Front end vibration: Time for new tyres??? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2009, 2:41 pm Thread Starter
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Front end vibration: Time for new tyres???

Hi everyone.
I've just returned from a 1000km ride over the weekend and the bike developed a front end vibration, small to moderate, mainly under deceleration or descending hills.
It's only got 6000kms on it, on the OEM Bridgestone Battlax 020's on the front (now 5 years old).
Plenty of meat left, but they are such a 'blocky' design, I wonder if the tyres have gone off and scalloped? I don't see much scuffing, but they do have what feels to be rises in the rear of each block on the left side of the tyre. Pressures are fine, and no tyre or rim damage, weights insitu.
If it's not the front tyre, then I've got bearing issues, so I'll replace the tyres first.
I'm leaning towards the Michelin Pilot Power 2 as a replacement, and haven't found any comments in over 10 pages of reading back.
Any comments re these tyres on the 2004 RS?
Any Aussies on the list, what are these worth for a pair?
Ride safe.

Ken.

Nth Queensland
AUSTRALIA

2005 K1200S

Last edited by baytown; Sep 2nd, 2009 at 2:46 pm.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2009, 4:32 pm
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tyres

Kenneth I had that problem with a previous bike, took my hands off one day and damn near lost it. Consider who balances your tyres and how professional they are. I used to go to Bob Jane, on a good day they are okay.

But I decided do it yourself was the go. I bought a gravity balancer from a guy just leaving the racing scene. (they use them for the Grand Prix) $200 on ebay. I half fit the tyre and balance the wheel, moving the tyre as required. When that is done I fit the tyre fully and recheck. No need for weights.

The machines in my opinion do not do a thorough job compared to a bloke with a good beer fridge, garage, gravity balancer and all afternoon to fill in.

By the bye. Do not use the same valve like I have been doing; until I recently saw a club member having a bad day with a faulty tyre valve.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2009, 7:09 pm
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Wow, talk about timely thread. You could be writing about my bike. Same tires and mileage, noticed a little new wobble coming home last night from an out of state trip.
Sorry, I don't know if it is the tires. I do know I don't like the Bridgestones and am planning on replacing in the next few weeks. I'm going with the Avon Storms. Don't know if you can get them down there on the other side of the planet.
I'll post if I find anything better out. Good luck
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2009, 9:23 pm
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Hey Ken, Been there with all of it:
1 Have used Pilot power up front and pilot road on the rear for last 5 years and been very happy.
2 Changed to PR2's front and rear and not so happy. Front scalloped badly
3 Went back to power up front and PR2 rear - happy again
4 HOWEVER at #3 changed stuffed wheel bearings {76000km] as they were rusted out due to the seal on the LH side [ABS side] wearing grooves in the steel spacer. It is a case of the soft part wearing out the hard part. If you remove the wheel and pull out the spacer from the dust seal and study it for two faint grooves starting to appear. These grooves will develop and allow moisture into the both bearings. Once this happens, the bearings begin to collapse creating a wobble when rolling the bike from left to right, over the vertical. Its when vertical that the wobble appears. IMHO this problem also generates general subtle instability, often being felt in the rear, but hidden when carrying a pillion or luggage until it gets really bad. When I refitted the spacer I packed the seal with high temp wheel bearing grease to [hopefully] prevent the same re occurring. Also every time I remove the front wheel I stick a finger in the bearings and check for smooth rotation.
5 Finally, I fitted up Ohlins front and rear and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!! Believe everything you read about these shocks - they are worth every penny
6 As for the valves, worth changing them - I got a flat but could find no puncture. Traced fault to the valve which came away in my hand with a good tug! Left behind was the black stem. BTW to fix, I cut off the old stem, bought a car valve at the local garage and with plenty of persuasion and spit forced the new valve in the "wrong" way. Stayed there until I changed the tyre.
Remember, any new tyre will always feel great when it's replacing an old stuffed one. It's how it feels 10000km down the road when you are in the last 10% of the tyre that counts
Hope this helps...

