DIY procedure for replacing rear rotor & brake pads in the 1999 K1200RS
In case anyone needs it, here's what I used as a procedure to replace my rear rotor & pads for my 1999 K1200RS. Notice I go to great lengths to call each component by its proper name; and to specify quantities, sizes, and torques for each bolt. Please correct if I make any mistakes as this is my first time doing this.
REMOVE REAR WHEEL FROM BIKE
- Put the BMW K1200RS on its center stand
- Place the transmission in first gear (as resistance for bolt-removal twisting forces)
- Remove five 17mm wheel stud bolts & washers holding rear wheel onto axle
- Remove the thin 3-inch diameter spacing washer (on the right side)
- Remove the rear wheel out the back (it takes some tugging)
- Clean the rear-wheel contact area shaft drive using a towel and isopropyl alcohol
- Clean the rear wheel with Sonax or P21S wheel cleaner spray keeping it off the tire
Nomenclature: The rear brake disc is composed of three parts. From outside in, they are (1) the drilled stainless steel "brake disc"; (2) the toothed aluminum ABS "sensor wheel"; and (3) the painted ribbed "rear wheel drive" flange.
REMOVE REAR 3-PART ROTOR FROM THE REAR WHEEL
- Remove the rear wheel (see above)
- If necessary, heat the two 5 mm allen-head set screws holding the 3-part rotor to the wheel
- Remove the two 5 mm allen-head set screws holding the 3-part rotor to the wheel
Note: Unlike single-part cast iron bimmer rotors, these 3-part beemer rotors appear to be stainless steel, aluminum, and painted steel - so they don't ship them new oozing with oil to prevent rust; so, you don't have to wash them in brake cleaner or with isopropyl alchool; but it's still a good idea to do so.
Note: If you bought the less expensive factory EBC 2-part rotor instead of the more expensive (by about an extra $150 bucks) Brembo 3-part OE rotor, you'll need to mark where the ABS sensor ring sits on the "rear wheel drive" flange. You'll likely need to heat to remove the three 3 mm allen-head bolts holding the ABS toothed ring to the riveted "rear wheel drive" flange which is riveted to the stainless steel "brake disc" by 10 rivets; then re-install the old ABS ring on the new EBC "rear wheel drive" flange. You do NOT need to remove the 10 rivets!
REMOVE REAR BRAKE PADS FROM CALIPER
- Remove (with an eyedropper) some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir
- Remove two 8 mm allen-head caliper bolts (I'm not sure if this is required)
- Pry off the plastic caliper dust cap on top of the rear caliper
- Push the two two-inch-long caliper pins out a bit from the left (muffler) side
- Remove the caliper top retaining spring held in by the two caliper pins
- Remove the center roller held down by the top retaining spring
- Tap some more from the left and then pull the two caliper pins out from the right side
- Save the two caliper pad pins, one caliper tension spring, and one caliper pin
- Measure friction pad thickness (minimum pad thickness is 1.0 mm (0.040 inches)
- Measure rotor thickness (minimum thickness 0.177 inches)
Note: The stock BMW TEXTAR T4069GF rear brake pads (34-21-2-332-988) are semi-metallic in composition (while the fronts are sintered metal).
Note: If you're just replacing pads and not removing the wheel and rotor, then you can skip to here http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showt...rake+rotor+rear
BLEEDING REAR BRAKES
- Remove right-side side panel
- Remove reservoir cover
- Suction out almost all old brake fluid from the master cylinder with an eyedropper
- Push both caliper pistons back with a four-inch C clamp
- Push two caliper pins out from the left side (pulling from the right side)
- Gather up the two caliper pins, tension spring, and center pin
- Remove the brake pads (yes ... that's what the repair manual says)
- Add newly opened DOT4 hydraulic fluid to the MAX level
- Attach vacuum bleeder to bleed screw
- Create vacuum (how many inches of mercury do you suggest?)
- Open the bleed screw one half turn to allow fluid to flow
- Top off the reservoir as needed to prevent the master cylinder from running dry
- Close off bleed screw when done
Note: The BMW K1200RS Repair Manual specifies bleeding to be done with the rear pads OUT of the top of the calipers but with the rear rotor still on.
Note: If you remove the rear wheel, you don't need to remove the right-side side panel because you can just unclip the rear master cylinder and access it from the rear wheel well.
- Five 17 mm box wrench wheel lug studs = 77 foot pounds
- Two new 5 mm hex rotor set bolts = 16 foot pounds + locktite
- Two 8 mm allen-head caliper bolts = 30 foot pounds
- Three 3 mm allen-head ABS-ring bolts = ??? foot pounds + locktite
- One 11 mm box wrench bleed screw = 9 foot pounds
- Rear ABS sensor gap = 0.45 to 0.55 mm
- New DOT 4 fluid (one US pint) ATE Super Blue or equivalent
Note: The two new 5 mm hex rotor set bolts come with blue "Tuflok" already on them.