Screwed Up Changing Clutch Fluid - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2009, 8:17 pm Thread Starter
 
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Screwed Up Changing Clutch Fluid

I attempted to change the clutch fluid on my first-gen GT (2004) last weekend. I followed the excellent directions posted on this forum for doing the brakes and clutch.

To bleed the clutch, you have to locate the filler adapter located inside the body work just above the rear brake pedal. You remove the grub screw, replace it with a bleed valve, and bleed away. SEEMS simple enough...

Problem is, I stripped the head of the grub screw trying to get it out. I tried so many things to get it out, I finally broke through the back of the grub screw, so now I'm leaking clutch fluid.

I'm trying to figure out what has to be replaced here, and how to go about it. The fitting at the end of the hose seems like it might be easy enough to replace, and seems to be in two pieces that might unscrew from each other. The online parts fiche seems to bear this out - it's called the "ventilation screw", and it's about $39.

So, do these two pieces simply screw apart from each other, or is it something more complicated than that? I don't want to screw up the $104 "vent pipe hose" on top of everything.

I know there's a little ball valve behind the grub screw, and based on what I've read it should be stopping the fluid from coming out, so maybe I've hurt that too. Does it matter?

TIA for any help/advice!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2009, 12:12 pm
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Mmmmm nobody else has replied yet...must all be out riding!

From what I do know, that plastic dohicky with the grub screw and ball valve is used by BMW to fill the system at the factory. They do not go from the reservoir down and then have to bleed the system. Theoricaly you could take the whole thing right off and cap the hose, that is if you can find the right plug. To bleed the system you would have to pump the clutch then unscrew the plug , let air and oil out , retighten the plug without releasing the clutch, and repeat until the system is flushed.

I do not know if you damaged the ball valve trying to get the Grub screw out, but maybe only debris got stuck in there. Try pushing the ball valve in a few times with something small all the while putting slight pressure on the clutch to force debris out , it might clear it,then try bleeding by using the ball valve to release the oil instead of a bleeder.You will need an extra set of hands to do that.

If that grub screw is still in there, take the whole thing off, cut a slot across everything with a hack saw, going down into the grub screw enough to put a flat screwdriver in it and try that way. Putting the thing in boiling water might help to free it too.Sometimes trying to screw in first then back helps breaking the seal, you might have to do that a few times.

I just finished bleeding my bike and put everything back together, otherwise I would have tried bleeding with the ball valve to see what happens....too late....! I've seen other posts where they had problems with the grub screw......and do not like the $39.00 they want for that piece of plastic....!
Good luck!

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2009, 12:21 pm
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OOPS...forgot... that grub screw is there as a safety, I've seen a warning somewhere not to ride without it.....but I think it's only there to prevent debris and corrosion . it should not be a problem to ride without one for a while......someone will correct me if I am wrong....! It's only the clutch after all.....not the brakes....! Please read what I posted today on ABS111, after bleed test and residual braking action.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 2009, 9:41 pm
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Think of your situation this way; even with the problem you had messing up the part, you're still going to save $ over what you would have had to pay at the dealership when all is said and done, and you will have learned something to boot...

Doug
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2009, 6:53 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddawg
SEEMS simple enough...

I'm trying to figure out what has to be replaced here, and how to go about it. The fitting at the end of the hose seems like it might be easy enough to replace, and seems to be in two pieces that might unscrew from each other. The online parts fiche seems to bear this out - it's called the "ventilation screw", and it's about $39.

So, do these two pieces simply screw apart from each other, or is it something more complicated than that? I don't want to screw up the $104 "vent pipe hose" on top of everything.
This problem was discussed at length a couple of years ago It's my understanding that you can remove the "ventilation screw" entirely and replace it with a 10mm. brake bleeder screw directly into the "vent hose pipe".
You might want to pull the "vent screw" and see if it has a tapered end like a bleed screw. You have nothing to loose at this point.

Bruce C
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2009, 4:44 pm
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I've never seen this grub screw because my bike has always had a bleed nipple on the end of the plastic tube.

I think the issue of replacing the tube if the end is damaged, has a lot to do with getting access to the slave cylinder where it is connected and that's probably a PITA.



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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2009, 11:15 pm
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I took the back fill valve off and just put the bleeder right on the end of the hose.
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