Okay Guys first things first. Disclaimer: I ain’t responsible for nothing, I’m not recommending this, and I’m just sharing an experience. Okay with that said, here’s the scoop. I’m assuming you own a Uni-Go, that’s why you’re reading, if not, listen up. The Uni-go is a fine trailer but has one major flaw, instability in turbulence, or dirty air as we call it in the racing business. This instability is prevalent when running behind large vehicles. Without being too lengthy, I found a way to virtually eliminate this instability of the motorcycle and trailer and smooth the ride out. My buddy and I were dissecting this trailer since we bought them and could not understand why, for the KRS and KGT they had the center of the U-joint higher than the center of the final drive hub, or wheel. I couldn’t get the picture of a metronome out of my head. By watching a metronome you can get the basics of what our bikes are doing as we lean from corner to corner. The higher you are on the metronome stick, the further you have to travel from side to side. The closer you get to the “pivot point” the least you travel. My goal was to lower the “pivot point” of the U-joint to the same if not below the center of the wheel. We kind of came to the conclusion that with the center of the U-joint above the wheel center, it magnified any movement affecting the bike, like dirty air. We accomplished this by having a machine shop make a 3/8” flat plate and bolt to the existing 4-bolt pattern where the original location of the hitch was. We took a measurement from ground to center of the wheel, rider in place, and it measured 11 ¾”. The original trailer center was 13 ¾” so I had to drop the trailer center 3”. The trailer frame is a universal frame and has many holes in the front plate in which to locate the drawbar. The KRS drawbar is mounted to the second set of holes from the bottom. We removed the shell and re-located the drawbar to the bottom set of holes; this allows the trailer to sit level with its new lower location. The adapter plate simply bolts on using the original hitch holes and then there is a series of holes drilled with 3/8” spacing for adjustability. My trailer center point is now approximately 3/4” below wheel center. It’s pretty simple and fun for the whole family, if your family is strange. I didn’t go into a whole lot of detailed pics but you’ll get the idea. I’ll be happy to send you more pics, please send a personal e-mail. When we finished the project last Saturday, we hit the highway for a test run and I was blown away with the results, tomorrows test will tell it. Sunday we headed for the mountains to camp at Blue Ridge Motorcycle Campground, our favorite place in the whole wide world. We started on one of our favorite roads through farm country w/ gentle fast turns for about an hour of riding, highway 182. We then ran the highway 74 for about 30 miles to the twisties, through some medium traffic towns to the tight twisties leading to the campground. Besides the fact the highway turbulence in all but gone, the cornering stability has increased tremendously. Vastly improved is the trailer ability to transition from quick right to quick left. The trailer snaps right with the bike as you go from one turn to another. All in all we hit pay-dirt with this modification, big-time. The 3” was all the difference in the world. I’m telling you this is a huge improvement! You’ll be riding a totally new set up and be enjoying the highway instead of dreading it. Check out the photos, e-mail me, and try it out. Now the machine work for this plate cost me $100.00 for the first one, precision is time, maybe you can get it done cheaper. If you are interested, I’ll draw up some dimensions and e-mail them to you. Well I hope this will help you all. Take care and have fun with your “new” trailer. Now that I think of it, everyone interested please send me a personal e-mail so I can up-date you all with anything else that comes up with this trailer or set-up.