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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 5:32 am Thread Starter
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clutch reassembling - terminology explanation required

In an ongoing saga of reasembling a clutch (amongst other things) on a 2002 K1200RS that has now taken over 6 months simply to lack of time, I'm now on the home straight but require more help please.

The BMW manual says the following about tigtening the hex nut on the clutch spline when reassembling the clutch

Install the nut with the collar to the outside and
tighten to specified torque (140 Nm), the damper
is compressed.
Slacken and then retighten the nut (50 Nm).
Use angle-of-rotation gauge,
BMWNo. 11 2 500, to tighten the nut fully.
X Tightening torque:
1. Nut for clutch housing............................ 140 Nm
2. Slacken off .................................................. ........
3. Retighten ................................................. 50 Nm
4. Additional angle of rotation............................ 60


My question(s) is
What is the angle of rotation guage?
What does it do?
Is it necessary to use?

I've replaced a clutch on my R65 successfully without this, so is it required for the K1200RS?

many thanks in anticpation
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 7:44 am
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Tighten the nut to 140 Nm, then back it off. Re-tighten to 50 Nm, then turn the nut another 60 degrees after the torque wrench "clicks" (assuming you're using a clicker type torque wrench).

There are several ways to specify bolt tension besides torque. For some reason, the engineers wanted to use a torque + rotation angle for this application to get the correct amount of bolt tension.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 8:04 am
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I have an angle gauge I bought for my 1/2" torque wrench years ago.

But you can get close to measuring the angles with a kids protractor stuck on the torque wrench hex with blue tack or a pointer, if it's the reversible type.

For future, it's probably worth setting the torque wrench low and to undo, then increase torque setting until the clicker stops and the nut just starts to move, then see what torque their final 60 degree corresponds to.



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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 10:27 am
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Simplest solution for me was to use the fact that the large hex nut has six sides and therefore each corner is 60 degrees apart. Simply mark one corner on the nut (I used a sharpie), then place a mark on the clutch housing at the next nut corner (60 degrees clockwise). Turn the nut until your marks line up and your done. Of course, only do this after you've re-torqued to 50 Nm, and make sure your clutch housing is secured and won't turn.

I first tried to use an angle guage but found it too cumbersum, mostly because my long 30mm impact socket kept wanting to slip off while I was trying to secure the angle meter to the housing.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 11:51 am
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Xenonrd way of getting 60 degrees will work fine.

For ten bucks you can buy the angle of rotation gauge tool in most auto parts stores.
I had to have the wife watch the needle on the angle gauge when I tightened the nut.

Now I owe the wife for helping and have a tool I may never use again.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 6:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhhall
Tighten the nut to 140 Nm, then back it off. Re-tighten to 50 Nm, then turn the nut another 60 degrees after the torque wrench "clicks" (assuming you're using a clicker type torque wrench).

There are several ways to specify bolt tension besides torque. For some reason, the engineers wanted to use a torque + rotation angle for this application to get the correct amount of bolt tension.
The large % of torque you see on your gauge is actually from friction of the bolt head and threads and not the actual stretch of the bolt...to bring the "stretch" within closer specs is to find the friction limit and because there is a known stretch with each degree of rotation its more accurate.Especially if its a "dry" torque..somethin like that

Last edited by BAK04GT; Jul 2nd, 2009 at 6:46 pm.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 8:43 pm
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Yep, you've got the general idea. For real accuracy, you actually measure the stretch in the bolt as you tighten it. The question is why they wanted more accuracy on this particular fastener.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 2:22 am Thread Starter
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re clutch reassembling - terminology explanation required -

Thanks everyone for your input. It really has cleared it up for me and I'm sure many others will benefit from your great input as well.
rgds
RogerWilco
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