Where does your clutch grab? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2020, 8:42 pm Thread Starter
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Where does your clutch grab?

I just replaced the clutch on an í05 K1200S that was absolutely *fried*.

I got a Barnett clutch; while in there, there was serious scoring on the basket parts holding the clutch plates together (not the clutch basket itself). Regardless, I got everything together, and low-and-behold, IT RUNS!

The oil that came out of the bike had me calling a priest, really dark black. I think that was all the clutch material that crept its way into the oil and throughout the bike. It seems to run fine, although the bike has an insane aftermarket exhaust that will on occasion backfire on the down-rev. The previous owner removed the temperature sensor from the intake. I was going to put it back, but I couldnít find out where to put it.

This is definitely not a smooth machine. If hannibal lecter had a bike, Iím pretty sure this would be it. I think it could use a valve adjustment. Is there a DIY procedure for that?

Iím a bit concerned about the worn/scored plates from the inner clutch basket. Right now the clutch seems to grab only at the very end of the leverís range, however it is not slipping, so thatís good. Is this normal, or does this indeed indicate I should double check everything? I also plan on flushing the clutch lever fluid (I ordered the correct fluid on ebay)
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2020, 9:24 pm
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Garage
This should get you started.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Valve clearance check.pdf (231.5 KB, 37 views)
File Type: pdf Valve clearance check 2.pdf (1,022.5 KB, 33 views)

2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone
2004 Honda CBR600RR - gone

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2020, 10:40 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TF1200RT View Post
This should get you started.
Much appreciated!

I already have DVD manual, and I briefly looked inside. Iíve found DIYs with pictures can be very helpful too though.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2020, 6:45 pm
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I have just checked the valve clearances on my k1200r and found it quite difficult with ordinary feeler gauges. The tapered ones are much easier and youíll have to bend them at the ends being careful not to snap them. My inlet clearances were fine but the exhaust were .401 with the upper tolerance being .40. Not bad after 62k miles.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2020, 11:38 pm
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Black oil is common on a trashed clutch. Intake air temp is important. It goes at the bottom of the back right side of the air box. You have to remove the fuel tank.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old May 13th, 2020, 8:25 pm
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2005 model year bikes had a reputation for having aggressive fuel and spark mapping. The factory later tamed it a bit during mandatory warranty updates. You may be lucky enough to have one with the original factory. Feeler gages with angled ends are the way to go for valve clearances, my 2005 K1200s has gone 108K miles with the valves still within spec. I wouldnít lose too much sleep over not checking them immediately.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2020, 9:52 am
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Iíve had a couple of K1200 bikes. I agree with the Hannibal Lecter statement. That was funny, but true.
Try this to civilize the running https://www.beemerboneyard.com/bmwafo2sema.html, and while you have the tank off, get some proper metal fuel disconnects from Beemer Boneyard. The plastic one are as brittle as pasta and are likely to break when you take the fuel tank off.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2020, 5:03 pm Thread Starter
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Yeah, I think Iím going to leave the IAT outside of the airbox a little bit away from the engine. Iíve read some claims it makes a difference, Iím not convinced, but the previous owner likely didnít do it for nothing.

The issue with the fueling AFAIK is the Remus exhaust which has no back-padding. The O2 sensor solution is new; I saw a butt plug solution? I think itís called a butt plug, that somehow rewires the IAT.

Idk. My main concern is the Barnett clutch grabbing only in the last like 0.5 inch of travel. I think the inner clutch basket plates are so worn ití robbed me of that travel. I think the Barnett clutch in general actually kind of sucks, but whatever.

The other issue is I suspect I might have some air in my brake lines. BMW decided to require a PhD to service the brakes on these bikes, and I think my dicking around might have caused some trouble.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old May 16th, 2020, 8:48 pm
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If your clutch doesn't let out where you want it, buy some aftermarket adjustable levers. On Ebay you can pay hundreds for them if that makes you feel good, or as little as $12 or $15. I changed my levers and set them so the clutch lets out where I like it.
One of the first things I did to "customize" my bike.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old May 19th, 2020, 3:22 am
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Agree with @crashnburninc, valves very rarely require adjusting. I would suggest replacing the IAT and then have BMW reset your ignition advance / fuel burn data that's stored in the computer. BMW recommends resetting these values periodically. If you have a GS-911 you can do this yourself I'm pretty sure. When I did this to my 2008 K1200S it completely changed the way the bike ran. Throttle response was dramatically improved and on/off throttle transitions smoothed out significantly. The whole bike just felt much lighter, easier to ride and much smoother at all throttle positions. This should especially be done if you've made changes to the setup, like adding a new exhaust or replacing your IAT, etc. For reference, my local BMW dealer charged me $67 and did it while I waited. They also reset my service reminder at the same time (I had just performed a bunch of maintenance). Good luck.
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