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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2008, 10:35 pm Thread Starter
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Fuel Leak

Got back today from a 400 mile ride today and smelled fuel in the garage after parking. I pulled the panel (right) and I could see a drip coming from the round plastic cap at the base of the tank. It looked like it was coming from the top of the cap where it meets the fuel cell. The cap holds the disconnects on the bottom. The disconnects were replaced 6K miles ago at 47K on my '04 KRS. Any ideas? Is there a seal on that round plastic assembly that could have gone bad? I hit a big rain at the end of the ride today, could it have broke that seal...heat & rain combo.
Thanks - FlagRS

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2008, 10:44 pm
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Haven't heard of that, but then I don't hear about everything.

Did you try to see if the "cap" could be tightened?

I don't know the process of changing out the fuel pump or the filter, so all I have is more questions.
Did the fuel pump get replaced recently?
Fuel filter changed for the 48k service?

How empty is the fuel tank? You mentioned changing out the QD's, did you keep the good plastic parts? The spare could be used to drain the tank into a container to empty the tank, making a DIY a bit easier.



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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2008, 11:10 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razel
Haven't heard of that, but then I don't hear about everything.

Did you try to see if the "cap" could be tightened? That cap seems to be stable and tight. Does it thread?
I don't know the process of changing out the fuel pump or the filter, so all I have is more questions.
Did the fuel pump get replaced recently? NO
Fuel filter changed for the 48k service? YES

How empty is the fuel tank? You mentioned changing out the QD's, did you keep the good plastic parts? The spare could be used to drain the tank into a container to empty the tank, making a DIY a bit easier.
About a quarter tank left. No I don't have the old QDs and it won't be a DIY. I have a local tech (duc trained) and he has done some good work for me. I will take it to him. My dealer did the QDs at the 48K a few months ago in Phoenix (200 miles).

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2008, 11:20 pm
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You might be able to "snug" the cap nut a little more, try using a rubber strap wrench (harbor freight) while leaving the tank in place. Whatever you do, don't hit the cap nut with a large screwdriver and hammer. You can very easily crack the cap nut.
I have been making it a habit to change the fuel pump flange gasket every time I replace the fuel filter. It would eliminate the problem you are now having.
Use the parts fiche at www.webparts.com to see the gasket.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2008, 11:33 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
You might be able to "snug" the cap nut a little more, try using a rubber strap wrench (harbor freight) while leaving the tank in place. Whatever you do, don't hit the cap nut with a large screwdriver and hammer. You can very easily crack the cap nut.
I have been making it a habit to change the fuel pump flange gasket every time I replace the fuel filter. It would eliminate the problem you are now having.
Use the parts fiche at www.webparts.com to see the gasket.
Thanks a bunch! I will try to snug up the cap. And I will check the fiche in the morning. If that gasket is in the cap then that must be my prob. Is that where the fuel pump and filter is...up above that cap? And the gasket is in the cap?
Thanks again - much appreciated.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 8:46 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlagRS
Thanks a bunch! I will try to snug up the cap. And I will check the fiche in the morning. If that gasket is in the cap then that must be my prob. Is that where the fuel pump and filter is...up above that cap? And the gasket is in the cap?
Thanks again - much appreciated.
The gasket is actually a "flange-type" or "L" shaped gasket that goes into the tank and then makes a flat surface on the bottom of the tank threaded area. The fuel pump base butts up against the gasket with the cap nut against the pump base.
http://www.webparts.com/diagram.php?...30&hg=16&fg=05

This gives you the idea, but the gasket is not flat.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf fuel pump gasket.pdf (114.5 KB, 68 views)

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Last edited by brucecha; Jul 7th, 2008 at 8:51 am.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 11:31 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
The gasket is actually a "flange-type" or "L" shaped gasket that goes into the tank and then makes a flat surface on the bottom of the tank threaded area. The fuel pump base butts up against the gasket with the cap nut against the pump base.
http://www.webparts.com/diagram.php?...30&hg=16&fg=05

This gives you the idea, but the gasket is not flat.
That must be the problem - a $7 gasket. I will order that up and take to my guy here in Flag for a quick easy repair.
I'm a little disappointed my dealer didn't replace that gasket at the 48K when they were in there.
Thanks again - FlagRS

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 3:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlagRS
That must be the problem - a $7 gasket. I will order that up and take to my guy here in Flag for a quick easy repair.
I'm a little disappointed my dealer didn't replace that gasket at the 48K when they were in there.
Thanks again - FlagRS
Did your dealer replace the fuel filter at 48K? Otherwise there is no reason to go in there.

Make sure your mech. identifies the vent hoses before he removes them on the outside of the tank. There is a corresponding pair of vent hoses on the inside that have to be removed before the pump can be removed.
Also mark the pump base in relationship to the tank before you start the removal. The pump can "twist" as the flange nut is tightened and you don't want that.

It's really not a "quick, easy repair".

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 6:33 pm
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fuel filter

i bet the dealer changed the fuel filter and didnt get the flange tight. their is an arrow at the base plate of the fuel pump. notice where it points when dissasembling it and align the arrow the same way when reassembling. a strap wrench is a good tool to tighten the flange with. i've done the job twice, no problems either time. oh, btw. change the fuel filter while u are in there. i just slip the old one off and the new one on, letting the odeker clamps remain. the vent tubes will also have odekers on them, i cut them off with a dremel cutting wheel and just reslip the vents on without clamps. no gas pressure on either vent tube. btw, a check to see if u have the vent tubes connected right? one goes to vapor cannister, other to pavement. pour some gas into filler neck on cell, if gas exits in tube that goes to pavement, it is correct. if not, reverse vent tubes. good luck.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 7:02 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
Did your dealer replace the fuel filter at 48K? Otherwise there is no reason to go in there.

Make sure your mech. identifies the vent hoses before he removes them on the outside of the tank. There is a corresponding pair of vent hoses on the inside that have to be removed before the pump can be removed.
Also mark the pump base in relationship to the tank before you start the removal. The pump can "twist" as the flange nut is tightened and you don't want that.

It's really not a "quick, easy repair".
Yes they did replace the fuel filter in April - 6K miles ago. And I just checked the repair order and there is a gasket on the order #16142347285. listed as "Gasket D=99M". That's the same one. Could that gasket have failed in 6K miles and 11 weeks? It hasn't been leaking fuel until yesterday.
Maybe my "cap" is cracked.

Maybe they did a shitty job putting it on.

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