Uni-Go Stability - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2007, 3:47 am Thread Starter
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Uni-Go Stability

Hey Guys, If you have an RS or Later GT, I have some great news. There is some discussion of trailer stability in turbulent air and handling in general. I had a friend, with a machine shop, make a piece for me, that I will share along with pictures in the next few days, that will have a tremendous affect on your trailers. I road tested it this past weekend, putting over 600 hard miles on the trailer and everything was a BIG positive. I'll go into detail once I get the pics, your going to love it. I promised "Thick-as-a-brick" I would play with an idea and I did. So get ready for the big news..................talk about a teaser ad.

Jim S.
* Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2007, 10:37 pm
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Great News.....

I sure could use this, as I'm planning a trip to the midwest to visit family from New Mexico in October. Will take the long way and hit two rallies with the trailer loaded with goodies from Illinois....

I'm guessing you dropped the hitch point to level with the center of the wheel....can't wait for the pics.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 2007, 4:04 am Thread Starter
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Uni-Go Update!

Okay Guys first things first. Disclaimer: I ain’t responsible for nothing, I’m not recommending this, and I’m just sharing an experience. Okay with that said, here’s the scoop. I’m assuming you own a Uni-Go, that’s why you’re reading, if not, listen up. The Uni-go is a fine trailer but has one major flaw, instability in turbulence, or dirty air as we call it in the racing business. This instability is prevalent when running behind large vehicles. Without being too lengthy, I found a way to virtually eliminate this instability of the motorcycle and trailer and smooth the ride out. My buddy and I were dissecting this trailer since we bought them and could not understand why, for the KRS and KGT they had the center of the U-joint higher than the center of the final drive hub, or wheel. I couldn’t get the picture of a metronome out of my head. By watching a metronome you can get the basics of what our bikes are doing as we lean from corner to corner. The higher you are on the metronome stick, the further you have to travel from side to side. The closer you get to the “pivot point” the least you travel. My goal was to lower the “pivot point” of the U-joint to the same if not below the center of the wheel. We kind of came to the conclusion that with the center of the U-joint above the wheel center, it magnified any movement affecting the bike, like dirty air. We accomplished this by having a machine shop make a 3/8” flat plate and bolt to the existing 4-bolt pattern where the original location of the hitch was. We took a measurement from ground to center of the wheel, rider in place, and it measured 11 ¾”. The original trailer center was 13 ¾” so I had to drop the trailer center 3”. The trailer frame is a universal frame and has many holes in the front plate in which to locate the drawbar. The KRS drawbar is mounted to the second set of holes from the bottom. We removed the shell and re-located the drawbar to the bottom set of holes; this allows the trailer to sit level with its new lower location. The adapter plate simply bolts on using the original hitch holes and then there is a series of holes drilled with 3/8” spacing for adjustability. My trailer center point is now approximately 3/4” below wheel center. It’s pretty simple and fun for the whole family, if your family is strange. I didn’t go into a whole lot of detailed pics but you’ll get the idea. I’ll be happy to send you more pics, please send a personal e-mail. When we finished the project last Saturday, we hit the highway for a test run and I was blown away with the results, tomorrows test will tell it. Sunday we headed for the mountains to camp at Blue Ridge Motorcycle Campground, our favorite place in the whole wide world. We started on one of our favorite roads through farm country w/ gentle fast turns for about an hour of riding, highway 182. We then ran the highway 74 for about 30 miles to the twisties, through some medium traffic towns to the tight twisties leading to the campground. Besides the fact the highway turbulence in all but gone, the cornering stability has increased tremendously. Vastly improved is the trailer ability to transition from quick right to quick left. The trailer snaps right with the bike as you go from one turn to another. All in all we hit pay-dirt with this modification, big-time. The 3” was all the difference in the world. I’m telling you this is a huge improvement! You’ll be riding a totally new set up and be enjoying the highway instead of dreading it. Check out the photos, e-mail me, and try it out. Now the machine work for this plate cost me $100.00 for the first one, precision is time, maybe you can get it done cheaper. If you are interested, I’ll draw up some dimensions and e-mail them to you. Well I hope this will help you all. Take care and have fun with your “new” trailer. Now that I think of it, everyone interested please send me a personal e-mail so I can up-date you all with anything else that comes up with this trailer or set-up.
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Jim S.
* Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 2007, 2:59 pm
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Uni-go Stability

Cobbler -

I read your posts regarding the increased Uni-Go stability with the lower hitch point. I have experienced the "tail wagging the dog" effect myself. If it works as good as you say, why not:

a) make up the plates and sell them to us? I'll take one.

b) have you run this by the Uni-Go guy yet? Although, this may be a futile act - I'm not sure how much engineering acumen resides there.

Reg
'03 K1200GT
(Dark Blue Rail Gun)
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2007, 8:35 pm
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Sounds good!

Nice job on the research. I'm with Reg, in that if you make some I would be glad to get one from you. I'm sure others might as well. Your modification extends the wheelbase of the trailer a bit as well.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2007, 5:59 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thickasabrick
Your modification extends the wheelbase of the trailer a bit as well.
Only the thickness of the plate @ 3/8"

Jim S.
* Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2007, 7:30 am
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And a bit more...

and a bit more by dropping the hitch point.....granted, not a lot, but you seem to have found the solution. Great Job!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2007, 3:32 am Thread Starter
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More Pics

Here's some more pics. The wire harness must come out of the drawbar so you have to take the connector off. When you re-assemble is real easy to thread the harness back through. you must tale the rubber o'ring off also. when you lower the drawbar on the front part of the frame you'll have to put new holes through the vbery strong rubber membrane. I put a common nail in a vise-grip and heated it with a torch until red hot and burned the three holes. The old holes will show so you can go to a parts store and buy some automotive type plugs or black duct tape. Please contact me with any questions.
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Jim S.
* Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2007, 11:41 pm
 
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Great discovery I too would purchase a plate , this will be a nice touch to my k1200rs....matthew
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