Headlamp lens replacement - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2008, 12:49 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Londin, , UK
Posts: 22
Headlamp lens replacement

I just had a 24K service and annual inspection on my '03 GT (which ended up with a rear seal/clutch/driveshaft replacement) and picked the bike up today to find it failed it's annual safety (MOT) test with a cracked headlamp.

Not wanting to pay BMW labour rates I got them to supply the part, but here's the question:

How much plastic do I have to remove to change the light (not the bulb) and how does it come off?

Ian
imfinlay is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2008, 1:24 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: , SoCal., USA
Posts: 1,507
Ian

You might find a little more crap in the way on a GT, but this will give you an idea what has to be removed.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf R&R headlight.pdf (231.6 KB, 65 views)
File Type: pdf R&R upper fairing panel.pdf (240.2 KB, 38 views)

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
brucecha is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2008, 1:41 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Londin, , UK
Posts: 22
Great, thanks! So I don't have to pull the side panels?
imfinlay is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2008, 2:49 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: , SoCal., USA
Posts: 1,507
To be honest with you, when I removed my headlight (to install a HID) I can't remember taking the windshield or that plastic piece above the headlight out. I think I just removed the front cowl and the three bolts holding the headlight and wiggled the assembly out. I would try that before removing more plastic than necessary.

And no, the side pieces stay on the bike.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
brucecha is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2008, 3:03 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Londin, , UK
Posts: 22
Which part are you describing as the front cowl? I thought it was the piece between the headlight and the screen that also goes under the headlight to the air intakes.
imfinlay is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2008, 4:09 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: , SoCal., USA
Posts: 1,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by imfinlay
Which part are you describing as the front cowl? I thought it was the piece between the headlight and the screen that also goes under the headlight to the air intakes.

Ian
Yes, The part that I am calling the "front cowl" is the piece that goes around the headlight and down to the air intake and oil cooler. It is part #1 in the "upper fairing panel" pdf I posted.
The part that I think I left on is part #3 in the upper right of the same pdf. It also can be seen clearly in the top left of the "R&R headlight" pdf. It mounts like a dashboard cover, from the headlight to the instruments.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
brucecha is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2008, 4:19 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Londin, , UK
Posts: 22
Thanks Bruce! I just did the job (including polishing all the pieces I removed) in less than 30 minutes. In fact it was so easy I'll probably replace headlamp bulbs this way in the future. For those searching in the future, here's a writeup:

Headlight removal procedure

Ensure steering is unlocked, you'll need to move the handlebars from time to time to get access. All screws are the same head, but vary in length and use of washers. Be sure to keep track. Left/right are as if you're looking at the front of the bike.

Remove both hand guards/wind deflectors (2 screws each)
Remove both filler panels between hand guards and wind deflectors (2 screws each)
Remove lower front panel screws (2 under the air ducts, 2 under the filler panels you just removed) and pull the panel forward. Note that there are two tabs about an inch wide going into the upper front panel. These will come out with a gentle tug.
Remove the indicator bulbs from the rear of the housings (a quarter turn releases them)
Remove the lower front panel
Remove three screws holding the headlight in (1 at each side, 1 at the bottom)
Wiggle the headlight forward to free it from the upper front panel
Remove the rear cover by levering the retainer down (I'm not sure this is necessary actually, but it does give more room)
Remove the spring clip from the connector on the right side (use a flat bladed screwdriver to lever it off, then look for where it went) and detach the connector
Pull the headlight out further and turn it upside down carefully, there's still wiring attached
Pull out the running light holder. This is a push fit, mine was scarily tight but it came out OK in the end.
Reverse the process and you're done!
imfinlay is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2008, 7:31 pm
Noob
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
Posts: 10
Out of curiosity, what did your 24k service cost. Mine is coming up and I was quoted $820 in labor plus parts.
Shannon is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 2008, 3:23 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Londin, , UK
Posts: 22
It's a good question, but not easy to answer. Because of all the work my dealer (BMW Battersea in London) negotiated with BMW. The deal was that BMW paid 50% of the parts on the rear main seal and clutch, 80% on the seized driveshaft, and the dealer charged me labour rates at cost. Also the 24K and annual, including all fluids changed. The total cost to me was 1600 UK pounds, or about US$2800.

Ouch.

Plus a headlight (at 5% discount) at about 220 UKP which I fitted myself.

Still, it rides like a dream now!
imfinlay is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2008, 1:57 pm
Looking for better limits...
 
Razel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fremont, CA, USA
Posts: 5,163
Quote:
Originally Posted by imfinlay
Ensure steering is unlocked, you'll need to move the handlebars from time to time to get access. All screws are the same head, but vary in length and use of washers. Be sure to keep track. Left/right are as if you're looking at the front of the bike.

Remove both hand guards/wind deflectors (2 screws each)
Remove both filler panels between hand guards and wind deflectors (2 screws each)
Remove lower front panel screws (2 under the air ducts, 2 under the filler panels you just removed) and pull the panel forward. Note that there are two tabs about an inch wide going into the upper front panel. These will come out with a gentle tug.
Remove the indicator bulbs from the rear of the housings (a quarter turn releases them)
Remove the lower front panel
Remove three screws holding the headlight in (1 at each side, 1 at the bottom)
Wiggle the headlight forward to free it from the upper front panel
*Remove the rear cover by levering the retainer down (I'm not sure this is necessary actually, but it does give more room)
*Remove the spring clip from the connector on the right side (use a flat bladed screwdriver to lever it off, then look for where it went) and detach the connector
Pull the headlight out further and turn it upside down carefully, there's still wiring attached
Pull out the running light holder. This is a push fit, mine was scarily tight but it came out OK in the end.
Reverse the process and you're done!
I'll just add my 2 pence worth...
*Removing the rear cover is an option during the disassembly. The other item is the spring clip can be pulled off or pushed in. You don't lose the clip if you push it, but it needs a bit more dexterity to push it in while (whilst?) pulling the wiring plug from the connector. You can wiggle out the parking lamp as soon as you pull the headlamp from it's anchor, but any time is a good time.

It's far easier (for me) to replace the headlight bulb this way than trying to reach in from behind the assembly and working out the bulb that way. After a couple of changes, you can almost change it out just as fast as the book recommends (from behind) on the RS. The issue with the GT is it also has the electric windscreen motor and control arms that make it a lot tighter for your hands to get into the backside of the headlamp



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3

Ray
2010 K1300GT Royal Blue
2003 K1200GT Orient Blue (for sale)
2007 G650 X-Challenge

IBA #34158

Be a K-Bikes Supporter

I work for Keyser Söze
Razel is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Headlamp bulb replacement Skip_Lynch K1200RS/GT (Classic) 2 Aug 19th, 2007 11:47 am

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome