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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 12:00 am Thread Starter
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exhaust leak?

2006 K1200GT
My exhaust is really loud all the sudden, and seems to pop on decel. It sounds "aggressive" but is ear ringing loud especially around 4,500-5000rpm. I had my rear tire changed today, and the exhaust change happened after that so I'm assuming the exhaust may have been loosened to fit the tire. Is this something I can fix with handheld tools, or will I need to stop at a shop? Would I just loosen a few bolts at the slipon and apply some high-temp sealant, and throw it back on, or is there more to it than that. Other than the sound/decel pop, is this something I need to worry about, or is it just an annoyance. I have another 6,000 miles or so left to go, so I don't want to cause damage. I've heard it can cause a lean condition, which I would assume could possibly foul the spark plugs.

Thanks for your help.

EDIT: Asked in the general forum since I'd assume I may get a fairly quick answer, and it's not particularly model-specific, it's one of those "general" type questions. I apologize if this should only be posted to the 12/13GT forums.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 5:06 am
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You get a general answer to a general type question:

The stock K bike exhaust systems are a one piece welded system. If you have an aftermarket system you have to say what it is.

When the rear wheel is removed it can be a fiddle to work it out around the exhast muffler. I have the standard narrower wheel/tire combo, some have the wider tire which can make wheel removal a bit more difficult. I will usuall put a small scissor jack under the muffler/CAT to support it and release the rear hanger bolt.

Others may take the lazy approach puffing and heaving at the muffler can to get the wheel in and out. The consequence of that is the round gasket seals in each (4) of the exhaust headers can break and leak, the header bolts (8) which clamp the headers and gaskets can loosen. Worse is the header pipe could crack (ouch!).

You need to drop the underbelly cover, run the engine with somebody blocking the muffler for a few seconds and look for/hear traces of black exhaust leak around the header pipes. If you are lucky, you may just get away with re-torquing the 8 header bolts.

If you had the tire changed at a BMW shop I would take the bike back and tell them they probably caused the exhaust header leak. If you had the tire changed at a non-BMW tire shop then they may not know the bike and caused this problem.



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 9:25 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
You get a general answer to a general type question:

The stock K bike exhaust systems are a one piece welded system. If you have an aftermarket system you have to say what it is.

When the rear wheel is removed it can be a fiddle to work it out around the exhast muffler. I have the standard narrower wheel/tire combo, some have the wider tire which can make wheel removal a bit more difficult. I will usuall put a small scissor jack under the muffler/CAT to support it and release the rear hanger bolt.

Others may take the lazy approach puffing and heaving at the muffler can to get the wheel in and out. The consequence of that is the round gasket seals in each (4) of the exhaust headers can break and leak, the header bolts (8) which clamp the headers and gaskets can loosen. Worse is the header pipe could crack (ouch!).

You need to drop the underbelly cover, run the engine with somebody blocking the muffler for a few seconds and look for/hear traces of black exhaust leak around the header pipes. If you are lucky, you may just get away with re-torquing the 8 header bolts.

If you had the tire changed at a BMW shop I would take the bike back and tell them they probably caused the exhaust header leak. If you had the tire changed at a non-BMW tire shop then they may not know the bike and caused this problem.
Stock exhaust, and what I assumed was the stock 180 series rear tire. The last tire I had installed before yesterday I noticed they loosened the hanger near the passenger footpeg when installing the tire, then tightened it back up. No noise increase. Didn't watch my tire get installed yesterday at an independent BMW shop, but assumed he would do the same.

If it's leaking at the header gasket, is that something you feel needs to be addressed immediately? I can't really go back to the shop, it's probably about 400 miles in the wrong direction, and we've got a fairly tight schedule. If it needs to be addressed immediately, I'll probably just look for another shop in albuquerque or amarillo today.

Thank you for your advise, I look forward to yours (or anyones) response.

EDIT: Also, I read about blocking the exhaust to check for leaks. Should you just use a wet towel or something at the exhaust port? I apologize for my lack of knowledge, never dealt with this kind of problem, and I usually learn as I fix stuff.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 9:32 am
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I think youve got a MK11 1200GT, and the exhausts are not one piece. The can has to be swivelled down to remove the wheel, there is a clamp with a torx bolt which you loosen off and the can then swivels after removing the hanger bolt, bet the fitter hasnt put it back together properly.

Tim
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2011 K1300GT
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 10:03 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Special-K
I think youve got a MK11 1200GT, and the exhausts are not one piece. The can has to be swivelled down to remove the wheel, there is a clamp with a torx bolt which you loosen off and the can then swivels after removing the hanger bolt, bet the fitter hasnt put it back together properly.
It's a 2006, which is the first year of the slant 4's (not a flying brick). I haven't removed the exhaust yet, so I'm not sure, but assumed it had more than 1 piece.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 11:09 am
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If you hold your hand over the end of the can from cold start idle, you should be able to a) Feel less pressure due to a leak and b) hear/see where it might be leaking.

If you have joints on the can then splosh some soapy water over first when cold, start up and look for big bubbles.



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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 12:03 pm
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I would also check the gap between the can and the rear tyre, according to the owners manual it should be the same as the thickness of the screwdriver handle in the tool kit.
Do you not have an owners manual? This is all covered in there.

Tim
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 12:41 pm
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Check the clamp that attaches the exhaust can to the header.. and check al the hanger bolts too. My guess is that the clamp wasn't tightened all the way.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2012, 2:58 pm Thread Starter
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Stopped by a great muffler shop in Gallup.NM, and they tightened the clamp from the exhaust can to the cat. Thanks everyone.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2012, 10:31 am
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The slant-4 K1200GTs and K1300GTs (from 2006 on) have a "ball joint", sealed with a clamp that wraps around it. The muffler part looks like a funnel, and the manifold part looks like a ball with most of it cut off. The "funnel" covers the end of the ball. The clamp is like a strap that goes completely around the joint. Instead of being flat, it is slightly curved to match the "funnel" and "ball". There are two tabs at the end of the strap, sorta like a hose clamp. One tab has a nut welded on, and the other has a hole for the corresponding bolt. You push the bolt through the hole into the nut, and tighten it so the strap holds the "funnel" and "ball" together.

Extra hints:

1. Instructions and photos are in the user manual, in the section about removing and reinstalling the rear wheel.

2. There is an alignment mark on the clamp. The clamp should be aligned so that the arrow points to the oxygen sensor (looks like a spark plug) on the headers.

3. Torque the clamp bolt to 35 Nm.

4. Check the muffler / tire clearance. The muffler should not be too close to the tire.

5. The ball joint should be lubricated with Optimoly TA as a part of regular maintenance.
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