Originally Posted by voxmagna
We could start a new thread on what torque means and how it's interpreted. I've always assumed it only means anything if the threads are cleaned and friction reduced which means oiled/greased. But I now accept the better method of torque tightening which is to torque to a figure then use an angle gauge for say 30 degrees, or whatever the spec says. You generally only meet this on HT bolts like cyl. head etc.
There is already a thread on ADVRider on that I'm following, I'll throw that 10% in there, see what they think. There are some pretty darn good wrenches on that site! And considering lots of home mechanics only use them cheapo deflection type torque wrenches, there is certainly already a margin of error with them.
After so many years of wrenching, many times I don't even use the torque wrench, but recheck after and am usually right on specs, but that's me and DO NOT
recommend that to most home mechanics.You certainly have to install a lot of bolts and nuts of different sizes and torques to get the feel of them first.
But as you mentioned the 30 degree with the angle gauge....one more tool to buy, I'm waiting for the sale. But in the meantime I have to reinstall the clutch on my K1200RS and that is exactly the procedure for the center nut.
I have always gotten away before by carefully marking the 30 degree angle on the bellhousing and using it as the angle gauge. Twice on the K100Rs, more than that on the GS, and everything checked out fine.
However, considering how long it takes to get at them clutches on the K1200RS, I do not want to screw up, so if you see any fault with that procedure, let me know, I'll break down and drive a long way to the tool store....!
P.S. There was no Loctite on my swingarm bearing caps....but the previous "Mechanic" had somehow "forgotten" to tighten down the pivot pin on the left side......amongst other things.....