My first K-bike - DIY - - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2008, 9:04 am Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
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My first K-bike - DIY

I just purchased my first K-bike, a 1985 K100RT. It has been babied it's entire life and I am only the third owner. Has just over 60K and I want to change all of the fluids. My question is: What type of oil should I use, BMW? Seems very expensive and I have that others use Mobil 1 synthetic. Any/all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also, do I have to take off the RT fairing and the tank to flush/fill the radiator/cooling system?

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2008, 10:52 am
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 18
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Welcome to the club!

Mobil 1 is just fine, I use 15w50! Brick is a car engine so there is no need for motorcycle specific oil. Clutch is dry and RPM is low = save your money...

To refill the coolant you will need to remove the gas tank. I dont know how it works with RT though - mine is naked

While at it you may want to replace air and fuel filters as well.
Boris_Badenov is offline  
post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2008, 3:46 pm
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lake Forest, Il, USA
Posts: 350
Pgh -

First of all you've bought a manual - either Clymer or Haynes, right? This book will save you thousands in maintenance and repair bills over the life of the bike.

The oil thing has been debated and beaten to death, I use the BMW oil mostly because the 85 K-100 is prone to sprag clutch lockups... the initial design has fewer oil holes, (problem solved with later models). When this clutch locks up, you can only pray that you can get it unstuck with aftermarket oil additives. The possible reasons for it getting stuck include using the wrong oil, previous owners starting the bike in cold weather and then turning it off creating a situation where moisture gathers, but is not expelled and so forth.

I wasted countless hours fixing mine because the PO did both of the above.

Your bike and your time - personally I'd rather pay a bit more for the oil and be riding than hunkered over a ripped apart engine trying to spray solvents into tight gaps.

You do not need to remove the fuel tank to R&R the antifreeze, there should be enough slack in the fuel lines to permit you to lift the tank up a few inches to access the fill cap - for sure here use the right antifreeze solution.

Finally, you know about the other maintenance items like the input and output spline lubes, brake system flush right? This link will prove to be useful reading...

"What follows is based on actual occurrences. Although much has been changed for rhetorical purposes, it must be regarded in its essence as fact. However, it should in no way be associated with that great body of factual information relating to orthodox Zen Buddhist practice. It's not very factual on motorcycles, either."

Robert Persig - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

1985 K100RS (Sold)
2000 323i (Sold)
2003 1150GS (Sold)
2009 528Xi
2004 K1200GT
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