2003 K1200rs Plug Wires Shorting - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 2007, 10:08 am Thread Starter
 
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Angry 2003 K1200rs Plug Wires Shorting

Just did a quick check of my bike prior to taking to BMW dealer for 18K service. When I took the plug plastic cap off, I noticed the number 2 spark plug wire was sitting on top of the outside end of the number 4 spark plug cap. There is wear on the plug wire and white oxidation (caused by a short circuit condition??) in that area.

Suggest you inspect yours...perhaps careful use of zip ties will keep the wires where they cannot contact another plug cap.

I have not noticed any engine issues at all. Smoooooooooooooooth as Silk.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 2007, 12:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrisbeeTiger
Just did a quick check of my bike prior to taking to BMW dealer for 18K service. When I took the plug plastic cap off, I noticed the number 2 spark plug wire was sitting on top of the outside end of the number 4 spark plug cap. There is wear on the plug wire and white oxidation (caused by a short circuit condition??) in that area.

Suggest you inspect yours...perhaps careful use of zip ties will keep the wires where they cannot contact another plug cap.

I have not noticed any engine issues at all. Smoooooooooooooooth as Silk.
Here is a page on how the plug wires should be folded behind the cover.
I wouldn't use ty-raps on them.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf '02-'04 BMW K1200RS spark plug routing.pdf (141.3 KB, 111 views)

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 2007, 9:28 pm Thread Starter
 
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This picture shows the problem area. As stated earlier there is some type of reaction from the number 4 plug cap to the number 2 wire. Worth a look see at your K bike the next time the skins are off.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2007, 11:12 am
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Plug Wires

Hey Frizz,
Funny you mentioned the "white oxidation" spots on your wires. Last year I replaced my Bosch plugs with NGK's, 1 heat range cooler. I noticed these "spots" you speak of and noticed they were in areas where the wires were close to metal. I took out my trusty miracle tape, the tape that seals to itself, and wrapped these areas, installed the NGK's and buttoned her back up. We'll when I went on my little test run it was absolutely amazing. I was riding a whole new bike. It had crisp and responsive power like I never had since it's purchase, used w/9000mi. The bad part is I made two changes at once so I don't know which change it was, the plugs or taping the wires. I get the feeling that the "oxidation spots" are actually where some electricity is leaking out. Either way it runs like a scalded dog ever since. Thanks for bringing the subject up, I forgot all about that.

Jim S.
* Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 2007, 11:17 am Thread Starter
 
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Servicing dealer looked at the wires, suggested re-routing them to eliminate contact. Since it's not failed, BMW will not replace. Wear point was extremely minor. No problem with decision from BMW.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 2011, 1:03 pm
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98 K1200 surge, rough idle

Stumbled upon this thread looking for info and thought I'd share.
20k on this engine, 45k on bike, bought new. Started surging around 3-4k constant throttle, slightly rough idle, quite low on power, sluggish throttle response.

Wanted to pull plugs to check em but stopped at the wires as I saw white oxidation as others have #1 wire to #3 metal tab. Further investigation saw #3 at bottom and #2 @ top. Slightly rerouted and restarted, rough idle gone.

Took it for a run and WOW! Where did all of this power come from! Smooth quick throttle response, gobs of power. Left it alone, we'll see how long this lasts.

I did try to get #3 wire off since it was easiest to get at, but it seemed impossible, even after twisting it. Anyone know the secret to removing these?
I'm thinking they'll need replacing soon enough so I'll have to revisit.
TIA.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 2011, 6:26 pm
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If you mean getting the metal covers off you do it when the motor is hot and pull very hard straight out inline. If you twist the cap you will break the brass contact fingers and that will cost you a complete new lead. Turn each one over when it comes off and check if the contacts have broken.

If you pull the cap off undamaged, dust the inside with talcum powder before you put it back.

If you want to check on the condition of the wires, run the bike at night with the left plastic off and look for any blue 'corona' glow and arcing.



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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 2011, 6:47 pm
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Thanks VM, you mean the metal covers are separate from the boots?
So far I have only tried to pull off when cold, I'll try hot.
I already tried the dark view and didn't see any corona discharge.
It is still running great. I see a few different aftermarket silicone hi temp copper cables for $60, anyone have any experience w/these?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2011, 8:37 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinan
Thanks VM, you mean the metal covers are separate from the boots?
So far I have only tried to pull off when cold, I'll try hot.
I already tried the dark view and didn't see any corona discharge.
It is still running great. I see a few different aftermarket silicone hi temp copper cables for $60, anyone have any experience w/these?
I thought about that once. But the oems and connectors are a bit special whilst the lengths are fairly critical to get them to run out nicely from the coils and fit inside the left cover. Those metal shrouds with the connectors inside are fairly deep too. Also you have to think about how the suppression is done. Not 100% sure but I think they do it in the plug cover. With all the wireless, GPS and entertainment addons people put on their bikes you need to take care with that.

If you find somebody who does a set of ready made silicone leads for the K bike, post a link. I don't think the bike will go faster, but for some of us with older bikes and rubber cables it might be an option to consider.



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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2011, 9:06 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
I thought about that once. But the oems and connectors are a bit special whilst the lengths are fairly critical to get them to run out nicely from the coils and fit inside the left cover. Those metal shrouds with the connectors inside are fairly deep too. Also you have to think about how the suppression is done. Not 100% sure but I think they do it in the plug cover. With all the wireless, GPS and entertainment addons people put on their bikes you need to take care with that.

If you find somebody who does a set of ready made silicone leads for the K bike, post a link. I don't think the bike will go faster, but for some of us with older bikes and rubber cables it might be an option to consider.
especially at $250.00 per set..also if using after market plugs the EFI shield will not fit them and will cause issues with electronics and possibly your ECM...
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