sprockets and tensioner at 120000km
Thanks for the video and jkaiser's tip!
Anyway, il will repair my YZ250F first, then go one to my K1300S HP, its below freezing point and the bike will be inside the house for 5-6 months.
(My YZ is below thinnest shims on 1 valve).
..ok, so today iv changed the two O-rings on the OEM tensioner, easy, but you need a 8mm torx spanner.
She started up without the noise, and il be checking tomorrom to. So far, so good!
Did you adjust the tension?? You need to back out the tensioner adjustment till you hear some noise and then turn it back down till the noise goes away. Then add a half turn and tighten down the lock nut. No amount of time will cause more noise from the cam chain, just time spent riding.
Well its been a while since iv been updating this post. Waited 4 days, and starting...and, its stil fine! Maybe its ok now, if not, il try heavier oil, 10-50, its 5-40 in now.
I think the O-ring kit did the job it is supposed to.
Just as you mentioned a side issue. BMW started out with 5W40 on these bikes and then the clutch lube problem really created a lot of negative feed back. I too will soon go back to 10W40. My bike is getting a little older with 120,000 miles and I think it would do it some good.
Update:
bike been "off" for several weeks as iv been doing a slow job on checking valves, (witch where ok).
On start up there was a smooth and nice sound, no rattling!
:smile_big
To find the part at the APE online store, go to the "Europe" tag on the home page, since they don't list BMW up front. Manual cam chain adjuster BT1200-PRO is advertised at $89.95 with "stainless hardware" but the two bolts shown appear to be black anodized or nitrided. No affiliation.
You need a Torx end wrench. Box end with the size E8 on one end. The O-ring kit ( 11 31 7 705 460 SET: O-RING SET) has two O-rings in it. A larger one that goes in the base of the main fitting hole, it is about 19mm. The whole assembly fits on top of this to seal things to the engine. The smaller one fits on the end of the piston inside the housing in a grove. Clean around the tensioner housing first to get dirt away. Don't want any falling into the engine. When working on it un-screw the torx bolts evenly each side, when you remove the screws you can lift up on the housing. It will not come up far enough to get out of there because the piston inside is being held in the housing by this small O-ring. You need to wiggle the piston out of the main housing so you can get the housing out, then lift out the piston. Keep things clean and change out the O-rings. The chain guide inside keeps the piston from falling into the engine so oil up the little oring and drop in the piston O-ring end up. Now fit the housing carefully onto the piston working the O-ing into the housing. Start the screws and tighten evenly down. About 9Nm is plenty to tighten up the screws. (do not tighten as hard as possible of course)
To get to the tensioner you will need to remove the right side main fairing plastic. On the inside front lip by the radiator only remove the upper screw., Then the three at the bottom that connect to the belly pan. One back on the frame where your knee goes and then the three at the top. Save yourself A service call at the shop and clean the bugs out of your oil cooler and radiator while you're in the area.
Usually the E8 wrench comes with E6 on the other end. It is a tight fit but works. I have been tempted to bend it some but if you go slow there is no need.
Im just in to tell that afther several weeks with no use, the bikes stil start without the rattle, so my fix did it!
It was the easiest and cheapest way.
I'd just like to express my thanks to Beech for the instruction relating to the replacement of the tensioner O rings. DId this task yesterday as I had the 2 second noise at startup as well, and everything was exactly as described. Much appreciated!
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