GT buzz at 2000 revs - please HELP! - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2007, 5:05 pm Thread Starter
 
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GT buzz at 2000 revs - please HELP!

I bought my '04 GT in April this year with 17,000 miles on the clock. I had the 12,000 mile service done, which adjusts valve clearances, etc. I took the bike for a 160 mile ride today and noticed it has a very strong buzz/vibration right around 2,000 rpm. It's enough to cause a vibration in the fairing. I haven't ridden the bike a whole lot for the last 4 months given that it has been 110 degrees every day, otherwise I would have posted earlier.

When I serviced the bike, I told the manager about the buzz and he said "they all do that". I rode today with a buddy who has the latest GT and RT, but who also had an '04 GT and an '04 LT and he said the same thing - "they all do that".

Is this true? It doesn't feel right to me? It feels like something is loose or rubbing against something. It almost feels like the exhaust headers or muffler is loose. The engine is smoo-o-o-th all the way through the rev range, but whether it's accelerating or slowing down, at right around 2,000 revs that buzz makes itself felt in a serious way.

Can any of you shed some light on this? If I can eradicate it, it would be just about the perfect bike. (The reason I make this comment is that I also have an '05 K1200S in the garage and I have an '08 Harley on order - sacrilege! I have to get rid of one of the Bee-Emms or face possible divorce proceedings! I'd like to keep the GT because it's such a great all-rounder: fast, comfortable, great handling, looks great, luxury items, etc. But that buzz really pi$$es me off!)
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2007, 5:27 pm
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Quint

Geez, something ain't right. 2,000rpm is barely off-idle.

I know a harmonic vibration at 4,700-5,000rpm is normal, but this is a new one on me.

A loose header to cyl. head joint is the first thing that comes to mind. Or possible flat spots on the tires, from setting so long??

Bruce C
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 2007, 11:33 am
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I agree with Bruce - this is not the "they all do that" buzz. THAT happens at 4200rpm and 4800rpm on my '03GT. Those are two distinct points - not around 4200, AT 4200. The 4200 and 4800 buzz is minor - I can feel it in the grips, but that's about it.

A 2000rpm buzz is something different. Especially if it's vibrating the fairing. Time to start feeling around in there and try to isolate the source.

Reg
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 2007, 2:20 pm
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When the service manager says "They all do that", I come back with "Well, I heard different on the internet". Situation usually got worse from there...now the two phrases are mutually avoided.


Two things that seem to affect vibration, and you stated you'd just had the 12k service done...valves that have just been adjusted, and exhaust header tightness (or looseness, as the case may be).

If it wasn't there before, and you had the 12k done, find out what adjustments were done with the valves, as the 12k interval is when they normally check the valve clearances. If the adjusted one or two, it may go away with some time.



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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2007, 1:02 am Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Bruce, Reg and Ray

I appreciate the comments, and I am about to go through the little blue sonbitch with a fine tooth comb. I'll start with the exhaust muffler and headers, and work my way through the lower cowl and fairing, until I get through the entire fairing. If the buzz is still present, I think I'll take it to Irv Seever in CA who is generally respected at doing a quality service job.

The overall smoothness is so good that it's a great shame to have this annoying buzz when accelerating and decelerating around the 2,000 rpm range. Overall, it feels like such a quality piece of engineering and precision machinery that it seems like a waste not having it run right.

I'll let you know whether I nail the little bugger...
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2007, 2:52 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quint
Thanks Bruce, Reg and Ray

I appreciate the comments, and I am about to go through the little blue sonbitch with a fine tooth comb. I'll start with the exhaust muffler and headers, and work my way through the lower cowl and fairing, until I get through the entire fairing. If the buzz is still present, I think I'll take it to Irv Seever in CA who is generally respected at doing a quality service job.

The overall smoothness is so good that it's a great shame to have this annoying buzz when accelerating and decelerating around the 2,000 rpm range. Overall, it feels like such a quality piece of engineering and precision machinery that it seems like a waste not having it run right.

