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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2007, 7:54 pm Thread Starter
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Certified BMW Mechanic

So what does it take to become a certified BMW mechanic?

Original dealer is off the service list because the owner is a douche , so I drove 200 miles (each way) to another dealership. I needed the 6k and annual service completed. I also wanted to have the final drive oil changed again, and I wanted to watch the process so I can do it myself in the future.

My 06 does not have the bottom drain, so they needed to rotate the final drive assemble down to drain it. They removed the drain plug, and then the paralever bolt to allow the drive to swing. They left the splines assembled, so the drive only rotated down about 30º.
I told them it needed to rotate 90º, so he asked the second certified BMW mechanic, and he said that was as far as it rotated. I then showed them how to rotate it the full REQUIRED 90º from text and images I learned here on k-bikes. It was actually pretty easy

I watched them fill (and I use that loosely) the drive. They pulled the speed sensor and installed the drain plug. Then tried to squirt gear oil in through the speed sensor hold with no opening (drain plug) for the air to escape. This went on for a few minutes and there was oil running all over the rear disk and caliper. I really don’t know how much gear oil made it into the drive assembly, and neither do they, since NOTHING was measured, nor could they see anything through the speed sensor hole. They should have either measured or opened the drain hole to look for seepage.

No torque wrench was used during the reassembly of the final drive. The only thing a torque wrench was used for was the rear lug nuts.

Oh, and no lubricant (optimoly or equivalent) was used on the spline.

If I get a chance this weekend, I’ll be redoing the final drive myself to ensure it is done correctly.

{edit} In case you were wondering, the drained oil was black with traces of pearl in it, very similar to the original drain at 900 miles (this one was at 7200 miles) so it appears there was still manganese to be drained out.

Last edited by Coastie; Aug 20th, 2007 at 8:09 pm.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2007, 8:37 pm
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No kidding.

If it weren't for the damn special tools, I'd just do everything myself.

I never removed my speed sensor. Drained and filled through the drain hole. Not a drop of gear lube on the ground.

No wonder dealers hate the internet.

It exposes how little they know and how much they sometimes lie. Edit- Read his link. It pissed me off all over again.

Last edited by JCW; Aug 20th, 2007 at 8:50 pm.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 2:53 am
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Coastie, At least you were there to see and report back this horror story, many would check in their bike and wouldn't know what went on.

In UK now, some service shops have a large viewing area where you can watch the techs doing work on the bikes. It's quite interesting to just clock all the service tools they have. The bikes (many looking very new) are all on lifts and if you've just got a little background info reading K-Bikes threads, you can work out what service ops they are doing.

If BMW wants to sell the brand and service competence for which dealers and we pay a lot in training and tools, I see know reason why riders shouldn't watch what they do in the service shops.

In the case I mentioned, I was impressed and watched for about 30 minutes. I did see one service tech with a bike stripped stumbling a bit with a BMW service note, but this may have been his first time at it - and at least he was following instructions!



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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 1:18 pm
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Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Robert Persig covered this in the mid 1970s.

Nothing has changed, I abhor my local dealer (the service manager is mean spirited and his technicians are incompetent "We think this is fixed...") ... and the idea of a showroom workshop is an excellent one - I've seen this done in the automotive arena with success.

"What follows is based on actual occurrences. Although much has been changed for rhetorical purposes, it must be regarded in its essence as fact. However, it should in no way be associated with that great body of factual information relating to orthodox Zen Buddhist practice. It's not very factual on motorcycles, either."

Robert Persig - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance


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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 6:28 pm Thread Starter
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In the interim I decided to open the final drive drain plug to look for any seepage, and of course there was none.

I figured I better add some gear oil, and since they charged me for a full quart, I took the rest home with me.

I started with 50ml



It took that with no problem



I did another 50ml, and that went in too. Then I did 40ml, 40ml, 20ml and a final 20ml before I saw any seepage. That was a total of 200ml

That means the jabonie who 'attempted' to fill the final drive by willing it to, and by throwing oil at a tiny hole, only got 30ml into the final drive. Initial fill is 250ml, and drain and fill is 230ml, so with the remaining 20ml from the initial fill, and the 30ml jabonie got in there by luck, made 50ml total. Not a warm and fuzzy!

When filling from the drain and not the speed sensor, slowly rotate the wheel to help the oil pass down into the housing.

Excuse the filth on the bike, I rode 200 miles in the rain yesterday.

To fill I used a 'MixMizer' something I picked up at Wal-Mart for less than $5. It is in the auto parts section. It worked like a champ! It has a lot of different scales for measuring volume, but no ml scale. My chemist wife informed me that cc and ml were the same. After checking that on the net (won't tell her that) she was right, so you can use the cc scale 1 for 1.



Oh yeah, and at the top of that image is a TORQUE WRENCH!!
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 7:57 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemer01
Robert Persig covered this in the mid 1970s.

Nothing has changed, I abhor my local dealer (the service manager is mean spirited and his technicians are incompetent "We think this is fixed...") ... and the idea of a showroom workshop is an excellent one - I've seen this done in the automotive arena with success.
Hmmmm. Would that be somewhere in Chicago.

I concur. And would drive 100 miles if there was another shop.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 8:34 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastie
That means the jabonie who 'attempted' to fill the final drive by willing it to, and by throwing oil at a tiny hole, only got 30ml into the final drive. Initial fill is 250ml, and drain and fill is 230ml, so with the remaining 20ml from the initial fill, and the 30ml jabonie got in there by luck, made 50ml total. Not a warm and fuzzy!

Excuse the filth on the bike, I rode 200 miles in the rain yesterday.
Just a suggestion.

If I rode 200 miles with 50cc of final gear oil in, I would fill it like you did, ride about a mile or so to heat the fluid up, then empty the WHOLE THING AGAIN (with Mobil 1 full synthetic, it comes in a squeeze bottle with a tip you can cut off so you don't even need Mitey-Max)

Who knows what little pieces of metal were worn off with too little oil and too much heat.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 9:21 pm
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Coaste,

I would like to perform this procedure, but I'm not sure how to do it on a "sealed for life" drive. I did a search and can't find guidance on how to do this. Can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Paul

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2007, 9:38 pm Thread Starter
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JCW, that is the plan for the weekend if I can.
I need to build a little stand to lift the rear end, no center stand on my bike.
I have some M1 synth gear oil here at the house already, it was waiting for the diff on my truck.
I did feel the housing for heat after a 15 mile ride before I added the fluid. It was barely warm to the touch.

Paul, check this thread http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=5555
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old Aug 22nd, 2007, 2:00 am
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Just curious about this problem, but how do you guys flush out the gear wear particles, or aren't they supposed to wear for life? What do BMW consider the 'life' of a rear drive to be?

I can see the point in rotating the drive, if there's some kind of flushing fluid you could put in a few times and get the metal parts out. I've sometimes wondered about flushing through the older drives using an air line kerosene gun through the filler before changing oil, but not sure what to use.



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