Adjusting valves - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2007, 9:23 pm Thread Starter
MIK
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Adjusting valves

I've been reading that K bikes rarely needed valve adjustment. Not my K... Got bike with 6K miles on it. Checked valves first time at 12K -- 1 inlet valve was too tight. Checked again at 24K -- 5 inlet valves were too tight. I guess, the way I ride it has something to do with it... maybe. What is strange is that exhaust valves stay in spec. Weird.

Also, I have a question about checking exhaust valves clearance. The range is 0.25-0.30 mm, 0.25 feeler is still soft enough that it bends if it doesn't fit, but everything 0.3mm and above I can force under the lobe without bending the feeler. Since I am not a mechanic and have to question myself all the time -- I am sure that exhaust valves are not too tight, but I am not sure if they are not too loose. The only thing that keeps me sane is that the valves not suppose to go looser with mileage, so if bike made to 24K without problems then I don't have to worry about valves being too loose. Do I get it right?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2007, 9:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIK
I've been reading that K bikes rarely needed valve adjustment. Not my K... Got bike with 6K miles on it. Checked valves first time at 12K -- 1 inlet valve was too tight. Checked again at 24K -- 5 inlet valves were too tight. I guess, the way I ride it has something to do with it... maybe. What is strange is that exhaust valves stay in spec. Weird.

Also, I have a question about checking exhaust valves clearance. The range is 0.25-0.30 mm, 0.25 feeler is still soft enough that it bends if it doesn't fit, but everything 0.3mm and above I can force under the lobe without bending the feeler. Since I am not a mechanic and have to question myself all the time -- I am sure that exhaust valves are not too tight, but I am not sure if they are not too loose. The only thing that keeps me sane is that the valves not suppose to go looser with mileage, so if bike made to 24K without problems then I don't have to worry about valves being too loose. Do I get it right?

In your second paragraph you answered your own question. With the thicker 0.30mm. gauge you are actually pushing the valve open as you force the feeler gauge between the cam(which will not move and the valve spring bucket(which surely will move when the feeler is "forced" (your word) between the cam and bucket.
Therefore, you are not getting an accurate measurement of your valve clearances.
First, buy a set of angled metric feeler gauges. Then:
Try placing a 0.20 feeler gauge in between the cam and bucket( at 90 to the bucket, not trying to push the feeler in on an andle to the valve!!!!!). If this fits easily, change to a 0.25, if it does not fit the valve is too tight. This method is known as go or no go. You are using two gauges to determine the valve clearance.
You might want to re-check those intake clearances.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2007, 10:02 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
You might want to re-check those intake clearances.
Since intake feelers are so thin, they can't be forced there. They bend way before that. So I am pretty sure about the tight range of measurements. I also thought that there should be some drag when you insert the feeler (since the tolerances are so small). So my confusion was how to distinguish between that drag and too much force applied to the feeler :-)

I'll try the angled feeler gauges method next time (just need to find where to buy it). Thank you for the advice.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2007, 10:27 pm
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I would not worry about your exhaust valves, you were probably pushing the valve open, in any case, its too tight that causes trouble, slightly loose isn't going to hurt anything.

About your intake valves being tight, you were allowing the engine to completely cool before measuring, right?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2007, 10:34 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentboshart
About your intake valves being tight, you were allowing the engine to completely cool before measuring, right?
Yes, overnight actually.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2007, 10:38 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIK
Since intake feelers are so thin, they can't be forced there. They bend way before that. So I am pretty sure about the tight range of measurements. I also thought that there should be some drag when you insert the feeler (since the tolerances are so small). So my confusion was how to distinguish between that drag and too much force applied to the feeler :-)

I'll try the angled feeler gauges method next time (just need to find where to buy it). Thank you for the advice.
The amount of "drag" on the feeler as you withdraw it is a learned art. Generally. it is the lightest feel (or drag) before the damn thing falls out on it's own. Try moving the gauge left to right, from side to side, you might get a better "feel" that way.

You can get angled valve clearance feeler gauges at NAPA, Auto Zone, or any auto supply house. Finding a set with a .004 as the thinnest will require some looking though. Most sets start at .006 ( which is 0.152mm., I think). And you really want one or two gauges thinner than that.
You might even buy a set of straight, go-no go gauges, take them apart and bend the ones you want to use and just tape up the handle ends with colored tape for identification. And leave them loose in your toolbox.
ps. You NEVER want to use a feeler gauge that is bent, dented, dinged, nicked or twisted in the area of the gauge that you are using to check clearance!

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2007, 5:18 am
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I never found a problem with standard feeler guages. I insert them from the side of the cam lobe where the feeler is thickest and draw them out. If I can't get the feeler in and have to go down a size, then I know the clearance is too tight.

I'm not sure about forcing a valve open with a feeler guage, I've always found the spring to strong for that. Mind you, if the camshaft bearings are worn I suppose that could move!

Valve clearances normally close up with mileage, not the other way round. That's because the valve wears down in the seat with all the popping up and down. The cams shouldn't be wearing that much. Since the inlets have the smallest clearance, they are the one's to be careful about. Clearance is only there to stop the valve holding open, as long as there is some clearance the engine won't be damaged and it's hardly going to affect performance. More clearance is better than less, the only downside is possible increase in noise. But the K-brick 'rocks' are so noisy anyway I can't get worked up over a bit of valve rattle when cold. Hearing it is good as long as it quitens a bit a few minutes after starting (oil supply ok), quiet is suspicious.

Valve clearance checks at the stealer must be a big money spinner for them since there are 16 valves to check. It's fairly straight forward for the junior techs to do, they are bound to tell you at least one valve was out and it looks good when the paperwork shows a list of before and after checks with some intervention.



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2007, 5:49 am
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I had the same experience as Voxmagna

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2007, 8:47 am
 
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Yep...if you have valves out of adjustment on this bike...you're not riding it properly. You should be doing triple digit speeds everytime you take the bike out for a ride.
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