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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 2006, 10:55 am Thread Starter
 
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coolant refill

After spending $300 for the fld to check the valves on my S, I really would like to be able to do this in the future myself. So given that special equipment is used to purge air from the cooling system is there any way a home mechanic can make his own filling "rig"? Couldn't someone build one using an air tank or something?

Where is the fill\purge point if the cap won't get the job done. Anyone know the procedures from the service manual? btw, is the service manual worth buying? imwtk

PS 15k miles, valves did not need adjusting
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 2006, 12:41 pm
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It has been proposed that this machine might do the trick. You may have to buy an extra radiator cap and modify it. No one, to my knowledge, has tried it yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. If it doesn't, you've just flushed (snicker) 92 bones.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 2006, 2:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric2
Where is the fill\purge point if the cap won't get the job done.

btw, is the service manual worth buying?
When I saw the engine close up at the bike show, it looked like a brake bleeder sitting at the top of the water pump (left upper side of engine). It must be the highest point, unless the radiator has something special on it (didn't have that attached to the exploded engine on display). All I know is the dealer told me to "Leave that alone! (regarding checking the coolant). It only gets serviced at the valve lash intervals."

Regarding the BMW service manual (CD/DVD)....it sucks! No wiring diagrams. Very little usable information. A lot of special tools. Seems like it loops back onto the same diagrams and info over and over. Probably explains why some BMW wrenches don't understand the bike either.

I wrote to Haynes and they said they had no intention of writing a manual for the K1200GT. Maybe a Clymer manual someday?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 2006, 10:49 pm
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Cooling system refill

It is possible to refill the cooling system and bleed it without the vacuum pump. It is just a little harder. I refilled my system after checking the valves by first filling the radiator, capping it, then attaching a container filled with coolant with a clear hose out the bottom to the bleed valve on the water pump. I squeezed the hose to the pump to work the air out of the system. Then I opened the plug on the plastic coolant line near the water pump a little until coolant seeped out then closed it. After I has all the air out of the system I started the bike and ran it for a while till it got warm, then shut it off. I opened the bleed valve a little and got no more air. It is the high point in the system.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2006, 4:47 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffearless
It is possible to refill the cooling system and bleed it without the vacuum pump. It is just a little harder.
You're the man! That is just awesome.

What did you use to get the spark plug coils off?

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2006, 2:22 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffearless
It is possible to refill the cooling system and bleed it without the vacuum pump. It is just a little harder. I refilled my system after checking the valves by first filling the radiator, capping it, then attaching a container filled with coolant with a clear hose out the bottom to the bleed valve on the water pump. I squeezed the hose to the pump to work the air out of the system. Then I opened the plug on the plastic coolant line near the water pump a little until coolant seeped out then closed it. After I has all the air out of the system I started the bike and ran it for a while till it got warm, then shut it off. I opened the bleed valve a little and got no more air. It is the high point in the system.
Thanks for the reply, thats what i'm talking about, some genuine initiative. I'm trying to envision it though. We definitely need a write up by someone, because this is the biggest gripe I have about the bike. Question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ffearless
I squeezed the hose to the pump to work the air out of the system. Then I opened the plug on the plastic coolant line near the water pump a little until coolant seeped out then closed it.
Which hose are you referring to? The clear one?

Though the plugs prolly only need changing every 30-40k miles I want to do it myself, and when the miles get up its always possible a plug will get carbon fouled like my k1200rs did after a few minutes of wfo riding. So one should know how and be able to change plugs OTR, IMNSHO .
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2006, 6:16 pm
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Cooling system refill

The hose to squeeze is the black one from the radiator? to the pump. By squeezing it you cause coolant to flow back and forth in the pump helping any air in the system find its way out the pump bleeder that you have the clear hose and container attached to.

To remove the spark plug coils, I inserted a couple large straight blade screw drives in the groove intended for the coil removal tool and very carefully lifted the coils out of the spark plug wells.

In my opinion the service manual on the disk is necessary. It is not persect but it is some help and has good pictures. You can pick one up on eBay for about $10.

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2005 K1200s Indigo Blue

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2006, 7:17 pm
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be careful - the reason for vacuum evacuation of the head is because there are pockets around the valves/ports that hold air. just squeezing the hoses will not remove that air. since these pockets are near the hottest part of the head, if they do not have coolant circulation you could possibly overheat and crack the head in this area (i'm sure this would not be covered under warranty). we were able to build a unit that uses a hand vaccum pump to pull the required 22" of vacuum and then release the coolant (though it does require different adapters for the "s" vs. the "r" models).

regards,

ken zeller
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2006, 7:17 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffearless
The hose to squeeze is the black one from the radiator? to the pump. By squeezing it you cause coolant to flow back and forth in the pump helping any air in the system find its way out the pump bleeder that you have the clear hose and container attached to.

To remove the spark plug coils, I inserted a couple large straight blade screw drives in the groove intended for the coil removal tool and very carefully lifted the coils out of the spark plug wells.

In my opinion the service manual on the disk is necessary. It is not persect but it is some help and has good pictures. You can pick one up on eBay for about $10.
Thanks for the info, it will be a great help. I have the RepRom (service manual) and it does get a leetle vague with a bunch of special tools thrown in.

Any advice or gotcha's you care to share with a guy who loves to play with moto engines?

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 2007, 4:13 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evoluzione
be careful - the reason for vacuum evacuation of the head is because there are pockets around the valves/ports that hold air. just squeezing the hoses will not remove that air. since these pockets are near the hottest part of the head, if they do not have coolant circulation you could possibly overheat and crack the head in this area (i'm sure this would not be covered under warranty). we were able to build a unit that uses a hand vaccum pump to pull the required 22" of vacuum and then release the coolant (though it does require different adapters for the "s" vs. the "r" models).
Thanks Ken, I was hoping you would chime in. Did you use a mity vac or something larger on your rig? I'm guessing this is 2 pieces, 22" vacuum at the bleed port with one device and then fill mechanism for the radiator or vice versa?

Maybe rig something to use this sump pump from west marine (since i got it for oil changes anyway)?

Thanks for the input

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