2000 K12RS Clutch Replacement - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 14th, 2005, 9:06 pm Thread Starter
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2000 K12RS Clutch Replacement

Time has come to replace the clutch, now slipping in all gears. Probably caused by oil leaking through rear engine seal. Gearbox not loosing any oil. Just looking at spare parts I need (bike still assembled). When replacing clutch, do you replace cover (21212333472), Clutch housing (21212333471), spacer ring (21211451274)? Bike has done 52k miles. Should I replace brushes in alternator and starter motor? Also, the clutch actuating cylinder is prone to leaking, but does not have a rod seal shown in exploded view, only gasket (23122352156). I have heard of people repairing these. Looked at a 2002 model and cylinder arragement looks the same. Where are the seals located and what size are they.

Can you get by without using any BMW special tools to remove/replace clutch (and all the other bits) or do you really need them?

Looks like the whole replacement will take me a few weekends. Planning a 3k mile trip at xmas so not much time. Some parts are ex Germany here in Australia.

Thanks for comments.

Colin
2000 K1200RS Pacific Blue (not the fastest color) but looks good!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2005, 5:37 am
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I've yet to do mine which is holding up ok, but your problem is the same for all of us: How do I plan my repair strategy when the bike is assembled and running?

I think bike mileage and any previous work and service is a big factor. I wouldn't expect to be looking at brushes on lower mileage bikes, then if the seal has been the main cause of failure, many other parts should still be good for more miles. Often replacing parts can bring new problems, but most would agree the clutch slave, normally inaccessible, is an important part to consider. It sounds as though you have been riding with a slipping clutch for a while so I'd expect most clutch parts to be replaced. In the past when I've caught clutches with oil contamination early on low mileage I've got away with just friction plates and oil seals.

If I was doing this job, I'd start by stripping down the clutch to get more info on the condition of parts and the main cause of your problem. Talk to a dealer and find out if BMW have changed or improved parts in the clutch assembly or had service recalls in the clutch area. In the time you have before your ride you could be well advanced with the strip down if you start now and make a better judgement as to what to replace.

I think dealers may be in a better position to return unused parts. If a parts dealer can sell on sale or return basis, even with a reasonable returns charge that would be useful. Since I guess these parts are often imported direct, that's unlikely, so I'd lay up the bike and start stripping now.



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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2005, 8:32 am
 
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If you have a good selection of tools it can be done. Main
problems besides securing it would be the large swingarm
and paralever nuts that have to be heated to remove.
I wouldn't mess with alternator or starter, they should be good
past 100k. The clutch slave cylinder is worth considering
replacing at $80 USD if you have not flushed the fluid much.
If i was planning on keeping the bike I would put a steel
braided clutch hose. Spiegler I think. Wish there was a way
to convert these to use mineral oil. Brake fluid really sucks.
Dunno what size the seal is, I may try to measure it when i get home.
In the US a clutch job can run $800-1000. Take lots of pictures,
it'll help reassembly.



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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2005, 1:30 pm
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I have not gotten into the clutch, however I replaced the clutch slave cylinder this summer. You need a special tool to tighten the retaining nut on the swingarm while at the same time holding a hex wrench on a bearing spacing bolt in the center. I made one myself (with the help of a friend!) by cutting/grinding a window in a heavy duty socket.

Elsewhere on this site it was suggested to remove the swingarm/rear drive as a single unit. This can be done easily, however it was much more difficult to reassemble, especially if you are working alone! I took the rear drive off the swingarm to reassemble.

There was also some dispute on the torque value of the swingarm bearing spacer bolt. The manual calls for I recall 10 nm. Some thought this was a misprint and should have been 100 nm. I trust the manual and think 100 nm is too much preload on the bearing.

I strongly suggest getting a repair manual if you do not already have one. It will be worth whatever you pay!

Good wrenching!

RRG
98' Red Checkered
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2005, 8:39 pm Thread Starter
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k1200RS Clutch replacement

Thanks for the advice.

When clutch slippage is caused by oil leakage and with only 50k miles, should I replace Clutch housing (item 1 in ETK) and Housing Cover (item 6).
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 2005, 8:32 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColB101
Thanks for the advice.

When clutch slippage is caused by oil leakage and with only 50k miles, should I replace Clutch housing (item 1 in ETK) and Housing Cover (item 6).
Not normally. The three clutch parts are 4,5. and 6 and the spring. You also need 8 and 10 to be replaced.

Jack Hawley
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 2005, 8:41 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRG
I have not gotten into the clutch, however I replaced the clutch slave cylinder this summer. You need a special tool to tighten the retaining nut on the swingarm while at the same time holding a hex wrench on a bearing spacing bolt in the center. I made one myself (with the help of a friend!) by cutting/grinding a window in a heavy duty socket.

Elsewhere on this site it was suggested to remove the swingarm/rear drive as a single unit. This can be done easily, however it was much more difficult to reassemble, especially if you are working alone! I took the rear drive off the swingarm to reassemble.

There was also some dispute on the torque value of the swingarm bearing spacer bolt. The manual calls for I recall 10 nm. Some thought this was a misprint and should have been 100 nm. I trust the manual and think 100 nm is too much preload on the bearing.

I strongly suggest getting a repair manual if you do not already have one. It will be worth whatever you pay!

Good wrenching!
The bearings on the swing arm and bevel are good to look at and maybe replace. The right threaded ring is 200nm and the left threaded ring, 10nm. the lock ring is tightened to 160nm. Before all this, the bearing journals left and right are tightened to 160nm.

Jack Hawley
MOA #224
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 2006, 2:27 pm
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How hard??

My 98' slave just blew out. Now, I've done two clutch jobs on my old RT, so I'm familur with a total clutch job. Do I have to pull the much off the rear of a KRS to replace just the clutch slave cylinder? Are there any major 'Gotchas' I must watch for?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 2006, 12:05 pm
 
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getting at an RS clutch is a PITA

The clutc isn't too bad on the RS, just getting to it. The assemble is buried in the middle of the bike and you have to remove the enitre final drive to obtain access. Check the archeives, there is some decent information.

Going to the dealer will cost you about a grand. Just depends how much free time you have.

ONON-
Mark
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2006, 7:33 pm
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New clutch today!

Hello all,
Pick up my K1200RS from the BMW service today. the new replacment clutch is in. very expensive...about $1200.....
I check out the old clutch (50,000km) and it is toast, worn just to the screw mark so it was time...
Wow, now the bike really jams...it use to have more slipping of the clutch to get it off the line..and now it just rocks forward!....More drive in all gears!...I am amazed..those were Happy dollars I spent.

So while the bike was in the shop..BMW -stands for "Bus, Metro, Walk" ...the repair guy laughed!...He said it really stands for "Break My Wallet!"

all for now

Plastics
99 K1200RS silver/blue with a new happy clutch!
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