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Trailer a K12...?

3K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  hopz 
#1 ·
Well, I might as well get it out in the open. I have committed to buy what I think is a really nice K1200RS from a fellow enthusiast in one of our far western states.

It looks like the plan is is to trailer it back home late next week.

I have driven a lot of miles towing trailers so that is not the question, but would appreciate any tips for tieing down a K12, or BMW in general.

Good tie points? Things to avoid? OK to tie to system case rails?
Do you like to compress the shocks? Or leave it a little loose/ On my Harleys- we did not like to compress too much- folklore was that it was not good for the shocks.

Tie-down with it on the center stand, no stand, side stand?
Seems to me that is would be good on the center stand, but if it rolled off, say on hard breaking, it might end up with too much slack on the ties. Thoughts?

Any experience would be appreciated.
Bob
 
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#4 ·
Trailer a K12...? On/Off Centerstand?

Plenty of personal experience trailering my '03 K1200rs.

Re: Front area, I use soft ties and make a loop around the top of the fork (left and right) just above the front fender and angle the strap forward and connect to a ratchet tie down and compress the suspension about 50%. In back I use soft ties to a rear frame member, on the left, right near the hand grab for putting the bike on the centerstand. I would never tie to the bag supports, but that's just me.

Re: on the centerstand....no knowledge, only an opinion. If your trailer is a singe axle, while moving down the road, the entire trailer and bike will bounce over pot holes, railroad tracks, stepladders in the middle of the road, etc. So now, all the bumps you are hitting are transferring the impact to anything connected to the frame....electronics, engine, etc. Don't use the centerstand and let your bike's suspension do it's job.

Steve
 
#6 ·
I think everyone trailers a bit differently, and regardless of the trailer gods intentions, they all pretty much work.

I have no wheel chock, but wouldn't pass up the opportunity to get one (one of these days).

I don't compress the suspension at all. Getting the bike on the center stand means you have room going forward for it to come off, or you have a heck of a time moving the bike forward to get it off the center stand once you're at your destination.

I tie the front forks with soft straps, with the left fork tied to the right trailer post and the right fork tied to the left trailer post. Level heighth, keeping the bike upright. Tying the opposite fork tube keeps the steering straight if the bike gets any side-to-side play. The back is tied from the frame to a side post, again keeping the straps as even/level as I can. The side posts do flex a little bit, but not a whole lot. I let the bike's suspension handle any suspension duties as needed, mainly because that's what the suspension is for. The straps are just there to keep the bike vertical and up against the front wall of the trailer.

No issues, trailered about three times, once for track-day duties. On a side note, I'd trailer again for track school/days, even though there're a couple of tracks easily within riding distance.

As for the OP...ride it back. And, not on 80, but 50.



 
#7 ·
The procedures listed in earlier posts are good.
In your question you asked about the system case rails. NO, do NOT use them. I've trailered my RS a few times, I tie the front wheel solid like shown in the A&S file. In the rear I use soft ties around the frame. Do not use the footpeg bracket either, they will break!
If you don't have a wheel chock, and your traile has a wood floor, use some wood blocks to secure the front wheel. Check your tie downs after an innitial few mile, then regurlarly st fuel stops. Enjoy the RS!
 
#8 ·
Keep it off the center stand. Let the bike's suspension work.

And ditto on the soft ties at the front forks and rear frame.

I also throw a strap over the seat with a towel folded up under the strap to protect the seat. I use 5 straps total.

you know.......you could just ride it back :eek:hyeah:
 
#10 ·
Good tie points? Things to avoid? OK to tie to system case rails?
Do you like to compress the shocks? Or leave it a little loose/ On my Harleys- we did not like to compress too much- folklore was that it was not good for the shocks.

folklore is wrong....it is wise to compress grasshoppa....just dont bend the frame. :rotf:
 
#11 ·
I haven't read your previous instruction procedures ... but as one neophyte trailer person to another ...

Get one of those really good chalks ... or someone who doesn't mind standing holding the darn thing vertical on the trailer for a few HOURS ... while you piss around getting satisfactory tie down points all set up.

I got a $250.00 automatic "suck the damn thing in and hold it vertical" ... "chalk thing" and I tell you if I hadn't either I would have so pissed off my son ...or he me ... that the whole damn trip would have been a terror.

Even with a Canyon Racer handlebar mount and a special rear tie down device ... it took enough time to give me and him both way too much sunburn ... and skinned knuckles.

Now I had a few hundred miles to travel and I wanted the thing tied down really well ... perhaps we were a bit careful ...

But had I not gone prepared with a LOT of extra bolts and ties and thinking things through beforehand I would have been some PO'd at my self for having gone unprepared.

..
 
#12 ·
Trailer a K12...Number of straps used

I use six, two on the forks, two as backup...not too tight on the bars, and two on the rear (soft ties to the frame). Sometimes people ask why six, and I say...they cost $10.00 each....and the bike is worth how many $$$$$$?.

Doing the math always helps!!
 
#13 ·
This bike is almost too heavy to trailer....I wouldnt take the chance unless I had a flat bed trailer with a 4' ramp gate and heavy duty tie down points and heavy duty tie downs..and even then I would keep the speeds down so I didnt have to worry too much about the bike flying off. You're almost better off riding the bike to your destination....I do. Hell...have your wife follow you in the truck.
 
#14 ·
I trailered mine 1200 miles last week in a 5' by 8' enclosed Doolittle trailer behind my wife's MDX doing 80 MPH the whole time. No problems. It's hard to find two equidistant tie downs on the back of the GT (mine is an '03) so I used the back tire/wheel itself. I use two rock climbing straps (the sewn loops... I think they're called runners... get them at REI)- both all the way around the entire tire and then hook my tie downs one to each side, with equal pressure to both sides. Don't have to touch the frame at all, and like the instructions say (the link above), you don't have to ratchet this down very tightly... just hold the bike from side to side movement. I've been doing this for years on my bikes and it works like a charm. The other comments from some of these guys like "its too heavy" etc... they're crazy. This bike trailers fine. In fact, I'm trailering 5 bikes in a 16 foot enclosed trailer to Sturgis in 3 weeks... 1000 miles each way. I'd love to say I've ridden it, but not into 14 hours on the highway. I'd rather be fresh and get good rides in when we get there.
 
#15 ·
I came in yesterday from California- about 900 miles with my new K1200Rs on a U-haul flat bed 5x9 trailer.

No problems whatsoever. I tied down using the methods shown in the earlier pdf file. Two on the front fork lowers, two from frame members in the rear.

Extras all around- just in case.

If you are considering trailering- go to a large motorcycle shop and locate something called Soft Ties, or Extenders... these are nylon mesh straps with loops on the ends. These can be looped over shocks, or frame points with no fear of marring the bike. Put the Hooks from the rachet tie-downs into the loops, not to the bike. No problem.

the trailer I used tracked smooth and straight at +/-75 all the way.


I did have to build my own ramp though since the dufus at U-Haul rented out the Ramp Tail gate trailer to someone else right out from under me.
 
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