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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 2010, 7:38 pm Thread Starter
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brake pad preferences?

Do you have certain brake pads you prefer for your GT? Mine are kind of grabby at low speeds and I alternate between alot of different bikes so I'm looking for suggestions.
Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 2010, 9:26 pm
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I have 2004 and i have used OEM rear pads for replacment. Until last time, I used Galfer. Do they make a mess. the rear wheel is always covered in brake dust.

the fronts are still origanal after 50,000 miles
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 9th, 2010, 9:16 am
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I've always used the softer EBC organic Kevlar pads that make the dust. But you don't get so much expensive rotor wear. I don't find them grabby at all. You might have the harder rotor wearing scintered HH pads in there. If you are a high speed racer/brake a lot type rider, then you probably need the harder HH pads.

Heavy bike, so after a while you learn to ride using the brakes as little as possible and on the final slowdown, otherwise you'll be changing rear pads at less than 5K miles.



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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 9th, 2010, 7:12 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
I've always used the softer EBC organic Kevlar pads that make the dust. But you don't get so much expensive rotor wear. I don't find them grabby at all. You might have the harder rotor wearing scintered HH pads in there. If you are a high speed racer/brake a lot type rider, then you probably need the harder HH pads.

Heavy bike, so after a while you learn to ride using the brakes as little as possible and on the final slowdown, otherwise you'll be changing rear pads at less than 5K miles.
That's always been my philosophy.......it's easy to change pads and clean dust residue....it's a pain to change rotors out.......
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2010, 3:47 am
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....... I forgot to mention that with this heavy bike I use engine braking a lot and only brakes for the final stop and setting up turns. Now that's not going to be fast ricer riding because you need to learn to anticipate stops and turns sooner and work down through the shifts. Saves on tire wear too.

If pads and tires are wearing out fast, then I'd suggest that riders are demanding too much 'spirit' from a very heavy bike and have to accept the cost in pad/rotor wear, gas and tires without complaining too much.

Although I think BMW failed in fitting bike calipers with pads that have very little thickness, only having one rotor and 2 pads on the rear and not designing in air scoops to cool the rotors.



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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2010, 9:47 am
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Yeah those HH.....chewed up a brand new rotor on my R100GS within 10,000 Kms. Expensive mistake....! I don't think they are even recommended on the rear by BMW but don't quote me on that, just something I saw on another forum.

Dust on the wheel......a little wax and it won't stick so no worries there.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2010, 11:03 am
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That's partly right on the HH's but some while back now I discovered something I've never been able to find again. I was on the EBC site looking at rotors and pads thinking I might one day need to change the rear rotor. They listed my early bike year rotor front and rear along with both the Kevlar and HH pad specs. Now, strangely the rotor had a slightly different reference number for the one they matched with the HH pads.

That got me thinking that rotors may have different hardness specs. Unfortunately, when I went back to their site and trawled through the bike rotor info I never saw what I'm sure I saw the first time around which left me puzzled.

I put a pair of aftermarket rotors on the fronts. I've ridden about 8K now with EBC kevlars and they look every bit as though I just put them on, with a zero wear ridge.

The problem with the rears is most riders expect them to stop harder by feel than is theoretically possible. Too much lead foot just grinds down pads and rotors, generates heat and leaves masses of black dust on the rim and pads that only do 4K.



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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 10th, 2010, 6:30 pm
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I was in need of rear pads and unsure, so I put stockers on I am happy with them. Bought the bike with 16K mi on the clock. Rear tire had been replaced and the front tire needed to be. Rear pads were paper thin. Perhaps the previous owner used the rears more.

When I need front pads I will go with the OEMs as well.

I have EBC rotors and HH pads on my Kaw and I don't like the feel. Never have liked the feel of the rotors (I think they suck). The HH pads felt good against the stock rotors, If I had to do it again I would pay the extra and put OEM rotors on. I do agree that the HH pads are hard on rotors, but I had a set of Kevlars on it and they didn't stop nearly as well. Recently I rebuilt the master cylinder and put SS lines on and I am still bleeding the system and trying to get the feel back.

I think (my) RS stops like (words escape me) very (expletive deleted) well. I'm not going to tinker with the combination until I think I can improve on it. Currently, I don't feel that's reasonably possible.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 2010, 11:44 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunchaser
I was in need of rear pads and unsure, so I put stockers on I am happy with them. Bought the bike with 16K mi on the clock. Rear tire had been replaced and the front tire needed to be. Rear pads were paper thin. Perhaps the previous owner used the rears more.
I hardly ever touch the rear brake. So in the joint braking I have found just under 18k on the first rear, 17k on the next and 15k just changed a month ago. The fronts are still original at 53k miles..

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 2010, 2:04 pm
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Originally Posted by NCStephen
I hardly ever touch the rear brake. So in the joint braking I have found just under 18k on the first rear, 17k on the next and 15k just changed a month ago. The fronts are still original at 53k miles..

NCS

Yup, but we don't have servo brakes................and roger that sentiment, I have no need for fresh pads at this juncture.
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