Originally Posted by dohalloran
THanks for the reply. I thought if there's anyone on this board that knows the K12RS pretty well, you would be one of them.
I'm not totally clear on your comments though.
First off, the ModiTec says the pump is shot. But of course, that's the last thing you want
to believe. I WOULD like to believe that I'm simply due for a new battery. And that of course, costs way less than a pump. Start with the least expensive items first, right ?
THe rear wheel sensor I have not had the pleasure of checking thoroughly. I will definitely take your advice on checking that, as well as the wires and gap in 3 places.
That seems to make sense.
But you're saying that there may not be a correlation between pump failure and the lights flashing... I will re-read what ya wrote, and go from there. Thanks again.
This is how I THINK it works: The ABS pump is a very compact high current draw device. When you turn the key and the ABS does its self checks it definitely doesn't operate the pump. If it did, we probably wouldn't be getting so many cases of stuck pistons on older bikes.
However, it's possible for the ABS computer to apply 12 volts for a few tens or hundreds of milliseconds to the pump and detect if the pump is stalled by a stuck piston (high current). It would also check if there was no current draw. This test wouldn't blow any fuses and they could set narrow limits for the current draw test result. The pass or fail result gets saved in memory and the Moditec can read it out. The test could be so sensitive that any slight sticking of the piston driven by the pump gives an out of tolerance current. Unfortunately, whilst the ABS system may have still worked, even freed up a stuck piston or seal, the self check diagnostics is locking it out.
I wouldn't just take a readout of 'Failed ABS Pump' and believe it. Yes, it says there's a problem, but 'Failure' means it didn't pass a certain test and criteria. Since the ABS pump is a brake component effectively sealed, they don't want dealers messing around inside them and aren't prepared to list any serviceable parts. If I had one 'Faulty' I'd definitely want to get inside it, even though I might be unable to replace a faulty part.
I've been thinking that I might be able to come up with some electronics that allows me to excercise the ABS pump into thinking it's handling a real situation for both wheels on the center stand with wheels stopped. I can make the ABS think the wheels are moving and electronically introduce a 1 tooth speed difference at the sensor inputs. That would be cool because I don't like the idea of riding to get ABS working on the front. I didn't mention that on my ABSII there's a relay mounted inside the cover of the unit. If I was removing it, I'd do some basic checks with a meter - relay coil OK, pump has low resistance, etc.
The most common problem on ABS has been sensors and wiring, next comes the pump/sticking piston. After checking all the sensor gaps and connectors, disconnecting the battery negative lead for half an hour should flush any stored error codes. Then you start from afresh.
So much to do and not enough time to do it!
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