k1200GT 2004yr Change Brake Fluid - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 2010, 6:04 am Thread Starter
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k1200GT 2004yr Change Brake Fluid

Manual says "remove grubscrew from filler adapter and install a bleeder srew".

after bleeding it says:

remove bleder screw put the grubscrew back.

Question....Why doesn't the system suck in air after bleeding when the grubscrew gets reinstalled?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 2010, 9:39 am
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The little One-Way Valve that is in there behind the grub screw. And when you put a bleeder in there it pushes against it and frees it allowing the fluid to escape.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 2010, 6:21 am Thread Starter
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Thanks! Appreciate the repsonse.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 2010, 9:55 am
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No problem, but careful with that grub screw, if it does not want to come out easy....do not start a big fight with it,you may not win that one.....!

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 2010, 8:16 pm
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I just left my bleeder screw in.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2010, 9:08 pm
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http://www.speedbleeder.com has what you need. Good folks to deal with, too. No vested interest, just a satisfied customer. Make sure you've perused the forums and acquired the correct info on bleeding procedure for these "whizzy" brakes.

Good luck,

GTRider
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2010, 1:08 am
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The HoW has heaps of information regarding brake and clutch fluid change. Go to Hall of Wisdom>Flying Brick>Maintenance>Brake Systems. BMW revised their maintenance schedule and now recommend NOT bleeding the ABS pump unless it has been rebuilt, making the job much easier. Apart from a speed bleeder, no special tools required. A tip- Secure a tube of clear plastic like battery over flow tube to your speed bleeder, and run it into a bottle, preferably with a hole in the lid to accept the tube, so if it is knocked over, no spill occurs. Works well with two people. Good luck, it aint that hard.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2010, 9:03 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingkiwi
The HoW has heaps of information regarding brake and clutch fluid change. Go to Hall of Wisdom>Flying Brick>Maintenance>Brake Systems. BMW revised their maintenance schedule and now recommend NOT bleeding the ABS pump unless it has been rebuilt, making the job much easier.
Now where did you find that Mr Kiwi? I have been following all the ABS threads on ADVRider, there is a lot of them, and the systems are quite similar, lots of those guys have found all sorts of crud in their ABS systems, even after flushing according to the BMW "procedure", which "procedure" they had to change/adapt to better flush theirs.....!

Hum....."Lifetime" Brake Fluid.....or do they have a large stock of them "Made in South Africa" modulators they want to sell.....

BMW is certainly not getting a good reputation these days with their constant changes in maintenance schedules, products to use etc.....and the fact they do not want to give reasons for the changes certainly does not help their credibility.

Give us more details if you have any...you know where to find me, I could go somewhere else.....

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2010, 4:56 am
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Whatever!!! My trusty mechanic in Wellington "said" no need to bleed all the front and rear (three of each) bleeders (just the system filler adapter) as the fresh fluid mixes with, and dilutes the "old" fluid left in the ABS pump. With fluid changed annually, this is "apparently" satisfactory. I feel I am opening a discussion I'd rather not have as there may well be much criticism of what I've been told. However, the information/advice came from a highly regarded BMW authorised dealer, and I have no reason to doubt him - read I trust him I am sure there are expert opinions out there (Dunno why, but Vox springs to mind ) that could give me an excellent reason why all the bleeders need to be bled.

2002 K1200RS Ride #18. Owned from new. Pacific Blue of course. Suspended on Ohlins. 120,000+km
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads
1916 Triumph Type H, Western front, France WW1 - my Grandads
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2010, 5:35 am
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You may have flushing and bleeding confused...flushing is just a way of changing out the fluid by pushing out the old while the new is introduced with no air , and yes it will mix...bleeding is when for what ever reason air gets into the system making it a must do to bleed. What I do is once a year I drain the wheel circuits at the grub screws while adding fluid to the reservoirs. At each oil change I suck out the reservoirs and replace with new..and exercise the abs on sand or wet road...88,000 miles and no problems. All that talk about pumps,suckers,valves, hoses, gauges,bla bla bla is not necessary as long as you keep air out.How often do you flush and bleed your car brake system?...Me? never...250000 miles the fluid is black and works great and use a lot more brake in a car than you will ever use on a bike

Last edited by BAK04GT; May 2nd, 2010 at 5:44 am.
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