70km on the original shocks, perhaps? They're generally good for 48km, and a bit notorious for failing before that. However, there are some out there that the riders are perfectly happy with, regardless of the mileage. The stock shocks only have adjustment on the rear shock, preload and rebound damping.
At 120kilos, I'd set the preload almost all the way in, maybe two clicks before it bottoms out. The adjustment is on the left side of the bike, a black knob about 2" in diameter. Twist it clockwise until the stop, then back it out two clicks.
For rebound, the best way is to see how the shock is working first. At the base of the shock, there's a triangular knob. Turn it all the way clockwise, then compress the shock (bounce it with your weight) and observe how it responds. It'll either be a pogo stick or slow as molassas in responding. Turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise, and bounce the bike again. If you got pogo the first time, it should be molassas-slow now (or vice versa...I can't remember if counter-clockwise is the same direction south of the equator
). Anyway, the response should be the opposite. If it's the same, the rebound damping is shot and technically, the shock should be replaced.
Optimum setting is somewhere between pogo and molassas. What you want is the shock to return to it's normal resting place the quickest. Sometimes this is with very little overshoot (pogo effect) noticed. The idea is to return the shock as quickly as possible to the rest point before the next bump.
However, there's a second point to shoot for. The front shock has no adjustments. For rebound, you may consider matching the return rate of the front shock, such that when you bounce the bike and compress both the front and the rear, they both return at the same rate. That gives you a smoother ride as the bike is "in synch".
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