BMW n00b looking for buying advice on RS - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2008, 9:42 pm Thread Starter
 
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BMW n00b looking for buying advice on RS

Hello all,

First post here. I've own Japanese bikes for the past 15 years, and once I sell my Vulcan I'd like to get something different. The dealer near me has a couple of K1200RSes, a 1998 and a 2001. Generally, are there any years of the RS that are better/worse than others? Any major changes in certain years?

I'm leaning towards the 2001 mainly because it's got a few more accessories (trunk, driving lights, throttle locks), despite higher mileage (50K). is this about right? One other concern is that the ad indicate the bike has a new clutch - is this normal for that mileage, or could it be a sign of abuse?

Thanks!

Mark
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2008, 10:30 pm
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I don't think 50k is a lot for a clutch. I have a 2003 that just had the clutch replaced at 120k, but it was a replacement for the original that was replaced at 45k due to an engine rear seal leak. Oddly enough, the second one suffered an oil leak as well from the rear engine seal. I've yet to wear one out...

It's a dry clutch, and oil causes strange things to happen on a dry clutch. The other item might be a leaking slave cylinder for the clutch, which would contaminate the clutch with brake fluid. So, I'd ask if the engine, slave cylinder, or transmission seals have been replaced. If the clutch was replaced just due to wear, yeah, I'd be a bit suspicious of how the bike was treated.



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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 8:47 am Thread Starter
 
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Ray,

Thanks for the info, that's exactly the sort of clue I'm looking for. I'm planning to hit the dealer this weekend, so it will be good to know what questions to ask.

Mark
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 9:21 am
 
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While you are at it, ask them if the front and rear engine seals have also been replaced. Its an expensive fix and these bikes are known for seal failure.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 9:52 am
 
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The mileage is a bit high for that year bike guess He really liked riding it alot. A new clutch means that something went wrong with the old one. It's always a risk to buy a used bike...only you can decide how much money you are willing to risk to buy it. I would definately have the bike checked out by an independent mechanic..someone who can ride it, take the plastics off and inspect the motor, transmission and anything else. This probably won't happen..so just buy the bike and ride....worry about everything else later.

Last edited by BigHausLittleFalsy; Jun 25th, 2008 at 11:01 am.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 12:03 pm
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Not sure what your budget is, but you should be able to get a 99-00 bike with reasonable mileage (under 20K) for $7K or less. I found such a bike but it took me several weeks of looking.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 3:03 pm Thread Starter
 
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Mike,

Was that private or a dealer? That sounds right for what I've seen and can spend (depending on what I get for the Vulcan, natch).
The dealer has a 98 with 20K for $7K and an 01 with 50K for $8k. So it's in that ballpark. Haven't seen much in my area on Craiglist or Cycletrader, though - but I'm not in a hurry so I can take time to find the right one.

thanks,
Mark
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 3:06 pm
 
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Red K1200RS

I will sell you mine!! It is a 2000 with 27xxx miles on it. Aftermarket Corbin seat with red piping to match and a backrest, system cases, and all good all around. $6700. I am even willing to deliver as long as all paperwork is finalized.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 3:42 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_MB750M
Mike,

Was that private or a dealer? That sounds right for what I've seen and can spend (depending on what I get for the Vulcan, natch).
The dealer has a 98 with 20K for $7K and an 01 with 50K for $8k. So it's in that ballpark. Haven't seen much in my area on Craiglist or Cycletrader, though - but I'm not in a hurry so I can take time to find the right one.

thanks,
Mark
Mine was at a dealer. I got the best deal that I've heard of, though.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2008, 7:36 pm
 
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Presuming all the recalls have been done, I would go with the lower mileage bike. You can put any money you save into an electronic cruise control. The early RS has a throttle spring that makes your hand numb for the first week and after that God help anyone whose hand you shake. You wont like the sound their fingers make as you splinter them. You look at your forearms you will tell Popeye rode an early RS.
Clutch: I bought a 2yr old bike and my clutch went at 24k, so no not unusual, and not a sign it has been cained. Some riders aren't kind to clutches. the replacement has done double that in 5yrs - with me riding it, and no signs of oil seals or slippage.
Look for signs of oil leak around the oil/water pump. The Gasket goo BMW use goes hard and if the Turkish assembly worker in the Berlin factory was having a bad day, they work loose. 2 x 50c O-rings and a tube of blue hylomar for $10. Otherwise bomb proof to 60k miles. Not knowing the history I would avoid a 50k bike it could be nearly shot if oil services were neglected. 24k bike has at worst missed 2 changes. Mine I change as soon as it discolours in the sight glass, and that is within the recommended miles. NEVER MIX MINERAL and SYNTHETIC, they form a glob of gel. took two hours to clear out with the block full of flushing oil. three oil changes 10miles apart and lots of cursing. now she is fine: 10w40 semi every 3-4 months.
By the way, have you ridden the bike? Some don't like the weight, the slow turn in and lack of feel? Personally I freak out Blades, a K12 in the right hands and the right roads is blistering. But you have to know it's limits and have faith to go to them time after time without overstepping them. The anchors are awesome but they will only stop you so many times - hard before they warp or craze which get expensive. You hardly need them most of the time so make sure you use them regularly or they can seize or the pads glaze, just don't hall down from 155mph to 0 with your humerous snapping or you will warp them as I said. Most corners you need third if you want a good exit, but the damn thing will hold anything from 20mph to 140 in 6th even on a steep hill. 50k bike look for any signs of rust on the shock tubes, this blows the seals and they are $1,000 for 2 new shocks which unless they are after marker come with no guarantee, from BMW. Hagon are a good UK after market pair, my mechanic thinks ohlins are doggy doo, no experiene personally. Like the OEM best but beware ebay old ones polished up with chrome cleaner it screws seals too = dirty but rust free should be ok at $100 at least for 5-10k miles. 2yrs 24k miles for new oem if you get road salt on them.

BY the way, BMW changed the main casting seal material in 2002. Part number is the same.
Use Hylomar Blue scrape off the 1307 BM use and your seal wowes will be over.

Last edited by willy13664; Jun 25th, 2008 at 7:51 pm.
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