Need advice on frame fix... - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 9:51 am Thread Starter
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Need advice on frame fix...

One of the screws attaching the plastic side panel to the frame snapped off when removing the skin the other day. It was the one down low that goes directly into the aluminum frame. So even though some of the screw was sticking out, vice-grips were unable to get the thing dislodged. For whatever reason it was in there to stay. Tried anyway (my only choice really) and as predicted, the rest of the screw snapped off. So now my next choice is to drill it out. I did, put in a screw extractor, and THAT snapped off in the hole. So now I have a screw with an extractor stuck inside of it, both pretty much flush with the hole in the frame. I eventually drilled it all out, but that made a mess of the original hole in the frame. I really don't think I had other good options, so I'm not so upset about it, it's just the way it went.

So now I've got this ugly hole in the frame and need to retro fit a new screw somehow to hold down the skin at that point. One decent option might be to drill the hole out a bit bigger and insert one of those plugs that are made for such problems and which have threads inside them to receive a bolt (screw). The one I have on hand is made of brass, so would have to be dealt with delicately as I remove / refit the plastic in the future. The only other good option I can think of is to have someone weld a new piece of aluminum in place of the old, but I'm afraid to go down that path without trying some other workable solutions.

Before I drill this out to a larger hole, I thought I would ask you all what you thought of my choices here.

Thanks for any advice...

John

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 11:05 am
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I see two options: 1) as you already mention, drill it out and install a Helicoil, or 2) use an epoxy putty to fill the hole, then drill and tap. Since this isn't a critical load fastener, I might try option 2 first. You can always revert to option 1 if you don't like the epoxy filler solution.

http://www.polymericsystems.com/PDF_...S4021-0302.pdf

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 11:18 am Thread Starter
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I like that idea. That stuff looks good, is this available at local hw store do you think?

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 11:33 am
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IIRC, I picked mine up at a Home Depot or Lowes... should be available at an auto parts store also.

Just cut about an 1 of the stuff off the stick, mush it between your fingers until its a single color of gray, then push it into the damaged hole. Clean up the excess. Wait for it to harden, then drill and tap for the screw.

It strips easily, so don't crank on the screw after you have made the repair. I only use it for cosmetic type repairs. Anything with a load on it would get the helicoil treatement.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 12:46 pm
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Presumably we're talking about the M5 screws that button down the plastics? I can't imagine getting a screw extractor in that small size, but presumably you found one. What do you estimate would be the final hole size if you were to drill out the mess you made on the original to a larger size and are you confident of doing it whilst keeping the original center?

I never like 'bodging' on a generally good engineered bike. Repairs should be good, mechanically sound and invisible if possible. If the hole is where I think it is and depending how much damage you've already done, you could drill and tap say M8, Loctite a short length of stud flush at the rear and carefully ground flat at the front. Carefully drill and re-tap M5. Then wave a puff of ali aerosol paint over it. You have an insert good as new. there's an alternative fix if you use what we call 'Rivnuts or King Klik rivets' These are like a large pop rivet, aluminium outer case with a steel insert bush available in countersunk style head. You drill a larger hole, push in the Rivnut from one side, using the proper tool the back of the 'rivet' squashes leaving you with (an M5) thread.

Afterwards, get all your plastics fixing screws and grease their threads! I swapped all my BMW studs for stainless hex button type. You have to grease those as they come supplied de-greased and can easily sieze up.



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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 1:07 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
you could drill and tap say M8, Loctite a short length of stud flush at the rear and carefully ground flat at the front. Carefully drill and re-tap M5.
I used exactly this method for one of the M5 bolts holding the pannier rail to the grab rail.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 1:12 pm Thread Starter
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All good ideas Vox. Thx. The hole after further drill out would be 1/4 inch, so not small. It's too large even before that to permanently seat an m8 screw. I agree that a bullet proof fix is best, but it's also good to have choices along the way if it can be managed as such. Thx on the grease screws idea...I'll do that on the rest. I also have SS hex screws, but this particular one was one of the original exocit cheese versions provided by germany. I'll do a lookup on rivnut.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2007, 1:24 pm Thread Starter
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Vox, Rivnut looks like it would work well...better than the similar item I have on hand. I will try to find where to buy in my area. Thx again.

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