The dreaded leak can come from either one or both of two places - a cheap O ring type seal in the clutch assembly (which they should have changed) or the output shaft seal (which thay may stupidly have left because your main issue was with a burned clutch and not necessarily a problem caused by an oil leak.
Clutches don't just burn out unless something is bad about the way they are treated. You can do half your shifts (the ups) without using the clutch! and of course you don't sit at stops holding in the clutch particularly in long Summer traffic queues?
If you had really burned clutch, rather than it got contaminated with an oil leak, that means there was a lot of heat in the clutch and heat is bad both for the clutch O ring and the output shaft seal. So I'd first start wondering what I was doing to destroy clutches?
My bike is a 97. Your bike has worn itself in with plain old dyno oil and that's what they designed all the parts for. BMW motors aren't far advanced from tractor engines, so you must ask why you would want to spend more on a synthetic oil? There have been zillions of posts on the synthetic versus dyno arguments, but others have said they switched oils and afterwards got leaks. The oil seals will harden and lose their flexibility with age and there has been much debate about the effects of switching. The oil companies will all argue compatibility but you have to make up your own mind. My bike has never had even a sniff of synthetic.
OK now you have to move forward. If you are doing the job yourself first time you are less likely to cause damage if you do split the tranni and swing arm. Both together they are a big heavy lump and drive shafts have to be properly located. You are also better able to check for oil leaks on the pinion and tranni seals whilst making sure the swingarm bearings are nice and free.
You will need a lot of dry space, patience, a Clymer shop manual - oem CD too if possible, an engine hoist and a few special tools you can make - search the archives, plenty there.
If you want to use an independent tech. only use somebody who has done this job before and check they have the tools to do it. Your labor (free $$'s) first time around taking care and stopping for beers might run to 4-5 days for strip and rebuild then hanging about for parts. If they've done it before (recently) they could probably do it in 2 days or less at their labor rate.
Make sure the clutch slave cylinder is replaced along with all the seals. If the clutch is worn down again start wondering why that is. Did they actually replace everything or just the disc? If they just replaced the disc (cheap skates) they were only minutes away from replacing the cheap clutch 'O' ring and an hours labour replacing the engine seal.
Sometimes, you may never really know what was done before, the only way to be sure is do it yourself or trust a tech. that can show you parts when the bike is dismantled and new parts they will fit.
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