Ever Change Your Tranny Oil??? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 1:15 am Thread Starter
 
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Ever Change Your Tranny Oil???

My bike a 2003 K1200 RS only has 11,800 miles on it,,, and I have only owned/riding it since Febuary which I have put about 6,000 miles of the total on it...

Changed the Tranny oil and,,, it was looking like it was time... Redish/Brownish oil came out with just a little "Gunk" stuck to the magnet,,, not much at all...

Put Mobil One Synthetic G-5 75-90 oil back in and it shifts better,,, at least it sure seems like it...

Anyone else changed their Tranny oil and did your oil look the same???
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 1:37 am
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oils aint oils

Every time I change mine it seems just like the stuff I am replacing it with, waste of time.

Last time I did a change....Then rode 3000k north where I had a new tyre fitted. Couple of spots of gear oil on the floor. The tyre changer sniffed and said, "Still the same old problem, after all these years they cannot fix a gearbox leak"

I thought to me self, self, that is bullshit. Pulled in at a relatives house and checked the level. I had put too much in, drained a bit out. Rode 3000k home. No sign of weeping or any drips.

I change my oils as per the book. But the gearbox and diff oil always looks like new.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 3:09 am
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I change my transmission and rear drive oils every 6-8K. It's not a lot of extra work, doesn't cost a lot more and doesn't need much oil. I use standard Hypoy mineral.

By changing the oils more often, you flush out any metal deposits that grind away at your bearings and oil seals and you may get early warning signs of rear drive bearing failure. This can make the repair easier and cheaper than waiting for the metal parts of the bearings to fall out. The rear drive in particular has a very small volume for oil and few places that metal wear deposits can collect. Unless you get oil analysed or look at it through a microscope, you're unlikely to see what particles are actually in it. It's not the deteriation in oil lubrication properties that's the issue. It's the cost of having leaking shaft seals replaced.



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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 7:23 am
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Just did the 24,000 mile maintenance recently and the transmission oil looked like it was still brand new - a light gold color, and the magnet had a small amount of fine shavings on it. Now the final drive, that oil was a bit darker.

Black 2002 K1200RS - "The Beast" (over 100k miles)
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 7:27 am
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Gear Oil

The reddish/brown oil you drained was probably BMW Synthetic. It comes in either a rather bright red, which slowly turns brown, or the traditional amber.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 8:43 am Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54089093
The reddish/brown oil you drained was probably BMW Synthetic. It comes in either a rather bright red, which slowly turns brown, or the traditional amber.
That is good to Know!!!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 8:49 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54089093
The reddish/brown oil you drained was probably BMW Synthetic. It comes in either a rather bright red, which slowly turns brown, or the traditional amber.
If it isn't changing color in the bottle then it's either breaking down in air (unlikely) or it's probably just the black seals being worn away and black plus red = brown/amber.



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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 2007, 9:58 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54089093
The reddish/brown oil you drained was probably BMW Synthetic. It comes in either a rather bright red, which slowly turns brown, or the traditional amber.
Unlikely. I changed the final drive oil once before at 12,000 miles and the stuff that I put in was regular GL-5 gear oil. (replaced this time with synthetic 75W/90)

Black 2002 K1200RS - "The Beast" (over 100k miles)
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