I'll let you know whether I nail the little bugger...
I'm doing something similar on my '97 KRS after I rebuilt it. But my list needs more than a screwdriver:

Exhaust mount at rear: In contact with Givi rack mount to frame (fixed).
Exhaust header bolts all tight.
Oil cooler pipes: Some vibes still get carried up the steel pipes, despite the 'flexibles' at each end: Slipped a length of car heater hose over one - an improvement.
Check around all water hoses to make sure no clips are in contact with plastics, check routing of pump hose is not in contact with plastic.
Check underbelly cover is 'floating' on the 2 mounts and the mounts haven't dropped off, putting the cover in hard contact with the motor.
Check the rubber stops for the stand are still there and also the stand isn't in contact with the muffler can when the bike is loaded and ridden.
Bottom ABS engine cover front mount bracket touching radiator: Checked, close but ok.
Both front engine mounts checked with stethoscope: Right side OK, left side suspect. New mounts going in.
Big black wires from starter and alternator: Check routing and not in contact with frame.
Clutch balance: The oem paint marks don't put the clutch in static balance on my first attempt. Better balancer under construction. This is where I think my problem is - Fun job!

Take all the plastics off first and ride the bike naked. That lets you know if there's a 'plastic to motor couple'. If there is, more digging is needed. Mechanics stethoscope is quite useful to poke around the mounts with, make sure the bolts are tight.

There may be some more I've missed, but these will keep you busy. Good luck.



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Last edited by voxmagna; Sep 15th, 2007 at 3:04 am.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2007, 4:42 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
I'm doing something similar on my '97 KRS after I rebuilt it. But my list needs more than a screwdriver:

Exhaust mount at rear: In contact with Givi rack mount to frame (fixed).
Exhaust header bolts all tight.
Oil cooler pipes: Some vibes still get carried up the steel pipes, despite the 'flexibles' at each end: Slipped a length of car heater hose over one - an improvement.
Check around all water hoses to make sure no clips are in contact with plastics, check routing of pump hose is not in contact with plastic.
Check underbelly cover is 'floating' on the 2 mounts and the mounts haven't dropped off, putting the cover in hard contact with the motor.
Check the rubber stops for the stand are still there and also the stand isn't in contact with the muffler can when the bike is loaded and ridden.
Bottom ABS engine cover front mount bracket touching radiator: Checked, close but ok.
Both front engine mounts checked with stethoscope: Right side OK, left side suspect. New mounts going in.
Big black wires from starter and alternator: Check routing and not in contact with frame.
Clutch balance: The oem paint marks don't put the clutch in static balance on my first attempt. Better balancer under construction. This is where I think my problem is - Fun job!

Take all the plastics off first and ride the bike naked. That lets you know if there's a 'plastic to motor couple'. If there is, more digging is needed. Mechanics stethoscope is quite useful to poke around the mounts with, make sure the bolts are tight.

There may be some more I've missed, but these will keep you busy. Good luck.
Vox

That's awesome! Thanks! I will definitely try that. I didn't even think of taking off the fairing and riding it without plastic, but you're absolutely right - that's what I will start with. And then as you say, go through the entire list. I will start on this on Monday afternoon (after all the family commitments over the weekend are done) and I'll let you know how I go. If I can find and fix the problem, I will be in hogs' heaven because I love the look, feel, quality and ride experience of this bike. It's just a nice machine that works better than its raw spec would have any casual observer realize.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2007, 1:49 am
 
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Question is,, was it buzzing prior to the dealor touching the bike, Matthew
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2007, 12:44 pm
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What I should have said was you need to also identify whether vibration comes from the motor and clutch basket (like mine) and can be induced on the stand in neutral (like mine), or it remains if you were doing a roadspeed at 2Krpm then pulled in the clutch.

What I'm getting at, is there's the possibility of balance and bearing issues for the transmission drive including driveshaft and that simple test eliminates the motor (or puts in the drive). My problem went through the footpegs. There are possibilites to get the plastics 'buzzing' if screws are left out, besides items in my list. It's difficult to reply to vibration problems since some are inevitable with such a large motor, others are just annoying plasticy things and pressure contact in the wrong place and the worst are caused by static and dynamic inbalances in rotating parts which either shouldn't be there or aren't damped by the engine suspension.

I'm sure you'll find it's something simple. I'm fully prepared for mine to be more difficult since my bike had a major refurb. I'm even going to bolt back the old muffler to take out one variable.

You had the service done, they had the plastics off, so my guess is something wasn't put back right or there's now contact through the motor that wasn't there before. There's a lot packed in behind the plastics with very little clearance space.



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