chain tensioning rail & guide - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2007, 2:33 pm Thread Starter
 
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chain tensioning rail & guide

Has anyone changed the tensioning rail & guide on a 99 K12RS. What level of mechanical ability is required? I do have a Clymers manual and have performed several replacement & maintenance functions on my own.
Allen
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2007, 3:47 pm
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Allen

How many miles on the bike?

I brought my KRS in for a 36K service(when the rails are due to be replaced) and was advised against replacing them. The tech has never seen a bad set at this mileage and was very leery of opening a non-leaking, factory sealed cam chain cover, just to change the rails.

Bruce C
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2007, 4:04 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenTurner
What level of mechanical ability is required?
Seems to me the only operation that would pose any difficulty is the timing cover shaft seal. (purchasing the seal installation special tools may add pain of a different sort... )

Black 2002 K1200RS - "The Beast" (over 100k miles)
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2007, 9:33 pm
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Chain Tensioner

Replacing this part is a lot of work; both radiators have to be removed, as well as the timing cover itself. There is great opportunity for oil leaks in this operation. Unless the timing cover is leaking, I'd save this repair for a later date. Many K bikes have covered hundreds of thousands of miles on their original tensioner and gude.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2007, 2:16 am
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I've just done mine with the added luxury of motor out of the frame. With 36K miles on the bike I found no wear, so it all went back.

54089093 says it about right. I only used 2 tools I made. one was a length of 1/8 rod to hold the tensioner spring, the other was the camshaft locking tool to stop the cam timing going awol. I didn't use their fancy Teflon seal so only a socket needed for that.

I did have to do some serious work on the head and cover when I discovered the oil feed drilling was way off center and a possible reason for oil leaks.



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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2007, 12:40 pm Thread Starter
 
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chain tensioning & rail guide

Bruce,
only 36K on the bike. I just returned from a 4K trip and noticed the maintenance guide called for it at 36K. Not dying to try this if everyone seems to agree that it is not worth cracking into a non-leaking engine.
Are there any signs to look/listen for that would indicate there is a problem?
Thanks for all the feedback.
allen
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2007, 1:25 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenTurner
Bruce,
only 36K on the bike. I just returned from a 4K trip and noticed the maintenance guide called for it at 36K. Not dying to try this if everyone seems to agree that it is not worth cracking into a non-leaking engine.
Are there any signs to look/listen for that would indicate there is a problem?
Thanks for all the feedback.
allen
I've seen LT engines with over, way over, 100k on them and the guides looked good. A bricks, a brick is a brick.

-=grif=-
What was that middle thang?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2007, 4:19 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenTurner
Bruce,
only 36K on the bike. I just returned from a 4K trip and noticed the maintenance guide called for it at 36K. Not dying to try this if everyone seems to agree that it is not worth cracking into a non-leaking engine.
Are there any signs to look/listen for that would indicate there is a problem?
Thanks for all the feedback.
allen
You'd probably start to hear a rattle from the chain some many miles ahead. But as I said, my rails looked just like new.

Now I did wonder about the timing chain itself. I noticed when I was rotating the camshafts under tension that there was a bit of slack. You can see this if you rotate the camshaft back and forth without moving the crankshaft.



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