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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 2007, 10:24 pm Thread Starter
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ABS (Again!)

O.K. this is getting old, about a year ago I had an ABS problem (with only about 9000 miles) on my "02" K12RS that turned out to be excessively worn rear brake pads, and after I replace them the problem went away, I've only put about 3000 more miles on it since then and have not been aggressively braking, the battery is less then 2 years old and is always on a battery tender so I know there is no problem with the electrics but the last two times out the ABS light's comes on and will not go out for love or money, one time out after the bike was nice and hot I parked it for a few min. letting it "stew in it's own juice" for a while then took it out again and the light stayed out, but this last time out they just stays on. What do I look for? The pad's have virtually no wear on them and the fluid all look to be good. Where do I start? This is getting irritating! This bike has less then 12000 miles on it and has been nothing but pampered, so I have no idea where to look? Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 2007, 10:51 pm Thread Starter
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Re:Never Mind

Just saw the other post, I'll look there. :-)
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 3:51 am
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Depending on how far you want to go after checking the sensors and ABS relay, this is a pretty ground breaking read as I've never read anybody going this far into the 'mystery box':

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=11186



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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 5:57 am
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Abs

Mr Bond, he-he
When the light comes on, do you lose the ABS function or does the light just come on and it's an annoyance?
Here is my account from the same type problem with my old 2000 KLT. I think it was my fault by not properly bleeding the brakes when I changed over to a synthetic brake fluid. There was a bad valve in the ABS pump unit that can only be determined by having the dealer put it on their computer. This took place three times and each time the dealer was able to reset the ABS default and the light would be out for about 1200 miles, and then return. Every time they hooked it up, it kept reading a faulty valve in the ABS pump. I framed that first repair bill because they only charged me $11.87 to hook it up. After I woke up from the shock of the repair bill I was told I would eventually have to replace the ABS pump at a mere $1700.00 w/o labor, I was out again. Shortly after the third time I killed the bike in W. Virginia on some spilled fuel oil so I never had to replace the unit. BTW- When my light came on I had no ABS and was on straight brakes. I did cover the light with some tape.

Jim S.
* Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 7:34 am
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How come you changed over to synthetic brake fluid when all your internal seals and components in the entire braking system are only specified as compatible with DOT4?

Of course the diagnostics was only resetting the fault latch, it wasn't doing anything magic to fix the real fault inside the ABS hydro unit.

Most likely your fault was deteriation of the seals after you put in the synthetic brake fluid. Covering the fault light only gave you peace of mind. If something happened to the seals in the hydro unit, sooner or later it could have been the front brake or master cylinder seals.



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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 8:09 am
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I-abs

007007's bike has I-ABS, which monitors the brake fluid at the rear master cylnder combined resevoir (there are two resevoirs in shared container). When the fluid level is sensed OK, the light goes out, though the fault is retained in memory.Replacing the pads raised the fluid level enough to get the light to go out temporarily. To really check the fluid level almost requires that the right side panel be removed.

Once you have assured correct fluid level, you might want to re-check the battery. If you are using anything less than a genuine BMW or Odyssey battery, you're going to have problems with your ABS.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 10:25 am
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Reservoir - Rear

Quote:
Originally Posted by 54089093
007007's bike has I-ABS, which monitors the brake fluid at the rear master cylnder combined resevoir (there are two resevoirs in shared container).
Just for reference




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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 10:25 am Thread Starter
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Re:ABS (Again!)

Hmmmm, now you guys have given me a whole new bunch of things to look at and think on? If my bike keeps the memory of the fault after the pads where replaced why did it take more then a year to come back? I can't tell if I REALLY am loosing ABS or if it's just an annoyance, that was going to be another question I was going to ask? I did notice one thing the time I got the lights to stay out. As soon as I started it up I took right off, no setting around or anything, I started moving immediately and as I was in some what of a large parking lot I was moving for a couple of seconds before I had to hit the brakes and when I did it was like the power brake's had gone away, I still had brakes but had to pull VERY hard on the handle to get anything to happen and then I let off and kept going and after that the proper feel came back and the lights stayed off for the rest of the ride, that was the only time they stayed out, ever since then the lights come right back on after starting. I'm going to check the sensor, but I need to find out where that is and what the specs are?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 10:37 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007007
Hmmmm, now you guys have given me a whole new bunch of things to look at and think on? If my bike keeps the memory of the fault after the pads where replaced why did it take more then a year to come back?
Brake level will gradually drop in the reservoir. A year later, the level may be back at the point where you get the alarm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 007007
I can't tell if I REALLY am loosing ABS or if it's just an annoyance, that was going to be another question I was going to ask? I did notice one thing the time I got the lights to stay out. As soon as I started it up I took right off, no setting around or anything, I started moving immediately and as I was in some what of a large parking lot I was moving for a couple of seconds before I had to hit the brakes and when I did it was like the power brake's had gone away, I still had brakes but had to pull VERY hard on the handle to get anything to happen and then I let off and kept going and after that the proper feel came back and the lights stayed off for the rest of the ride, that was the only time they stayed out, ever since then the lights come right back on after starting. I'm going to check the sensor, but I need to find out where that is and what the specs are?
Residual braking. When the ABS is in fault mode, the pump is not turned on, and you need the extra effort to apply the brakes. When the fault clears, the brakes work at their more sensitive level of operation. Check the levels in that dual-reservoir...it's also possilble that it's faulting on the front level and not the rear this time.



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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2007, 11:20 am
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Wouldn't it be nice if you actually new what fault was represented by the ABS fault lights? On most cars, fluid level warnings are given on the console by a simple float fitted in the screw cover of the reservoir.

Ray, do you know if the diagnostics actually reads out a low reservoir fault? These reservoirs are pretty small so it doesn't surprise me that moving from a full pad thickness to a worn pad drops the level quite a lot. That might be their logic behind the max and minimum levels.

Max= new pads. Min= They've got a bit worn now.

Max after you topped up the reservoir with worn pads= a big mess when you push back pistons for new pads!



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