K1200RS Brake/clutch Bleed Screw (Adaptor) - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2009, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
 
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Smile K1200RS Brake/clutch Bleed Screw (Adaptor)

Hi

I Have ruined the grub screw on my front caliper. This is the right side caliper with the adaptor contraption. I reckon it has never been used and was impossible to loosen. It was turning the whole adaptor. Is it possible for me to remove the adaptor completely and fit a standard bleed screw or speedbleeder? i.e. Is the thread size the same as the other bleed screw on the opposite front caliper.

My bike is 1999. Are there separate bleed screws for the abs unit. I havent spotted any yet?
Could be I am blind.

Second question is about the clutch bleed screw. I havent found it I have to remove the right side fairing or search under it. From reading other posts it would seem there is another one of these adaptors here also. Can I replace this with a normal bleed screw or speedbleeder?

Best Regards

Tony
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2009, 7:42 pm
 
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I have an LT but the adapter was removable on my right front caliper. If you're bleeding the brakes anyway, you might apply some heat to the adapter at the caliper. That should help break it loose; a standard brake bleeder or speed bleeder fits in its place.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2009, 10:31 pm
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twisting off adaptor on right side caliper

I just wanted mine off to put a speed bleeder in its place and becaus it (the adaptor) is made off aluminum,and had been in contact with brake fluid it is corroded in place. (mine is a 2000 krs) I found this out aplying adequate force to twist the long end of it off. leaveing the portion with od threads in the caliper, although it was very difficult to machine (by hand drill) the rest of the treads out of the caliper.and by hand pick the small remaining pieces out of the existing theads in the caliper, then with the stock size tap clean the existing threads up.the speed bleeder is working properly now (no leaks) I can not tell you how folish I felt to have to sweat through ,fixind my dumb move, my speed bleeder would have fit in that adapter. so if this happens tp you it can be done. with great difficulty,, good luck joesflashdog the stock fast red reliable 2000 rs

Last edited by joesflashdog; Aug 16th, 2009 at 10:33 pm. Reason: spelling
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2009, 4:09 am
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I've got a '97 KRS and never seen a speed bleeder or fitted one, but I guess they are more complicated with an integral one way valve. I prefer the slit bleeder tube and jam jar approach - no valves there to stop working or corrode.

I assume my bleed nipple is still the oem and I have something similar on the clutch line.

I'm sure my stock brake bleeder is steel 'cos I notice it tarnishes over, even though they are fitted with protective rubber caps which I've always thought important like tire valve caps. But then they get lost easily. I do tighten very carefully.

I think you have to be very careful removing a stubborn bleeder from the caliper. The most important part is the internal machined seat at the bottom and I would go with picking away at the threads first. I'm sure they use a coarse taper thread but can't remember if that's the nipple, the caliper, or both. Even so, I'd keep any drill or tap well off the bottom. Now it also occurs to me that a speed bleeder with integral valve may still seal in a caliper with a damaged bottom seat, but I doubt whether the oem bleeder would. Something to think about.

If you are seeing signs of corrosion and siezed bleed nipples, when was the brake fluid last changed?

The left and right calipers use the same threads and oem bleed screws.

The ABS11 bleed screws sit on top of the ABS hydro unit, left side, panel off. There are 2.

The clutch bleed screw is underneath the right side panel on the end of a short 6" stub of black plastic tube which looks like the clutch line. Look forwards of the battery in the void space.

Be careful with heat. Even with the pistons and seals removed, there are O rings between the caliper halves (which you never separate!). The caliper bodies are such a large ali lump it might be difficult to get any local heating without the whole caliper and seals getting too hot.

With any 'extraction' work to do, you should take the caliper off the bike and remove the pistons and seals to repair on a work bench, whilst being paranoid about getting any swarf back into the caliper. I would probably have an air line nearby. You need to be meticulously clean.


Think about getting a manual.



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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2009, 1:05 pm
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no coarse tapered thread

It is a stock common metric thread not a tapered thread as previosly mentioned,generaly only pipe threads are tappered, and the speed bleeder looks the same on the sealing end as the stock one. joesflashdog

Last edited by joesflashdog; Aug 17th, 2009 at 1:08 pm. Reason: add to
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2009, 3:50 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thumbs up

THanks very much for all the info, I have the various options and can make an informed choice. What I want to do is replace the existing adaptor with bleed screws. I have some bleed screws from car calipers which I will try first. If they are not suitable I will order the speedbleeders

Cheers Tony
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2009, 3:43 am
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Why take chances with such an important small part which probably isn't that expensive compared to your life when you are on a heavy rocket needing to stop at 70mph and a rear brake efficiency of 15%?

Parts 7 & 8.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...96&hg=34&fg=05

And yes I see they say the thread is M10, but you can also see the taper cone on the bottom and this has to match the seat profile in the caliper.



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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2009, 1:41 pm
 
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I've fit speed bleeders to mine and they are brilliant to use. If you do not have them seated properly they will leak as they still need a perfect taper at the bottom just like the OEM ones. The valve works on pressure to let the fluid out through the valve (spring loaded ball bearing) when the lever is pulled and the ball bearing lets the fluid out. Release the pressure and the ball sits back to block the hole so that no air can get in. If it is not seated correctly it will leak each time you pull the lever/apply foot brake.

The rear speed bleeder is different to the front two bleeders. The one that fits the rear caliper also fits the clutch adaptor/factory filler and the ABS adaptor filler, see below.

I also use a speed bleeder on the clutch line where they factory fill it, and on the ABS factory filler adaptor. I removed the adaptor with the grub screw in it, and put the speed bleeder in it's place. It saved me the pi****g about when I did the ABS full fluid change. I left it in place when I had finished.

Oh, and I had to get them from the USA as I could not find a supplier here in the UK, about $8 each.

Last edited by sundancer; Aug 18th, 2009 at 1:55 pm. Reason: Adddition to info
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2009, 5:20 pm Thread Starter
 
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I have no intention of taking a chance. I will check the caliper bleed screw on the left. If the ones i have are not a match I will either buy originals or get the speed bleeders.

I want to have as much info as possible before I buy as the BMW shop doesnt give much help. They say that all bmw's with abs have to be bleed in the worksop by computer.


Thanks re the speedbleeders I was checking and it seems as if the US is the only way to get them.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2009, 5:44 pm
 
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Fair enough, But if you search this forum you'll see it can be done with our bikes. No problms with mine and no computer......It's your money
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