2002 K1200RS Ride #18. Owned from new. Pacific Blue of course. Suspended on Ohlins. 120,000+km
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads
1916 Triumph Type H, Western front, France WW1 - my Grandads
The cheapest is often the most expensive form of economy
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2009, 9:42 pm
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All above comments are true.
i would worry about tires that old. Dry Rot, inside where you can't see it.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2009, 9:51 pm Thread Starter
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Yep, the bloody tyre has failed.

G'day fellas.
Thanks for all the info. I've just come back from a 100km ride and checked the tyre. Yep, got a blow out in the tread on the surface of the tyre. Looks like a hernia in the tread block, which would explain all the vibration, so I'll not ride the bike until I get the new rubber fitted. The tyre has plenty of meat left, just failed inner wall. That means I got about 9000kms out of the OEM Bridgestone Battlax 020.
That'll be the last of them I fit.
I'll let you know what I go with and how they ride ASAP.
Thanks again.

Ken.

Nth Queensland
AUSTRALIA

2005 K1200S
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2009, 4:45 pm Thread Starter
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Got a set of Michelin Pilot Road 2's

Just had the new tyres fitted yesterday.
Michelin Pilot Road 2's with the duel compound.
Bike is rock solid and tracks straight. They certainly look good on the bike.
I've only done 100kms on them since yesterday, and had to take it easy due to the new rubber, but looking forward to giving them a run this weekend.
For the Aussies and Kiwis on the list, price fitted from Rising Sun Honda in Townsville was $640 for the pair. ($75 for the fitting and took a week to get the rear up here.)
I'll let you know what I think, but my bearing concerns were unwarranted, it was just the old front tyre going off.
Now to just start saving for a set of Ohlins front and rear!
Best wishes everyone.

Ken.

Nth Queensland
AUSTRALIA

2005 K1200S
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2009, 9:14 pm
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Wow things are sure expensive down under. How much of that was tax and import duty?

In the USA we pay about $175 for the rear and $135 front plus between $20 and $40 to mount on the rim and ballance, then about 6 to 9% state tax.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 2009, 4:23 pm Thread Starter
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Aussie Tyre Prices

G'day Barry.
Yep, we pay a lot more for most automotive services and products here than you do in the US. I've been to the US many times, and I'm always amazed by the range of products you have and how cheep things are.
I wouldn't be able to tell you the import taxes or costs, but we have an Goods and Services tax of up to 10%. A new BMW K1300S will sell for around $30K AU with the GT going for $33K with all the bells and whistles.
I spose we are at the bottom of the world and there's not that many people to sell to compared with the US and Europe.
I know I purchase a lot of stuff from the US via Ebay or direct from sellers (such as Jerry at Pirates etc)
We just grin and bear it!
Best wishes mate.
Ken

Nth Queensland
AUSTRALIA

2005 K1200S
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2009, 4:49 am
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Hey Barry and Ken, it gets worse across the ditch in New Zealand. A new 1300S FULLY optioned and registered to ride is about NZ$37000 but with a conversion of US$0.71 that works out at US$26,240. Anyone tell me the ride away price of this bike in the USA? BTW thats with two tone paint, quick shift, computer, traction, side cases and all the usual bits. I recently purchased Ohlins front and rear for NZ$3500. Thats US$2480. On ebay they were US$1900, but add duty and GST at 12.5% and the the 580 buck saving begins to erode. Plus, the shocks were set up beautifully for me by the NZ distributor with all sag levels within parameters and of course all the backup if needed.
Good luck with the PR2's Ken. They are great tyres. Personally I've stayed with the PR2 on the rear but gone back to the Power on the front at nearly $100 bucks cheaper [$220.00] and the same milage [about 10000km]. Wear levels were much the same with plenty of tread on top, and well worn on the edges. Keen to hear what you think down the track....
Remember, with Ohlins, you are not buying them, you are just renting them while they are on your bike. When you sell your bike you fit the old shocks and sell the Ohlins on ebay.
Cheers,
Richard

2002 K1200RS Ride #18. Owned from new. Pacific Blue of course. Suspended on Ohlins. 120,000+km
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads
1916 Triumph Type H, Western front, France WW1 - my Grandads
The cheapest is often the most expensive form of economy
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