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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2009, 9:37 pm Thread Starter
 
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ABS Troubleshooting

I've looked quite thoroughly over the forums to be sure I wasn't asking something that had already been addressed but didn't see anything so here goes.

I have a 2003 K1200 GT. Bought it new in 2003 but only rode 1K in the first 4-1/2 years. Wasn't in jail but it's a long story.... involved a dog.

Anyway, I've put about 5K on it since last November and ride to and fro work daily as well as hour plus rides several times a week on the lovely back roads of Marin and Sonoma counties in Nor Cal. Here ends my intro...

Problem: ABS system test fails when turning on ignition. Was intermittent problem at first now 100% of the time. Both ABS warning and general warning lamp are on solid (no blinking). Servo motor sounds like it runs continuously.

O.K. Bike sat for a long while (up to last fall) so here's what I've done.
1. Installed new battery (last week)
2. replaced rear brake light
3. Checked/filled every reservoir I can find.
4. Checked all wire harness related to braking system.
5. Uninstalled all added on accessories to get back to a plain system.

All threads I've read on this site and ibmw.com have information related to ABS1 and ABS11 but not the i-ABS (ABS111, right?) Because of this I feel like I'm a bit in the dark. I can't find any comments about the solid warning lights, only blinking ones. Also - not sure if the pin references on troubleshooting the impedances are the same for this system.

Anyone have ideas on what else I can check before giving up and going to the stealer?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 12:12 am
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If you are lucky only air in the system, sitting so long without any brake circuits activated could mean seized parts in the modulator,calipers etc...etc.... I would give it a good bleed first then see what happens.Lots of threads on that. Both your lights may be On at the same time, but it is not shown in the fault table. If the general warning light stays on it may be because of the ABS fault but it may be unrelated.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 2:51 am
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It sounds as though you have looked at the obvious things.

With these computerised bikes the computer self-checks can be their worst enemy.

Now fight fire with fire, get the ABS fault codes read out by the stealer. Perhaps you only pay for a diagnosis, then think the next step if the news is bad? If they say it's the modulator, the cost of the diags check pales into insignificance.

It will save you a lot of time and you will at least have more to go on. After all, working braking systems are important, even though the flashing lights are a nuisance.



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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 10:14 am
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I had a similar problem as you described with my foot lever causing the problem. The foot lever pivot was sticking because I had not lubricated it.
With the foot lever not fully returning it would cause the ABS pump electrical switch to stay on upsetting the ABS code default. There are two electrical switches one for the ABS and one for the stop light.

This problem was mentioned a few weeks ago on this site or some other site.

Just slide the foot lever off, then clean and lubricate the pivot bushing.

Best of luck, as we say in Las Vegas.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 10:36 am
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Abs

Quote:
Originally Posted by bazra
I had a similar problem as you described with my foot lever causing the problem. The foot lever pivot was sticking because I had not lubricated it.
With the foot lever not fully returning it would cause the ABS pump electrical switch to stay on upsetting the ABS code default. There are two electrical switches one for the ABS and one for the stop light.

This problem was mentioned a few weeks ago on this site or some other site.

Just slide the foot lever off, then clean and lubricate the pivot bushing.

Best of luck, as we say in Las Vegas.
If the ABS is bad that is one big OUCH on the checkbook. But I want to hear the story about the dog.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 12:17 pm
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Another side comment here. I wonder just how frequent a TRUE need for an ABS modulator replacement is (one that has been adequately cared for). If with some good detective work other sensors are found to be a problem or just needing cleaning or something bleed / flushed or lubed... VS a dealer getting the fault code and getting the customers OK to change the modulator. There have been several recent comments here that at first blush looks to be a bad modulator that was a result of something else needing attention in a very complex system. Any thoughts experts???

And perhaps we can also hear the story about the dog from motomonk

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 1:15 pm
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I'd go with a brake flush first. On the top tool bar for the web site there's "Technical", Hall of Wisdom, Flying Bricks, Maintenance, Braking system, Bleeding brakes. If you're up to doing it yourself, but it is a tedious process if you haven't done it before. Read the whole thing to find the special tool(s) you need.
Or, take it to a BMW shop and heve them do the bleeding, and advise if the errors persist. The servo has been known to fail, but it's rare. Brake lamp flashing quickly usually means one of the two brake switches is engaged. Push out the brake lever for 5 seconds or lift the brake pedal for 5 seconds and see if the flash rate slows. I've not had the triangle lamp flash, so there's something else (that hopefully the brake flush resolves).



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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 1:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCStephen
Another side comment here. I wonder just how frequent a TRUE need for an ABS modulator replacement is (one that has been adequately cared for). If with some good detective work other sensors are found to be a problem or just needing cleaning or something bleed / flushed or lubed... VS a dealer getting the fault code and getting the customers OK to change the modulator. There have been several recent comments here that at first blush looks to be a bad modulator that was a result of something else needing attention in a very complex system. Any thoughts experts???

And perhaps we can also hear the story about the dog from motomonk
The bad modulator starts with the fault code for bad modulator. If you have other fault codes you can relax a bit more on the $$s.

The ABS modulator is not a BMW serviceable item. But I've read of 2 pertaining issues. One is a relay diode which is fairly accessible inside the unit can fail = dead pump fault. The other is stuck,seized piston (s) = dead pump fault.

You can't get any parts for the modulator internals, but one patient member went as far as the sticky pistons and re-assembly.

Once all the other obvious parts have been checked, it really is down to knowing if you have that 'bad modulator' fault code or not.

I don't know how you care for a modulator. Changing fluids helps but that won't help their sticking pistons that spend most of their life in the same position. I think you have to have it come on a few times!



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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 2:29 pm
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Vox,, do you think any many some dealers might have replaced a modulator when the actual difficulty was another part within the system thus giving the modulator the bad name of a failing part . I guess that was my question.

But following your logic, so perhaps activating the ABS from time to time isn't a bad thing?

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 3:48 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thank you.

Thanks to all of you for the advice. I'll tackle them one by one.

Couple of questions:

Bazra - when you say "foot lever" are you referring to the rear brake lever?

Voxmagna - Is there a way to read fault codes myself? I recall seeing something related to this in another post or site. Might have been from Anton Largiader's site. Ah, ABS Readout Light. Are the fault codes Motronic or ABS or are those one in the same?
Also - are you referring to sticky pistons on the brake calipers or inside the ABS modulator?

One last question. When any of you refer to "brains", is this the Motronic device?

Cheers,

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