Grip Heater Switch - - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2010, 4:01 pm Thread Starter
Sunchaser's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Largo, FL, USA
Posts: 44
Grip Heater Switch

Is there a "Sticky" or "How-to" anywhere for fixing or replacing the switch? I did a search and studied the service manual, but I can't say I understand how the things come apart. Maybe some tips on diagnosing (fuse is good).

Thank you

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Last edited by Sunchaser; Apr 30th, 2010 at 4:32 pm.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2010, 3:56 am
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I don't have the grips switch but I've taken my KRS switch assemblies apart.

I think they probably intend that you replace faulty switches as complete assemblies ($$'s!) but with some jewellers screwdrivers mine came apart. However, it's best to remove the assembly leaving the wires connected, ignition off and work from inside a plastic bag as there are some springs that can jump out at you! You also need to make notes of the order of parts.

From memory I had two problems. 1. They used a very small torx head self tapping screw (mobile phone size!) I hadn't a driver for, but extracted it with a jewellers screwdriver and replaced it with pozi. 2. Fathoming out how the parts went back was a Rubix cube, second only to re-assembling the gas cap.

In my case the wire was badly soldered internally to the switch contact so I fixed that, cleaned the switch and saved a load of $$'s. I haven't looked at whether the heated grips are fed through a relay or not. The grips take quite a bit of current and can fault short so if the switch feeds the grips direct, is not a charred mess and repairable I would advise fitting a relay.

Time to dismantle 10 minutes, time to find lost spring 10 minutes, time to repair 5 minutes, time to figure out the Rubix (no notes) 45 minutes, time to put it back 10 minutes.

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Last edited by voxmagna; May 1st, 2010 at 4:01 am.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2010, 8:28 pm
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Burton, British Columbia, Canada
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Hi Sunchaser.....why do you want heated grips? Summer down there isn't it?

I tried to pull the cover out of mines, only because I wanted to adjust the angle of the handgrips. Looks easy in the "Book", remove one screw and everything should come apart.....not so, I could not even pull the cover out by more than 1/8". After some careful pulling and prying I managed about 1/4", just enough to squeeze a ball end wrench in there and adjust the angle of the grips.

But looking at it carefully then, it seems there is a screwed on clip to hold the wiring in place, with that removed you should be able to pull the cover/switch out. I had no reason to do that on my bike so did not insist.

But like Vox says.....a job for a jeweler. But with the cover pulled out a bit, you should be able to spray some contact cleaner in there, and then lube the switch with some good dielectric lubricant. Largo.....should be some marine suppliers there, always a good place to find such products.

I lived and rode BMWs for years close to a wet marine environment, every couple years I did lube all the switches and connectors with marine products and never had an electrical failure caused by corrosion. This bike I just bought had quite a few connectors showing a little corrosion, so I cleaned and lubed them all and did the switches also as much as I could within the limited space BMW gave us to work with....

Those heated grips are know to fail from the heating wire breaking inside the grip, that is repairable, I've done it before and some of the GS guys on ADVRider are also.I do not think there is a relay dedicated to the heated grips, there should be but.......!

If you have any kind of foam grips over the OEM, they will take a long time to heat up in cold weather, if they ever do.....

Testing them, you may want to find the connector(s) to the grips and see if there is power to them, I'm not home this week to look,but I don't think they go very far into the harness. You could also disconnect the battery and check for draw with an Ampmeter, however you either need a very good one with large capacity for that, or disconnect the headlight, fuel pump etc so as not to put too many Amps through the meter and fry it. Most of the cheaper multimeters are only rated at 10 A or so.

I've seen the Wattage on then grips before, don't remember, but the conversion would be Watts divided by Volts(12)= Amps.

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