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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 2010, 11:30 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Largo, FL, USA
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New 2

Greetings. Newbie saying hello.

Picked-up the RS I have been dreaming about for years this morning. Rode it home about 200 miles from St Augustine to Largo Florida on secondary roads. Rainy when I left, but it cleared-up by afternoon. A bit cold though, with all the evaporation. About fifty degrees.

Bought it from the owner's brother and the manual is still with his brother (he has promised to send along next month when his brother comes home from serving Iraq), so I will have some some questions that will seem obvious.

For instance, I don't think the handlebar warmers work. What's with the dots and what's good to look for?

Which shop manual is the better?

Is touch-up paint available?

And, yes, I do know how to use the search button.

Good-night Scarlet. Tomorrow is another day.

"Cogito ergo zoom!"
Safety comes before speed. - Check the dictionary.

1999 Sportster "S" Cardinal Red
2000 ZRX1100 Jade Green
2003 K1200RS Pacific Metallic Blue
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 2010, 8:42 am
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Welcome to the world of BMW K1200RS/GT.
it is a great bike.

Grip warmers; Dots = hot and hotter
Not working? check the fuses under the seat. I had a bad switch on mine.

Shop manual; the BMW CD that you can buy on Ebay for $1. and others like Mitchel or Chilton. But get the BMW for sure.

paint, I don't know.

Keep your tire pressure up. 38 to 40 psi on front, 42 psi on rear.

Do not over fill the engine oil. Check level when HOT. The oil must be seen in the bulls eye. Best when at the middle dot or 3/4 full.

These bikes shock wear out at about 25,000 miles. a new set of good after market shocks will really help
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 2010, 6:19 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, Fllash

I played with it some today, mostly cleaning it at bit after all the miles in the rain yesterday. I will check the fuses before I do anything else with the grips.

Pulled off all the luggage. I will be trying to sell the Givi top case and mounting brackets. Pulled the intercom box, (free, anybody want it?) replaced a missing turn signal bulb, small stuff.

What is the best way to support the front when removing the tire? Putting on a new one early next week for the ride over to Daytona.

"Cogito ergo zoom!"
Safety comes before speed. - Check the dictionary.

1999 Sportster "S" Cardinal Red
2000 ZRX1100 Jade Green
2003 K1200RS Pacific Metallic Blue
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 2010, 9:16 pm
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I have a wonderful electric hoist on the garage ceiling.

I have done it many ways;
1. With the bike on the center stand have someone sit on the rear seat and that will tilt it so the front wheel can come off. Then but the axle rod back in and let the front down on a jack stand with a rag on the jack stand so it does not mark the axle rod.

2. remove the plastic belly pan and using a small block of wood under the engine jack up the engine-bike to lift the wheel off the ground. (the block of wood should be large enough to disperse the weight so in does not damage THE ALUMINUM OIL PAN) use jack stand under axle rod.

3. Using a steel drift place under the front shock mount, then place a jack under the steel drift and lift the bike to allow front wheel to come of the ground.use jack stand under axle rod.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 2nd, 2010, 10:11 am
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I have a heavy wooden table type bench that I built for the purpose of elevating my bikes to work on them. The bench is approximately 18" high which places everything on the bikes within reach from top to bottom. I roll (or ride) the bikes up a ramp to get them on the bench. I installed eye-bolts in about 8 or 10 key locations for use as anchors. Two of those eye-bolts are on each side of the rear wheel. With the bike on the bench on the center stand I use a nylon strap through the rear wheel and ratchet the rear wheel down flat to the bench. With a 2" ratchet strap the bike is secure enough I would trust it there forever. No need to prop the front.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 2nd, 2010, 2:03 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoda
I use a nylon strap through the rear wheel and ratchet the rear wheel down flat to the bench. With a 2" ratchet strap the bike is secure enough I would trust it there forever. No need to prop the front.
I use the same technique, but straight on the shop floor where I have a couple good anchors.Much more stable than jacking.But if you jack don't go so high that the weight of the bike is off the centerstand. And take the preload off the rear spring it helps a lot.

Do not forget to tape your wheel before removing the calipers, could save you some ugly nicks.

I wish I could buy/build a bench but my space is very limited.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53

Last edited by h96669; Mar 2nd, 2010 at 2:10 pm.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 2nd, 2010, 6:10 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Largo, FL, USA
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Thank you for the replys all.

I took the belly fairing off and used a block of wood and hydraulic jack. Used a couple of door shims to open the calipers way up so I could get them off the disc without gallig the rims.

New problem today. Check the thread.

Peter

p.s. No I didn't get to ride today...

"Cogito ergo zoom!"
Safety comes before speed. - Check the dictionary.

1999 Sportster "S" Cardinal Red
2000 ZRX1100 Jade Green
2003 K1200RS Pacific Metallic Blue
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